michaelg

Eddie, The place with the most detail on this would be the breeders registry. Frank Marini is da man. ( I know frank pretty well and can get him up here sometime if the group would like him as a speaker) http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/apr2002/breeder.htm

Other than giving a good wipe down, what are suggestions on pump care for packing in storage for a while? I have had impellars freeze in the body before, so want to avoid that. Just fresh water rinse? Or thorough water and vinegar as well? Alchohol rinse to chase the water after? Other suggestions for cleaning up equipment appreciated. Never been through this process before. Michael

You are probably close to being done with a cycle. bubbles are probably o2 from photosynthesis. Cool on all the hitchhikers you scored! Sounds like the tank is off to a real healthy start. I would just check ammonia and nitrites, then start adding some snails. I would test about 6 of them to start.

Very interesting. Thanks for that info erik. There have been times I have thought about bumping up to a 100gpd membrane, but will just stick with my 75 gpd if that is the case.

I would personally not spend the 200 for one that an aquarium mfg slapped their label on and way overinflated the price on. The guts are no better no worse than the one you are looking at- all pretty much the same. The e-bay unit has several very useful things= a reverse flow, which some people do everymonth to "rinse" the membrane (extends the life on it), and is fully setup for autoshutoff if you desire that option. Only thing it doesn't have (or maybe does and I didn't notice it) is a pressure guage (which is by no means critical). Clear canister is not a name brand- on the one you show, the canisters= housings= are white. Other ones are clear so you can see the internals. Useful for the first one especially as it gives a good reminder when it is time to change them out. FWIW, the units are standardized by and large so you can get the replacement filters anywhere. Michael

I personally like clear cannisters, and to have a canister for the DI. Get a tds meter if you don't get clear (and a good idea even if you do). I reconfigured mine so I can use a refillable DI resin chamber. Other wise, if you can get it for $70, it is a great price. Check on shipping price and make sure it isn't outrageous (some of the e-bay places would pull that crap). Also send an e-mail and ask the mfg of the RO membrane (you want a DOW filmtec membrane) I have never used the "polishing" carbon filter. Their prices on replacement filters is pretty good as well. I get mine from buckeyfieldsupply.com (might check there as well). Air water ice has a good rep from what I remember- but I totally did the e0bay buy myself. a 100gpd is a good amount of water. Finally- if you want to hook it up to a fauctet, then you will need a screw in piece- the saddle valve go directly into your copper pipe.

Tim, if you don't go and want some live rock, I will have some very well cured and established live rock available as soon as next weekend (or earlier). I am over in silver spring/rockville area. Michael

real tough to have anything but an anenome and clowns in a tank that size without it getting wompped by the tentacles.

if the rock was cured, you probably only saw a small spike. good sign. Wait a week then OK to start adding clean up crew. I would wait a month or 2 more though before adding fish. Give the fauna a chance to get good and established.

a round tapered file would work as well. safer if you don't want to drain the tank. Else you could drain partly and drill through in spots to open it up. Are you sure the pipe will take the increased flow?

I like salifert a lot. I have used lamotte, but not worth it IMO. From when we tested a bunch a couple years back, all of them gave equivalent readings on alk. calcium was all over the map. Michael

www.reefstore.com If you work at 495 and 50, you could easily go after work. Off Braddock Road exit which I think is one or 2 more stops down. Defiantely call though to find out the day the rock comes in.

Maybe try a few good water changes as well, and run carbon for a couple weeks? When all else fails this is a good measure to take. I have heard that there exists a zoanthid eating nudibranch, but outside of hearing of its existence, I know nothing about it.

http://www.myreefcreations.com/diy.htm Or you can see if Chip aka flowerseller can make a set for you.

Not sure the level of edu required but might be worth looking into for some of our younger members. "The Perry Institute for Marine Science (PIMS) currently has an opening for a Marine Science Intern for the period April-June, 2005 at PIMS research facility on Lee Stocking Island, Exuma, Bahamas. PIMS is also accepting applications for Summer 2005 (June-August). Information on the Perry Fellows Marine Science Internship program, including application instructions and materials, can be found on the PIMS website: www.perryinstitute.org <http://www.perryinstitute.org/> " Thanks, Kevin Kevin L. Buch Assistant Science Director Perry Institute for Marine Science Lee Stocking Island, The Bahamas T: (561)741-0192 ext. 239 F: (561)741-0193 E. kbuch@perryinstitute.org <http://www.cmrc.org/> www.perryinstitute.org Business Address: Perry Institute for Marine Science 100 N. US Highway 1, Suite 202 Jupiter, FL 33477-5112

Next meeting will be mid April- early May. STill finalizing a date with speaker. When Mac comes he brings a ton of stuff, which usually is discounted for the meeting. He will also bring any special requests you might have. One option is to hit The reeftank when they get a fresh shipment of liverock in. Just over the river, and a store you will want to visit on occassion as they have some of the best coral around IMO (and coolest staff). Their price is very competetive as well. Michael

I think you will be very very happy with it. You might be able to meet either him or his son Zac at BWI, which would shave a considerable amount off the drive. But if you drive out, you can hand pick it. Or he can probably ship it ground and have it arrive in 1-2 days (and save a lot on shipping).

You want some sand from Lee's tank and others as well. Even pickup a lb from the reef tank, and ask for a scoop of grundge from the bottom of the live rock vats. the bag of araglive has bacteria, but that's it. You need worms and bugs, and these will come from an established tank. This is critical to have a "healthy" sandbed and avoid clumping. Michael

I think your best bet is to remove the top. Cut through with a bansaw or similar. Then attach a new top. You can pickup matched acyrlic flanges from myreefcreation.com possible lifereef, and some other sites that are escaping me at the moment. If you get the top straight, gluing it on will be easy. The top is flat straight, so just drill holes and pickup a threading tap at home depot (they cost about $5).

Yes, get the add on for the DI. Well worth the expense IMO. I prefer color changing, but if you have and use a TDS meter on your output, then you can save yourself a couple $$.

I second using buckeyfield supply. I have always been happy with what I have gotten there and the prices are great. For DI, you can get a refillable one to save a few bucks. Michael

very interesting to hear that. I saw first hand a pair of leukokranis beat up on a cbb.

you said the anenome isn't doing well. Are you hand feeding it?

it is cyanobacter. A filamentous type algae. Tends to pop up when there is some sort of increase in nutrients or with old bulbs. Bulbs should not be shot yet (though what kind and type are they), so maybe DI resin from filtering water? Or what do you use to filter your tap water? Can be seasonal as well. Lots of people had it pop up in the fall over in VA. You can manually remove it. Seems to cycle though and not too much of a concern unless it really strongly blooms. Michael

Craig, if you are thinking of mixing cbb's in with host anenomes/clowns, it is a recipe for disaster. Clowns are butterflies are mortal enemies.