quazi

You better have a 20 amp circuit to handle that load, too!

Custom aquatics has high wattage heaters: https://www.customaquatic.com/estore/control/sale However, I agree with the team, more lower wattage heaters mean better redundancy and less chance of frying or freezing.

It is very easy to install a GFI outlet. If you have ever replaced a light switch, replacing an outlet is similar. Just make sure you turn off the electricity to the outlet I have found the GFI surge protectors to be too fussy and trip too easily. But I have only used one.

GFCI is a requirement for an aquarium circuit. I added a ground probe, and I no longer get any shocks. Worth the couple of bucks, IMHO. Incidentally, toss the heater!

I run the furnace fan 24x7 in the summer. I also have a dehumidifier in the basement. In the winter, the humidifier does not come on, and the humidifier in the furnace DOES come on. The aquariums help, but the winter dry is a mother. Right now I am running about 130 gallons. I am about to add another 120 or so gallons, so we will see what happens. I would not add more duct work before you try more furnace fan time. First things first. Moisture in the duct works should not be a problem. It has not been so for me.

FWIW I have used over-driven NO bulbs. They are not quite as bright, and they need to be replaced within 3 months if you are keeping SPS. But, as you said, you are not keeping corals now, and you are planning LPS, so your situation is more forgiving. In your current situation there is no downside to NOs other than reduced bulb life. That is compensated by the lower cost of the bulbs.

I agree with Steve, spend the extra bucks and go with true VHOs. However, my corals get very unhappy after 8 months of bulb life. After 10 months, their colors are bad and I start losing sps. Since you have a 660, I would go with 2 VHO bulbs and 2 T5 bulbs with reflectors. I have this over my 55, the the color and light intensity is terrific. I use VHO: Actinic and 50/50 T5: 2-50/50s. I recommend hellolights.com for bulbs.

I have a starry or snow flake blennie that takes hunk out of my blue lined rabbit fish on a regular basis. The blennie makes a nice round hole. These blennies are supposed to be peaceful. Not this guy! What fish are in your tank?

This is the best online deal I have seen - cheap shipping! Thanks Jason, I should have gone to ebay first.

The wonders of having children is the magic of "lost stuff". Apparently, my RO filter wrench was cool. Now it is MIA. Any idea where I can buy one locally? I tried Lowes. I do have a strap wrench, so I can change my DI. But, I would like to find the plastic wrench again.

For those interested in how much electricity you new tank will gobble up, I have developed an excel file for estimating the cost. It does not take into account the house heating savings and cooling costs. Since I cannot attach this file, please contact me for a copy @ quazimeto @ aol.com I just generated this to estimate my monthly costs for my 120 gallon tank. It looks like it will add at least $42/month to my electricity bill. Upgrading my primary pump will add $15 a month. I am considering what I want to do about that. It changes a lot of construction parameters.

This reminds me of the tulip speculation of the 1600 in Holland. Its a bubble, and it will collapse as supply (or retreat) comes in line with demand.

My bill is way more in the summer and less in the winter. So, I averaged. BUT - I am about to start up a 120 with 500 watts of HD. I expect my bill to go up $30/month. Based on what I have heard, I may be optimistic.

I use 2 vhos (12,000k and Actinic) along with 2 12,000k T5s on my 55. All are UVL. Hellolights.com is my favorite source. I just found out about the 75.25 by your post.

Brian, thanks for the information. I have seen the unions at HD. I was not sure they would withstand pressure. "4- i'm not aware of a Y in standard PVC plumbing - this is more common in DWV for sewer work. A Tee is standard for splitting. You likely want to run 1" or 1.5" plumbing from the mag 18 up to your connection point, then use a Tee to split to your 2x 3/4" tank inputs. " Brian, why is that a good idea when the output from the Mag18 is 3/4? It seems like that would cause more head loss, as it would have to push more water. The calculator shows I am close on the mag 18's capability to push water. But I should be OK. Here is where I found the "WYES": http://www.flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi?cart...VC-Wyes_TrueWye

I am plumbing my 120 reef ready to a 55 sump and a 55 'fuge in the basement. I have a couple of questions: - Does anyone have "y" 3/4 inch connectors in this area? I have seen them on the Internet, but I would like to find a local supplier. - Is there anyway to disconnect pressure handling PVC pipe in line? I am looking @ gluing every thing. But, that means if I move anything or change my mind on setup, I have to saw and toss a lot of infrastructure. - Can I use hard PVC for the water delivery? I have heard about flex, but I have not seen it at HD or Lowes. I have not asked for help there, yet. So, maybe it is there, and I am not aware of it. But the hard PVC is cheap, and with 45 degree connectors, it seems like a OK way to go. I just don't like the ideal of cutting pipe every time I want to do something. - I have been looking for examples of plumbing layouts. I have not seen what I am looking for, can anyone recommend a thread? - My tank has 2-1" drains and 2- 3/4" inputs. I am planning to use a Mag 18 to pump up from the basement. Any thoughts, ideas or criticisms are welcome. Mike

What are the ages of your light bubls? I have had similar problems with old bulbs.

I am looking for a cup or two of sand to beef up the critters of my fuge. I need spaghetti worms and mysids in particular. Anyone in the Sterling/Reston/Herndon/Ashburn area have any? Thanks! Mike

Too bad you are not closer to me. I would like some for my 'fuge. They disappeared from my system a long time ago.

This is very interesting. My tanks are in the basement with a gas water heater and furnace. They are both vented. However, I am constantly fighting low pH, though not as low as Phisigs. I will try the out side air routing and see what happenes.

Have you checked with Pristine Aquariums?

Here is my high tech device: It works great!

Some one didn't get the bribe they were after. That is just the cost of doing business in Russia.

Thanks!

The Danner site give no indication on the distinction. Does anyone have an idea? I need to order a one or the other ASAP. I need a in sump sump pump that will pump up 10 feet.