Boret's 92g Corner Tank.

[Boret]

Hi there.

 

A few weeks back I acquired a 92 gallon corner glass tank and stand. The tank measures 34" from the corner to the front and it is a perfect 1/4 circle.

 

So far I tested the tank for leaks, sanded and repainted the stand I have been acquiring misc. pieces of equipment.

I also built a canopy for it.

It is my first attempt at building something and it is definitely tough to do.

 

 

 

I took the canopy down and took it to a friend's house where he has a router and a table saw to improve the woodwork and finish the sides. It is a first attempt and will probably work further on it, but at least I got to play with the powertools and I have a better idea of what I want for the canopy.

 

I also have the following items for the build:

 

1" Sea Swirl

1 SCWD

1 Little Giant 4-MDQX-SC 1325 GPH, 1/10 HP

4 way Oceans Motions

 

My first design brainstorm has to be the whole close loop design. I have looked at Dan's 54 corner build to get some ideas, I am also following other builds (Carl's, tbittner's, davelin's, etc...). I like the uncluttered look of the close loop but this is my main dilema:

 

Option 1 - Drill everything (2 overflow holes [one for CL the other to Sump] and 4 returns, 2 mid tank and 2 close to the bottom close to the front glass)

 

 

 

Option 2 - Only drill the Overflows and the 2 mid returns from CL, and run 2 1" PVC pipes going in from the corner down to the bottom of the tank and run them all the way to the front.

 

 

I am afraid that drilling very low in the side of the tank is asking for trouble. If one of the bulkheads was to fail/crack/leak it will completely empty the tank with no option whatsoever to stop it. If that happens to the mid holes its only half the water volume.

 

On the other hand, by running so much pipe I will loose water pressure and might get crappy flow after all the effort.

 

 

Second close loop brainstorm.

 

The tank will sit with one of the side to a wall with my small wet room / furnace room behind it.

The other side will be against the stairs going up from the basement.

I want to make most of the holes in the side facing the wall. I can go strait from the bulkhead into the little wet room. That means 2 holes in one side (1overflow and 1 of the mid returns from CL) and the other 4 in the other side.

This way I can run the pipes straight to the back room and avoid clutter on the stairs side. I can also put the tank flushed against the wall.

 

Will too many holes in one side mess with the integrity if the glass... as opposed to 3 and 3....? Or going with the pipe for Return 3 and 4?

 

The return will go from the sump into the Sea Swirl on the top at the far corner.

 

I think I will get tons of water movement this way and I will be able to avoid using any powerheads inside the tank.

 

LIGHTING

 

I have limited space in the canopy. So my first idea is to use a single 400W MH and 2-3 24" VHOs to supplement actinic.

Something like this:

 

 

I might be able to fit 2 of the Lumen Bright minis, but I can't tell for sure and that will push the VHO too far to the side so I don't know how much light I will get out of them

 

I have also red somewhere that the 400W doesn't add that much light over the 250W.

 

If I go 14 or 20k I might not need the VHOs, but I do like the possibility of having a bit of the dusk-dawn effect by doing From OFF tot VHO - then VHO and MH - then VHO - and OFF again.

 

Also, I want a completely close canopy, with only maybe a fan towards the wall side... and run some vent tube into the wetroom. The basement is also my office and a media room, so I don't want too much light flooding from the canopy (none at all if possible) and I want to keep noise to a min.

 

After thinking about the design I really think an inline chiller might be the way to go to avoid all those noisy fans.

 

I will keep adding design ideas, diagrams and pictures. This is just the beginning.

Any feedback, recommendations, opinions, criticisms, etc... are very welcome!!

 

Boret

[tbittner]

Do you know if the bottom is tempered?

 

With a closed loop, you won't lose hardly any pressure by running the pipes up and over. You'll only have a few inches of head pressure. The water in the tank is going to keep the pipes full and the pump is going to add velocity to it. So that wouldn't be a concern.

 

Your concern about having holes that close to the bottom is a very valid concern and a good thought. Are you going to have sand in the bottom? The holes need to be at least 6" above the dept of the sand. Otherwise, the flow will dig a crevice in the sand. I had a lot of success with using wye locline fittings and attaching two nozzles to one return. I was able to really spread the flow around that way. If you use those, you may not have to run any pipes inside the tank.

 

For the lighting, how deep is your tank? What kind of corals do you want to keep?

[Boret]

Hi tbittner, thx for the reply.

 

The bottom is tempered. The tank is 25" deep. (34" on the sides, 25" top to bottom, and 55" bow front)

 

Loc-Line is definitely the route I want to go.

 

 

Keep in mind that the holes I draw are just a draft version, and they are in the general vicinity of where their final placement will be.

 

I want to build a mixed reef tank, with SPS, LPS, ricordeas, zoas and clams, and a few reef safe fish.

Most of the inspiration comes from ROBZ's old tank:

 

LINK

 

 

I am thinking 2-3 inches sand bed, with maybe a Remote Deep Sand Bed container hidden somewhere.

Based on this rough diagram:

 

 

I want the CL Return 3 and 4 to be pointing, from the front towards the corals and upwards.

Then CL Return 1 and 2 to go thru the Rock structure and point towards the front (Not completely sure about those yet).

 

Then have the Sea Swirl move water on the top from the Return Pump on the Sump. And use one of the Overflows to feed the CL pump.

 

My guess is that Overflow 2 will be high up in the tank so I create surface tension. Then Overflow 1 (maybe I should call it CL Feed) could be slightly lower and behind rocks.

 

I have no use for the SCWD yet... but I will figure something out. All things considered, the main objective is to eliminate all the powerheads from main display, while keeping a very generous flow.

I want to create a carpet of ricordias and zoas (credit to ROBZ for that idea) so I probably want medium to gentle flow on the bottom.

 

The only nonflow area that I can see is the corner at the bottom. Maybe I could tee off a locline off the CL Return 3 PVC pipe to go upwards in that corner....

 

I saw what Dan did on his 54, with a weis for the overflow, and a custom glass made receptacle. That however, will eliminate the possibility to place the tank close to the corner. Nonetheless, I love the design of his CL and I am guiding myself on that.

 

This is a picture of my current tank (a few months old picture) it might give you an idea of where I want to place the corner tank.

 

Edited May 11, 2008 by Boret

[tbittner]

I'm assuming the one side will be up against the steps? Are you sure you want pipes running between the tank and the steps?

[Boret]

I don't want the pipes running on the side against the step, but I will need at least one hole for one of the returns, and having all of the holes in just one side seemed too much for the integrity of the glass.

 

I was thinking that I could build an enclosure for it, making the canopy extend on that side about 5 inches, bring a piece of wood down from the canopy to the floor. Just an idea though... I haven't given it much thought.

 

I'm assuming the one side will be up against the steps? Are you sure you want pipes running between the tank and the steps?

[jamesbuf]

One solution is to not drill a second hole for the close loop feed. On his 54gal corner, Dan has a single 1.5" or 2" pvc pipe placed in the rear corner, which then pulled a 180 degree turn over the side of the tank and feed into the CL pump on the floor. He put quite a few slits in the pipe and it never clogged. I was there to help him move the liverock out of that tank and saw the condition of the CL feed. It didn't look too bad and wasn't really clogged. I never even noticed it in the tank because it was behind the rock work. I remember thinking that I would consider doing this in the future in lieu if drilling a tank for a CL. You might want to check with Dan to find out the size of the PVC he used, or if he ever had any problems with it.

 

 

An alternative would be to sell the Oceans Motion on here or RC, and use that towards a set of Tunzes. Even if you don't like the look of powerheads, the nanostreams are really not that bad looking and are quite small. My four 6055s didn't look that bad in my 92 did they? To save money, you could use the Sea Swirl for your main feed which will offer randomized flow, then you could just add a couple/few 6045s for added flow. Just an idea.

 

Either way, keep us posted. Tagging along........

[Boret]

Thanks for the advice James! Very appreciated when it comes from a fellow 92 corner tank owner with a very good looking tank!!! I do hope you keep tagging along and will keep throwing advice my way.

 

As far as powerheads.... I really like the idea of the close loop. I also want to eliminate the powerheads from the water to alleviate temperature issues. If possible I would like to avoid using a chiller, but with such a closed canopy I might have to go that route anyway... I really don't want to have 4-5 fans on all the time.

Even if I sell the OM and the Little Giant I will be short from the price tag of the Tunzes and a controller.... I think it can be done...

 

I do like the idea you mentioned about the pipe in the corner.

 

Do you think I can get away with just 1 overflow hole? Maybe a 2" one?

 

That way I won't have any pipes on the stairs side.

[jamesbuf]

I would make the overflow to the sump as big as possible. One drawback of the reef ready 92gal is that the overflow is only rated for 400gph. This according to the All-Glass website. I get around this by having both the holes (behind the RR panel) as exits to my sump, then pump the water back into my tank through the Sea Swirl. Even with this setup, I'm estimating that I could pump maybe 700-800pgh maximum. I forget what the size ratings are for the different sized overflows, but you'd be able to get way past 800gph if you used a 2" overflow. Now if you go drilling a 2" hole in the side glass, I'd be weary about putting many other holes in the glass though.

 

Ever consider getting enough turnover through your sump so you could just use the Oceans Motion as your main return? You could drill two 1.5" holes and get quite a bit of flow into your sump. Then you'd only need to drill two holes.

[jamesbuf]

You might also want to consider getting just one of the Vortech Pumps. The motor is on the outside so there is no heat transfer. One pump would be more than sufficient for a 92gal. Its also very small footprint and very easy to clean. These also have several wavemaking capabilities built in so there is no controller to buy. They are also wireless, so if you ever want to add another, there aren't a bunch of wires going all over the place like the Tunzes. There is someone on CMAS selling them for $360 brand new. $60 off new and the guy states they are new in box, so you should be able to register them and take advantage of the warranty. I have one is you'd like to try it out for a week or two. You can put it in your 55gal to see the crazy amount of flow these put out, and also to see the small footprint. I could bring it to the A1 social if you'd like to try it out.

 

Ok, enough with trying to talk you into powerheads. Just trying to give you all the options out there.

[tbittner]

These pumps will create a suction on the feed side so you really don't need a hole larger than the input size on the pump. Where it's a good idea to have more than one input is in case one gets clogged, then the other one can feed the pump and it won't burn up. It also spreads the suction around a bit so fish don't get sucked up against the screen.

 

With that though, I'd drill the tank for two 1.5" bulkheads in case I would want to upgrade the pump to something more powerful. If you know that you won't upgrade the pump then two 1" bulkheads will be plenty to feed that pump.

 

What are your preliminary thoughts about getting flow to the sump? I also like James idea of getting all the flow you'd ever want through the sump. You could do it with the Little Giant and a couple LifeReef overflow boxes. You wouldn't need to drill the tank at all.

 

I personally don't like the full size overflow boxes, with the holes drilled in the bottom. They take up so much room. You could certainly drill holes towards the top and install skimmer boxes for the holes, and not use siphon boxes. That way all the room in the tank under the skimmer box is available for LR, fish swim room, etc.

 

Sorry for the ramble....

[Boret]

No ramble at all!! This is really helping.

 

It seems James has some stock on powerheads!!!

 

Joking aside.... I agree, the powerhead is the easiest way... but I do like the challenge!! he he he

The close loop seems an interesting idea and I do have the equipment for it. If the drilling doesn't work I will get a new tank....

As far as the overflow. I currently have an overflow box. It hasn't failed in 6-7 months of operation but I don't like it. It is a weak point, it is noisy and takes a lot of real state. For sure I am drilling the holes for the overflow.

I have drilled several small tanks successfully. I am very tempted to even drill my current 55 and eliminate the overflow box. I just don't want to go through the trouble of emptying the tank, and I don't feel comfortable drilling with a half filled tank.

 

It is the close loop the one that seems more challenging. Dan drilled the crap out of a 54 and it worked for him. I am guessing that if a 54 can take it a 92 should.... nonetheless, all this feedback has made me rethink a few things.

 

For example, I do like James idea to run a pipe from the corner to feed the CL pump.

I could also run pipes for all the CL returns. If I am creative with the rock I could "hide" most of the PVC. That will eliminate the need to drill any more holes than the one needed for the overflow/s.

 

Or I could use PVC for both the CL pump and 2 returns and just do holes for the 2 other returns. That way it will only be 3 holes min and 4 max if I do 2 overflows.

 

An advantage I see of running 2 overflow is that I can service equipment without losing water movement. I could have one overflow feed a UV sterilizer and another one feed a media reactor and add a chiller in the CL. Or maybe the UV in the CL and the other 2 in the overflows......

 

Well, I guess I am adding my 3rd brainstorm item.... placement of devices!!

 

Circuit 1 -- Tank > Overflow 1 > True Union Ball Valve > UV Sterilizer (if I get one) > Manifold A (2 to 1) > Skimmer > Sump > Return pump > Sea Swirl > Tank

 

Circuit 2 -- Tank > Overflow 2 > True Union Ball Valve > Chiller > Manifold A (2 to 1) > Skimmer > Sump > Return pump > Sea Swirl > Tank

 

Circuit 3 -- Tank > CL Feed > True Union Ball Valve > CL Pump > 4 Way Oceans Motions > 4 pipes into 4 CL returns with 4 regular Union Ball Valves

 

Does this make sense?

[funnyguy911]

looking great....you have to show me when you are done. Oh yeah I still have not had a chance to hook up the adapter for the ph monitor.

[Boret]

Man... thats tough, considering it takes 30 seconds!!! LOL

You are more than welcome to come over. I am still in the planning stage. From what I see and read... it does take a while if you want to do it properly.

[tbittner]

I don't know if you have a chiller yet, but I bought a Teco around 9 months ago. It works great! It also has a heater and UV built into it. All for the price of other chillers.

[Boret]

I don't know if you have a chiller yet, but I bought a Teco around 9 months ago. It works great! It also has a heater and UV built into it. All for the price of other chillers.

 

Where did you get it from?

 

I found the Pacific Coast CL-450 1/6 HP Inline Chiller NEW for $418. Seemed like a good deal.

 

With the Teco I like the fact that you get Heater and UV altogether... On the other hand, sometimes mixing too many capabilities in one device might not be the way to go.... if 1 fails you have to take everything down.

 

I also like the fact that the Teco has a lower dB output, making it quieter than the Pacific Coast.

Maybe we should do a GB for these...

[jamesbuf]

So what's the verdict regarding flow? Any other updates?

[Boret]

I drilled the Overflow.... so far so good.

 

I think I will use pipe for the front CL and maybe holes for middle ones and the CL intake.

I will post pics soon.

[davelin315]

Hey Boret, going back to your lighting scheme, some 250s put out more light than 400s, but that's when you're looking at 250 DE with the right bulb/ballast/reflector combination versus the typical 400 SE with less than optimal bulb/ballast/reflector combinations. The 400W HQI DE bulbs apparently leave a lot to be desired right now as they have not been tweaked enough, but the last time I researched those was almost 2 years or more ago. I honestly think that 400W may be more than you need on your tank... it doesn't have the height that typically would call for a larger wattage bulb and it's not such a large tank that you couldn't get good, or at least decent, coverage from a great reflector with a 250W bulb.

 

Also, as far as the supplemental lighting, take a look at different tanks before adding supplementation. As much as I love the color of my tank and the bulbs, I am actually considering adding on supplemental daylight coloration! I think that this would give some of my corals a bit more in the way of warmer colors, but certainly don't want to switch out from the great coloration I get already from the 20,000K bulbs I run.

[Boret]

Hey Boret, going back to your lighting scheme, some 250s put out more light than 400s, but that's when you're looking at 250 DE with the right bulb/ballast/reflector combination versus the typical 400 SE with less than optimal bulb/ballast/reflector combinations. The 400W HQI DE bulbs apparently leave a lot to be desired right now as they have not been tweaked enough, but the last time I researched those was almost 2 years or more ago. I honestly think that 400W may be more than you need on your tank... it doesn't have the height that typically would call for a larger wattage bulb and it's not such a large tank that you couldn't get good, or at least decent, coverage from a great reflector with a 250W bulb.

 

Also, as far as the supplemental lighting, take a look at different tanks before adding supplementation. As much as I love the color of my tank and the bulbs, I am actually considering adding on supplemental daylight coloration! I think that this would give some of my corals a bit more in the way of warmer colors, but certainly don't want to switch out from the great coloration I get already from the 20,000K bulbs I run.

 

My biggest impediment is actual real state inside of the canopy. I am very limited in there... so far I am pretty incline to do the Lumenbright Mini... I have a ballast for 400W, so that was one of the reasons to go in that direction. I was thinking 1 SE 400w MH 14,000, and 2 24" VHO Actinics. Also, the reason to go SE is to save on the glass you need when you do DE. On the other hand, I have read some of those reviews you are talking about, and the right Ballast+250w MH can yeild close to 400W with excellent par...

I like the idea of MH and VHOs because it allows you to mimic sunrise-sundown.

 

Still a work in progress... I am taking my sweet time!

 

At least now I have a Reef Ready Tank LOL

 

[Boret]

Latest update. After a trip to Lowes to get a bunch of PVC fittings I came up with a draft design for the close loop. All made with 3/4" pipe. The overflow is 1&1/2".

 

Here is a picture of it:

 

 

I plan to use "Life Framing" to cover all the pipes in the back. As I been reading on Marine Fish magazine you can build a pretty solid structure out of PVC, make holes in the PVC structure and "hang" pieces of rock that have been drilled and have a smaller piece of 1/2" PVC epoxy in the drilled hole and attached to the main PVC structure....

Anyway... the desired end result is to be able to cover all the pvc with rock.

At this point I am only missing the intake hole for the Close Loop, which I might place either about 7 inches to the right of the Overflow hole, or I might go with Jamesbuf's recommendation and just use PVC for the intake as well. Still thinking about it... already looks like a lot of PVC.

 

I also want to add Loc-Line to the ends of these PVC pipes to have some flexibility on the direction of the water flow. I have Drum A on the Oceans Motions which means Output1, then 2, then 3, then 4 and back to one. There are other drums that allow you to do combinations of 1+2, then 3+4, but I am happy with the current drum.

 

I still have not decided the order. Suggestions are very welcome.

 

Also.... should I drill small holes in the PVC to get some minor current behind the rock?

Or, maybe add a T and add a 1/2" pipe behind the rock?

I am going to mess a bit with Photoshop to come up with a initial rock design.

[jamesbuf]

Looks pretty freaking sweet. I've seen people use the purple primer on the PVC too to help make it blend in better. Another option is to use that rubber looking spray "gunk" that I've seen people use on the back wall of their aquarium. The aquapod at the register at Aquarium One has it on the back, and it looks pretty good. After a few weeks of being in the tank, it starts to accumulate coraline and other life on it, so it blends in really well. They sell cans of the stuff at Aquarium One also.

 

 

I'm still up in the air on lighting in my 92gal corner. I got Dan's old light setup from his 54gal corner, and he got amazing growth in his tank. He also had most of his corals in the middle of the tank right under the bulb. Since I reaquascaped, I have my rockwork around the edges now so that there is alot of swimming room for my fish. Bad news is that my corals don't seem to like being so far away from the bulb. I'm considering either upgrading to a 400W bulb, or replacing my PFO parallel reflector with either a Lumenbright mini or a Lumenarc mini. Probably go with the Lumenbright mini since its a tad larger. Still debating though. If I were in your position Boret, I'd definitely get the mini. By the way, you can fit two 36" VHOs across the front of the tank. Thats how I've got mine setup.

[tbittner]

WOW! That looks awesome! Excellent job!

 

I prefer the locline flare nozzles. They generate a wider flow pattern. With those, I doubt if you'll need to drill any holes in the pipe.

 

I've seen pics of tanks where they used that foam. It really gives it a nice, natural look.

[Carl]

Looking good!

 

Let me know if you find a local store to get locline...

or if you'll be ordering some oneline.

 

-Carl

[dschflier]

Looks really nice Salvador,

 

I think I have a VHO ballast which I forgot to bring over. It can run 2x 24" VHOs. I think your plumbing looks great.

[Boret]

Looking good!

 

Let me know if you find a local store to get locline...

or if you'll be ordering some oneline.

 

-Carl

 

I think BRK has it... I did also find this place [www.dtpetsupplies.com] online. Have anyone heard of them or done any business with them?

 

Looks really nice Salvador,

 

I think I have a VHO ballast which I forgot to bring over. It can run 2x 24" VHOs. I think your plumbing looks great.

What type of Ballast is it? With the VHOs it will look great!

 

I also measured where those pipes will meet the wall and I am clear to drill thru no studs or cables, perfect location!