Joel & Denise's 90G Reef Build

[joro]

My wife and I are getting back into the hobby and we've decided to re-enter with a 90G reef ready tank which we were able to source from another WAMAS member!  We've been slowly accumulating all of the equipment to begin the build and today received most of what's needed.  There will be a few trips to Lowe's the next few days to begin the plumbing (including the installation of RODI unit) and wanted to share the build with you all and get your opinions/advice as we progress! Current equipment includes:

• 90g Glass RR Tank
• Trigger Systems Emerald 34 Sump (31 Gallons)
• Reef Octopus Classic 152 - S Protein Skimmer
• 2x Tunze Turbelle Stream 6065 Pumps
• Reef Octopus Diablo 5500 Controllable DC Pump
• Reefbreaders Photon 48” LED Light

I've included a few staring photos in the replies below and we're looking forward to the journey with you all!

 

~ Joel

Edited April 16, 2016 by joro

[joro]

First project earlier this week was getting the old fans/fittings removed which were setup for a MH/CF combo light.  Turned out pretty good and looks clean when you're walking down the stairs to our basement which is where the tank will live for now!

[joro]

Bulk of gear arrived today, including the sump - time to pay Lowe's a visit to begin plumbing!

Edited April 16, 2016 by joro

[flooddc]

Great re-start! Look like you got some nice equipment there!

To save yourself multiple trips to lowes, make a list and buy extra. You can always return the unused parts. Also, when plumbing your tank try to avoid using 90 degree elbows when possible.

[joro]

Great re-start! Look like you got some nice equipment there!

To save yourself multiple trips to lowes, make a list and buy extra. You can always return the unused parts. Also, when plumbing your tank try to avoid using 90 degree elbows when possible.

 

 

Great tips, thanks! In terms of the 90 degree elbows, it looks like I will need quite a few unfortunately but am open to ways to minimize.  The Trigger Systems Sump has 2 drains - sorry if I'm using the incorrect terminology - but it seems like I'd want to do a 90 to put overflow into both or is that not needed?  Alternatively, would 45 degree fittings be "better" than 90 degrees in terms of flow?

 

To add - here's what I was thinking as a basic high-level with the exception of a split for the two "drains" into the sump.

Edited April 16, 2016 by joro

[flooddc]

45 will flow better and smoother than 90 degree.

 

Your tank has dual overflow right? 2 drains and 2 return?

If that the case, I am sure many will recommend herbie or bean animal overflow.

Edited April 16, 2016 by flooddc

[joro]

45 will flow better and smoother than 90 degree.

 

Your tank has dual overflow right? 2 drains and 2 return?

If that the case, I am sure many will recommend herbie or bean animal overflow.

 

 

It unfortunately only has a single (left) overflow - so 1 drain, 1 return.  I'm going to do Durso standpipe to help minimize noise.

[joro]

First round of plumbing done for the sump and will be installing the overflow portions tomorrow!

[greengalaxy]

Have you had any good success with the filter socks

[joro]

Have you had any good success with the filter socks

 

This is our first time using them, so I can definitely let you know.  Our previous 125g FOWLR tank we had maybe 8-10 years ago, we didn't use them. 

Edited April 18, 2016 by joro

[flooddc]

Looking good and clean!

since you don't have an "emergency" drain or 2 second drain. I would recommend a cover (gutter guard works well) over your overflow box to prevents snail, fish or anything from entering into the overflow and possibly clog your drain.

[joro]

Looking good and clean!

since you don't have an "emergency" drain or 2 second drain. I would recommend a cover (gutter guard works well) over your overflow box to prevents snail, fish or anything from entering into the overflow and possibly clog your drain.

 

Are these things you can buy off the shelf or is it something that needs to be rigged?

[flooddc]

Are these things you can buy off the shelf or is it something that needs to be rigged?

gutter guard come in a roll. $2 @ HD or Lowes?

cut to size and zip tie over the overflow box.

[joro]

gutter guard come in a roll. $2 @ HD or Lowes?

cut to size and zip tie over the overflow box.

 

Cool, thanks for the tip!

[joro]

I re-jiggered the plumbing again this evening before the full water test to make sure everything aligned.  Post full water test, only one small leak identified on the return side which I'll fix tomorrow morning but in general working well.  Two observations / questions for you all:

 

1. I've noticed the overflow is really noisy, it's like having a waterfall in our house.  We decided to go with the Dorso Drain and have adjusted that to within 1 1/2 inches below the return pump.  Is this correct? Is there a better method to prevent this sound?
2. The drain from our tank is overrunning the first stage of our Trigger Systems sump, so I've noticed we had to dial down the ball valve to reduce this flow.  Is this common or is there something we should be doing to prevent excess flow?  
   1. You'll notice from the pics that we had to "cap" one of the drain pipes in the sump because I couldn't figure out how to get tubes into both (they were too close to each other).  Any suggestions on this front?

Thanks!

[joro]

It's also worth mentioning that the Tunze 6065's have been running a bit loud as well both in the 32g Brute Trashcan we're using for RODI + Salt Mixing as well as in the Tank where we are using it just to provide flow for the heater.  Is this is a common problem with these and are their better alternatives that are quieter?

[flooddc]

I re-jiggered the plumbing again this evening before the full water test to make sure everything aligned.  Post full water test, only one small leak identified on the return side which I'll fix tomorrow morning but in general working well.  Two observations / questions for you all:

 

1. I've noticed the overflow is really noisy, it's like having a waterfall in our house.  We decided to go with the Dorso Drain and have adjusted that to within 1 1/2 inches below the return pump.  Is this correct? Is there a better method to prevent this sound?
2. The drain from our tank is overrunning the first stage of our Trigger Systems sump, so I've noticed we had to dial down the ball valve to reduce this flow.  Is this common or is there something we should be doing to prevent excess flow?
   1. You'll notice from the pics that we had to "cap" one of the drain pipes in the sump because I couldn't figure out how to get tubes into both (they were too close to each other).  Any suggestions on this front?

Thanks!

1) I have Durso on mine tank. Not really noisy at all. If you set it correctly it should be pretty quiet. Is it factory Durso or DIY?

In any case, try adjusting your return flow and it should reduce noise.  

2) Not familiar with trigger sump. Is there a adjustable gate for each compartment? Also, since you don't have emergency drain, I'd not restrict the drain pipe. It should be fully open during operation. again, adjust the return pump flow to what you sump can handle. 

It's also worth mentioning that the Tunze 6065's have been running a bit loud as well both in the 32g Brute Trashcan we're using for RODI + Salt Mixing as well as in the Tank where we are using it just to provide flow for the heater.  Is this is a common problem with these and are their better alternatives that are quieter?

Could be loose impeller or impeller shaft is broken?

[joro]

1) I have Durso on mine tank. Not really noisy at all. If you set it correctly it should be pretty quiet. Is it factory Durso or DIY?

In any case, try adjusting your return flow and it should reduce noise.  

2) Not familiar with trigger sump. Is there a adjustable gate for each compartment? Also, since you don't have emergency drain, I'd not restrict the drain pipe. It should be fully open during operation. again, adjust the return pump flow to what you sump can handle. 

Could be loose impeller or impeller shaft is broken?

 

 

(1) The Durso is factory and thanks for the suggestion, I'll play around with the return flow to see if we can quiet it down.  

(2) There is an adjustable gate between the fuge and return pump; however, the drain comes in the first compartment.  It basically goes Drain -> Skimmer -> Fuge -> Return.  The problem with the flow open all the way is that it's splashing over the opening into the skimmer compartment without going through the first filters.  I included a pic below which may help? The red area circle is a cutout where water is intended to fall over once it's gone through the two filters.  

 

 

 

[matt]

I had a stock durso from the Marineland plumbing kit on my 90 when I got it. People say you can get them quiet. I was getting some flushing with my eheim pump running without any "dialing back".

 

I ended up doing a herbie with the two holes in the overflow, and ran my return over the top back corner of the tank and out the overflow box where the stock return had been. I simply removed the return pipe inside the overflow and cut it down to serve as my primary, leaving the durso as my herbie back-up.

 

Rob (zygote) probably could help you get the stock durso a little quieter, but I wanted the silence of a herbie drain.

[Origami]

I looked at your picture. It looks like your drain lines are bypassing the filter sock stage. Is this what you wanted?

[Origami]

Correction. I see on their website how the flow through this design is supposed to work....

 

Is the noise you're getting coming from the sump end or from the overflow end in the tank?

[joro]

Correction. I see on their website how the flow through this design is supposed to work....

 

Is the noise you're getting coming from the sump end or from the overflow end in the tank?

 

 It's mainly coming from the overflow and would best be described as a "waterfall sound".  Fortunately no gurgling or anything of the such.

[joro]

Here's a few pics of the overflow and drain/return setup.  We turned off the pump this morning so I can repair the one leak which is why the water is below the air gap in the pictures.

[Origami]

You should get a picture of it while it's running. It'll tell us more about how it's doing.

 

I'm not exactly sure what the hole is that's in the side of the Durso drain. It doesn't seem to be needed in my view.  If your flow is low, this opens up a low resistance path that my form a vortex and slurp air occasionally. Under normal operating conditions, though, it should be completely submerged. In many DIY Durso drains, that (nipple) vent at the top is replaced by a hole with a length of tubing several inches long friction-fit into it. By adjusting the tubing up and down (so it reaches further into the drain), it acts like a muffler and helps stabilize flow in the drain so you can typically quiet drains somewhat. You could be hearing turbulent water through this hole or you could be hearing air being sucked in through it. You might try putting your finger across the top for a second or two to see if it quiets things down. (Hold your finger on it for too long and your drain will probably start siphoning.) If it does, you might try an airline silencer - not saying that'll do the job, but you give it a try and see if it works. (Google aquarium airline silencer and see what images pop up.) 

[rioreef]

I have a 90, same Durso.  Both the drain and return have valves on them and I T off the return similar to your pic in post #5.  I have to turn the valve on the drain to slow it to get a balance between it and the return.  Fine tuning done with a combination of the drain valve and the valve on the T'd line that goes into my refugium section of sump.  Doing this, I can achieve a quite overflow.  Operational like that for 11 years now.

 

Your setup will require adjustments based on plumbing and return pump flow.