Kessil a360we question

[1bitereefer]

I just have a question regarding the color you guys run on your Kessils. I have the color topping out at 40 now as I prefer the blue look. But I’m wondering if I should go more white. My colors have just been moved to my new tank, which is why they aren’t opening all the way. But I was running 50 color before. Just wondering if that could be why. Thanks for the info. 

[DFR]

I had mine ramp up to 45% color at peak with no issues.  40 is also okay and will help deter algae growth.  My bet is that your corals are just getting used to the new tank.

[madweazl]

Something else to consider is the PAR of the A360WE maxes out at around 60% color and when you move up or down from that setting, PAR drops off quite a bit. Is the light mounted at the same height it was on the previous setup? A one inch difference makes a huge difference in PAR as well (.e.g. moving it from five inch above to eight inches above would reduce PAR by approximately 50%). 

 

And for what it's worth, I've run them up to 85% color and noticed no difference in algae growth. 

Edited January 26, 2019 by madweazl

[DFR]

ILol seems like we have differences when it comes to kessil.  The additional color spectrums used by kessil as the color percentage increases directly correlate to the wavelength that algae uses.  So by increasing the color say from 40 to 85 would increase the usable light available for algae (and even Cyanobacteria).  I even saw this in reverse early last year when I had a cyano bloom.  Changing the max color from 60 to leaving the color steadily at 0 had a major impact on decreased cyano growth during the day.

Edited January 26, 2019 by DFR
Fixed autocorrect

[madweazl]

The spectrum of the A360WE changes very little from 0% to 100% color. Your nutrient levels have a much larger impact on nuisance algae (and cyano) than light. Almost all quality light sources will produce a spectrum capable of growing algae (and your coral since they basically have the same requirements in this regard).  I have an Aquablue Special and a Purple+ over my tank that produce a lot greens, yellows, and reds (I'm guessing what you're concerned about in regard to algae growth). 

[DFR]

Going from 0-100 is enough that our eyes can detect so I wouldn’t call that”very little”.  And considering that neither my feeding habits, filtration, nor bioload was changed (and may I add that my nitrate and phosphate were also unchanged at almost undetectable) when I changed color to 0 and favorable results were obtained with cyano, that entire comment is flawed.

[madweazl]

Eyes are a terrible judge for "measuring" lighting. Small amounts (e.g.  10%) of green and red will "whiten" a blue appearance. 

 

At Bluest Setting (0% color):



Bluest
UV-A 2.8%
Violet 13.0%
Blue 62.7%
Green-Blue 10.3%
Blue-Green 7.1%
Green 1.5%
Yellow-Green 0.9%
Yellow 0.2%
Orange 0.3%
Red 1.2%

 

Here are the measurements at 60% (1 o'clock on the dial):



UV-A 1.1%
Violet 5.6%
Blue 44.7%
Green-Blue 9.5%
Blue-Green 8.2%
Green 5.0%
Yellow-Green 10.8%
Yellow 2.5%
Orange 4.1%
Red 8.5% 

Whitest Setting (100% color):



Whitest
UV-A 0.9%
Violet 4.5%
Blue 40.7%
Green-Blue 10.0%
Blue-Green 8.7%
Green 5.6%
Yellow-Green 12.3%
Yellow 2.8%
Orange 4.8%
Red 9.7%
 

Source: Dana Riddle

[newbie2014]

Check out BRSTV on Youtube. They tested Kessil 360WE a couple of times. They showed that Kessil Logic allowes you to vary the overall color of the light, but the core spectrum changes very little. Like madweazl alluded to, our eyes are a lot more perceptive to "whiter" colors.     

[DFR]

The point I was trying to make and @madweazl thanks for supporting my statement... increasing the color percentage increases USABLE light for the algae.  And incase you were unable to translate the results.  Kessil holds its core spectrum throughout the color intensity and ADDS those same “wavelengths that algae uses” as the color percentage is increased; because this produces a more white light (the inclusion of more wavelengths).