eddiev0008 December 3, 2014 Share December 3, 2014 Good evening Well as you know I am fairly new to WAMAS. I purchased a used RODI unit from coral vue. I am not sure if I need to replace the filters. I was told I should since there dried out. It has four canisters and one on top and a booster pump. As I read more here on WAMAS I was told that water in Virginia has chloramine. Do I need to purchase a whole new system in order to remove that? I am a bit confused. I went into BRS but I don't even know what size I need to purchase! Please some one help me out!! Thanks for your assistance and if anyone would like to come by and help me install it that would be great I am in Gainesville free wend and thurs all day ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wildcrazyjoker81 December 3, 2014 Share December 3, 2014 Should be the standard 10 inch sediment, carbon, and DI cartridges. A picture would help immensely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howaboutme December 3, 2014 Share December 3, 2014 The 4 canister RODI is probably meant for (in addition to the above) an additional chloramines carbon filter in your case. In reality, you can use 1 carbon of 1 or less micron to neutralize chloramines but since you have an additional canister you mind as well use it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Origami December 3, 2014 Share December 3, 2014 If the unit has been sitting around for a while unused, you'll also likely have to replace the RO membrane. When they dry out, they tend to barely pass any water. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eddiev0008 December 3, 2014 Author Share December 3, 2014 Thanks for the advice ill take a photo and attempt to down load it as I'm not sure if ill be able to do it from my phone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eddiev0008 December 4, 2014 Author Share December 4, 2014 Ok guys see below for the pics of the rodi all I need to see is what and where I can buy the replacements and which ones will remove the chloramines Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eddiev0008 December 4, 2014 Author Share December 4, 2014 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Origami December 4, 2014 Share December 4, 2014 You're most likely going to have to replace all of the stages. This includes the RO membrane, which is inside that white bullet-shaped housing. FIrst, open that housing and get the part number and manufacturer off of the membrane that's inside. You'll need that to figure out what to replace it with. Second, it's hard to tell how this is all wired, but it looks like there's a stage that's been added. I can't tell if it's up front or if it's in back and I can only guess. It looks like the DI resin stage. If that's the case, it's at the tail end of the canister sequence and I also see that you have a booster pump on the assembly. I can see a flow restrictor and what may be an automatic shutoff valve under the RO membrane housing. There's other stuff in there, too, but I can't tell what it all is. It's hard to tell you exactly how this is set up from a few pictures. You're likely going to have to have somebody get hands-on with this to diagram it out and figure it out, or learn a bit about how RO/DI systems are configured. This one's had some modifications made to it - most likely improvements from the last owner - that you'll have to figure out. This is probably what you have today: Sediment filter >> Granular Carbon (chloramine stage) >> 1 micron carbon block >> Booster Pump >> ASOV (1) >> RO Membrane >> ASOV (2) >> Pressure Switch >> DI Resin If this is close to what you have, then you probably need something like this choloramine filter pack and a new DI resin stage and a new membrane (could be a 75, 100, or 150 gpd system but it needs to be matched to the flow restrictor that you have on there today). I hope that this helps a little. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eddiev0008 December 4, 2014 Author Share December 4, 2014 You're most likely going to have to replace all of the stages. This includes the RO membrane, which is inside that white bullet-shaped housing. FIrst, open that housing and get the part number and manufacturer off of the membrane that's inside. You'll need that to figure out what to replace it with. Second, it's hard to tell how this is all wired, but it looks like there's a stage that's been added. I can't tell if it's up front or if it's in back and I can only guess. It looks like the DI resin stage. If that's the case, it's at the tail end of the canister sequence and I also see that you have a booster pump on the assembly. I can see a flow restrictor and what may be an automatic shutoff valve under the RO membrane housing. There's other stuff in there, too, but I can't tell what it all is. It's hard to tell you exactly how this is set up from a few pictures. You're likely going to have to have somebody get hands-on with this to diagram it out and figure it out, or learn a bit about how RO/DI systems are configured. This one's had some modifications made to it - most likely improvements from the last owner - that you'll have to figure out. This is probably what you have today: Sediment filter >> Granular Carbon (chloramine stage) >> 1 micron carbon block >> Booster Pump >> ASOV (1) >> RO Membrane >> ASOV (2) >> Pressure Switch >> DI Resin If this is close to what you have, then you probably need something like this choloramine filter pack and a new DI resin stage and a new membrane (could be a 75, 100, or 150 gpd system but it needs to be matched to the flow restrictor that you have on there today). I hope that this helps a little. Thank you very much for the help. Yes i bought this used and i do believe that the canister that is alone is the DI Resin. Would it help you if i took the filters off? and photo them next to where i took them off? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Origami December 4, 2014 Share December 4, 2014 Thank you very much for the help. Yes i bought this used and i do believe that the canister that is alone is the DI Resin. Would it help you if i took the filters off? and photo them next to where i took them off? Thanks Eddie, the challenge is following all of the plastic lines around and mapping out the connection to all of the canisters and various other components that you have there. Taking the canisters off is unlikely to help a whole lot there. Unfortunately, it's no longer a stock design that we can just look up. It probably works just great (once you get new filters in) but, unless you understand how it's set up, you really don't know what you have or how to operate it. Do you think that you can diagram it out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eddiev0008 December 10, 2014 Author Share December 10, 2014 Thank you guys for all your help I was able to get the proper filters for the.rodi system! Anyone want to help me set it up in my garage??? Be available all week anytime! I'm not to handy need help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eddiev0008 December 10, 2014 Author Share December 10, 2014 Should be the standard 10 inch sediment, carbon, and DI cartridges. A picture would help immensely. Wild, Thanks it was the standard 10 in I was able to order all new filters with the membrane. I need help setting it,up in my garage if u know anyone that knows how let me know. Be available all week Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wildcrazyjoker81 December 10, 2014 Share December 10, 2014 Wild, Thanks it was the standard 10 in I was able to order all new filters with the membrane. I need help setting it,up in my garage if u know anyone that knows how let me know. Be available all week If I was closer to ya I would help, but I'm pretty far away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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