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I need help don't understand


morgan175

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Your corals are starving, you need to add some fish. The LPS are taking in all the nutrients and the SPS are starving. 

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I don't believe that 5 fish in 110 gallons is too clean so that's ok. When I snorkel I see 10 fish in about every billion gallons. I have seen low phosphates be an issue with pizza guy but that's super rare. What I'm looking for is PH fluctuation or alkalinity fluctuations because I lost a lot of sps before figuring it out.

1) how many gallon water change do you do? How often?

2) how do you dose if you dose

3) any buffers added if any

 

 

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I don't believe that 5 fish in 110 gallons is too clean so that's ok. When I snorkel I see 10 fish in about every billion gallons. I have seen low phosphates be an issue with pizza guy but that's super rare. What I'm looking for is PH fluctuation or alkalinity fluctuations because I lost a lot of sps before figuring it out.

1) how many gallon water change do you do? How often?

2) how do you dose if you dose

3) any buffers added if any

 

 

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He doesn't have these fish at the moment, just a little green chromis.

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Around 18 gallons every two weeks.

 

Dose every other night. Hooking jeabo up doser when I feel I can trust it. Running tests now.

 

Buffer? I don't add ph up.

 

I would love to get an apex to see the fluctuation.

 

 

 

 

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He doesn't have these fish at the moment, just a little green chromis.

I have a question though. I want to learn. Even with just green chromis. Vendors like ERC and king of corals keep SPS with tons of gallons and few fish in tank. most of the time none and their sps grows every week I come in.

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I used to dump it in same exact way check out my results. 826cc790d03fbfce6b157804bf359d87.jpg check out the faded color. It also had STN at bottom. Skin flaking off now I'll send live pic of coral after a doser used

 

 

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9818738491e9f97ad0dd86040e4b6a90.jpgb103af2892f843f9f5a3bc8245db3446.jpg

Check out that color after the doser got hooked up!! So hot. Second pic is repaired STN and sweet polyp extension way more than I had ever dreamed of before using doser.

 

 

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First, I don't recommend dosing. Yet. Not until you can tell me how much calcium and alkalinity your corals are consuming daily. There's not a lot in there that you have to worry about yet, and there is no sense in throwing off your numbers with throwing in 2 part. This is just my 2 cents, so take it for what it's worth. S

 

Second, I think Frank may be right, your corals might be starving, but something tells me that it's your alk swinging. I agree with only one fish in your 110, you should turn off your skimmer and let your water dirty up a bit. Remember, nothing good happens fast. If they are bleached, they will come back with good params, if they are RTN/STN, I have not had any luck saving something on the way out.

 

I have a question though. I want to learn. Even with just green chromis. Vendors like ERC and king of corals keep SPS with tons of gallons and few fish in tank. most of the time none and their sps grows every week I come in.

 

Vendors like ERC? Richard doesn't keep SPS in his setups, loads of LPS, and he feeds pellets to all those scolys.

I've not seen KOC setup, but I would imagine they have plumbed in with the fish, or feed the corals.

 

Look at Quantums frag tanks, they have harlems of clownfish and mandarins.

Pristine aquariums when in business always had fish in their frag tanks.

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Makes sense! One fish only needs a few flakes and the skimmer will take that tiny amount of pooh right out so I agree with both of you now. I agree that you may not need to dose also. I just assume that if someone is dosing, they have a mature tank and need to dose. If you need to dose, then use a doser. SPS require stable parameter. The goal is a solid number no swings what so ever. When dumping in alk, it may raise the PH or alk a bit to fast, causing stress to the sps.

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Another thing that crossed my mind. If you decide to turn off skimmer, be sure to add air stone for oxygenation. This way the fish have plenty of O2 and you also won't affect your Ph

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YOu can do all of these things and you might still have the problem. It looks as if these were all freshly cut frags and small ones at that. Tiny frags often do poorly.  Buy bigger frags of corals that aren't difficult to start with.

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How old are your bulbs?

How long is your photoperiod?

What is the temperature range the tank runs at?

How long have you had the frags?

Is your coralline algae staying purple or is it also turning white?

 

Post up a full tank shot.

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Also regarding how LFS keep corals...They are not good examples of how to keep corals (unless in their display but that's debatable) because they are not keeping corals for the long term. They are resellers. The goal there is to keep the coral inventory rotating. If it's not rotating, Houston, we have a problem.

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I'll add one other variable to the mix. Slow tissue necrosis can be caused by bacteria (possibly vibrio). If it is bacterial, then you can either frag the coral about a half inch above the necrosis line (to make sure you are fragging healthy tissue) or reduce the amount of light on the frag until heals. By heal I mean stop dying.

 

Low nutrients plus high light PAR stresses the coral (so much light -- so little food!) and that may inhibit its immune system to defend against bacteria.

Edited by jaddc
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