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Another Nitrate Question re: DC Water

TrueTricia

By TrueTricia,
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TrueTricia Starfish

TrueTricia

Ok

 

So I finally have my 90g tank up and running, but I'm having some nitrate issues.  I tested the tank a week ago when there was nothing in it and had high nitrates at around 80.  I thought it was odd given that there was nothing in there, but I had just added a powerhead and the sand was old (another Reefer's tank), so maybe it was just stuff blowing around.  I did a water change of about 30%.  I added snails.  They're all doing fine.

 

Tested the water again last week and my nitrates were again high.  Which made me suspicious.  So I tested the tap water.  Yes, I use tap water.  I rent and don't have the option of adding an RO unit.  The tap water tested at around 40.

 

So naturally I assumed this couldn't be right and thought my API nitrate tests must be expired and reading wrong.  I ordered in some new ones off Amazon that expire in 2019.  Tested the tap water again.  Again it tested at 40.

 

Has anyone else heard of DC's water having nitrates in it?  

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YHSublime Neptune Reefer

YHSublime

Why can't you add an RO unit? Myself, and many others I know also rent, adding a unit is easy as a,b,c. I know that doesn't answer your questions, but without one, and using tap water is going to be complicated, albeit not impossible.

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gmerek2 Oracle Reefer

gmerek2

BRS RODI has a sink adapter. You are already seeing problems with using tap. It is higher because some of the dried nasties are decomposing off the sand and rock if you have rock in there. Your problem will go away With time. Some call it NTS. This hobby takes a lot of patients

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gmerek2 Oracle Reefer

gmerek2

Also the kits are made to test saltwater not fresh tap. So mix the salt first then test :) good luck love the tank!

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smallreef Oracle Reefer

smallreef

As Isaac said, you can add an rodi with the sink adapter...all you do it remove the current aerator on the faucet and put on the adapter and there is a little side where the hose to the rodi unit...I use it in my spare bath as I too rent....

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AlanM Oracle Reefer

AlanM

Even if you're renting it's really easy to add a RO/DI under the sink. 

 

Just unscrew the faucet tubing coming out of the shut-off valve under the sink and screw something like this in:

 

http://www.espressoparts.com/V_ASVPP2?&search_id=2418497

 

Then you just stick the RO/DI tubing into the John Guest fitting and turn on the valve when you want to make water.

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YHSublime Neptune Reefer

YHSublime

Sorry, here's a better part number.  Even qualifies for amazon prime.  And has 1/4 inch tubing out instead of 3/8 since all RO/DI systems use 1/4 inch plastic tubing.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Speedfit-ASVPP1LF-8-Inch-4-Inch-Adapter/dp/B003YKF2JC

 

This is exactly what I use, it's super simple. I just put a shut off valve on a piece of tubing, then another piece of tubing that I keep coiled up under the sink. When I want to make water, I connect it into my RO/DI, and just turn the valve.

 

There's not a lot of sense in mixing up your salt with your tap water, and then "putting out fires" with problems like phophates and nitrates for the rest of your tanks life. It will make the hobby a nightmare, and you'll be done before you even start. This is just my two cents, so take it with a grain of salt, although it may seem like a complicated option, it will be the easiest in the long haul.

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TrueTricia Starfish

TrueTricia

  • Author

Ok. First the api kit does actually test freshwater. It's still above the 10 ppm the epa allows.

 

Ok. Any suggestions besides a ro unit? If I have to get one then fine.

 

I'm probably going to have to go with a nitrate Reactor huh?

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YHSublime Neptune Reefer

YHSublime

Ok. First the api kit does actually test freshwater. It's still above the 10 ppm the epa allows.

 

You are correct, nitrate testing through API is the only test you can use for both SW/FW.

 

 

Ok. Any suggestions besides a ro unit? If I have to get one then fine.

 

 

Not from me, but I think it would be a wise investment.

 

Ok.... I'll take a look at those suggestions. If it's that easy to install it may work.

 

It is really easy. Don't worry about!

 

But I'm still calling the epa.

 

Knock your socks off. I highly doubt the API test kits are anywhere near accurate enough to validate a 10 ppm above what's allowed.

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howaboutme Legendary Reefer

howaboutme

 

You want the RO membrane to be horizontal...they are much more efficient that orientation. Look at tried and true RODI units from BRS, Spectrapure, Purely H20, Buckeye Field Supply (now called Buckey Hyrdo) to name a few. Get the one's that come w/ the carbon and sediment filters at 1 micron or less. They will save your RO and make it last longer.  You don't need a 5 stage one, just the standard 4 stage will work great....Research around..there deals out there if you look hard enough.

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jaddc Master Reefer

jaddc

I too was shocked to see the DC nitrate and phosphate levels when I tested the tap water using a fresh water test kit. Phosphate is added to protect all the city pipes from corrosion.

 

I was shocked again when I tested the tap water after going through a Brita filter and found that the levels were unchanged. 

 

The government folks are aware of this, but there is little that can be done. Our water comes directly from the Potomac about a mile or two north of the Key bridge (you can see the intake on the canal towpath). Upstream from that point are hundreds of farms. When it rains a lot (like it did), tons of fertilizer laden runoff enters the Potomac. Rule of thumb -- if the water looks nasty brown, it is high in nutrients. The filtration system can reduce these contaminants by only so much.  

 

It's a problem for the tanks, but not for humans -- of all the things that can harm us, its low on the list.

 

I rent and I use a BRS 5 stage RODI and I'm happy with it. In fact, I moved and was able to remove and reuse the split-valve without the landlord knowing a thing and got my full deposit back.

 

When buying a unit make sure you get the chloramine version since DC uses chloramine instead of chlorine. It's just a smaller particle carbon filter that is a little more expensive.

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howaboutme Legendary Reefer

howaboutme

(edited)

When buying a unit make sure you get the chloramine version since DC uses chloramine instead of chlorine. It's just a smaller particle carbon filter that is a little more expensive.

 

You don't need another stage for chloramine removal. A good carbon block (1 micron, preferably less like .5 or .6) will do the job.

 

The carbon block breaks chloramine up between chlorine and ammonia. The RO doesn't do a good job removing NH3, that's where the DI come into play.

 

The extra stage is marketing...you only need a 4 stage RODI unit if you don't get cheap and buy 5 micron pre-filters. The pre-filters are the cheapest, don't skimp on them. They will protect and make the  more expensive parts (RO and DI) last longer.

 

Extra reading:

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-11/rhf/feature/index.htm

 

Edit..some more reading..

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1735402

 

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=200056

 

I know it's Spectrapure as the author but you can see the science behind it.

Edited by howaboutme
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AlanM Oracle Reefer

AlanM

BRS sells special chloramine breaking carbon.  Called catalytic activated carbon.  I assumed it had some special surface treatment to the carbon to break the chlorine and ammonia.

 

I started out with a 4 stage unit, but my RO/DI always smelled like cat pee even though it was registered 0 on the TDS meter.  When I added a 5th stage of catalytic activated carbon before the carbon block the smell went away.  /shrug

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howaboutme Legendary Reefer

howaboutme

BRS sells special chloramine breaking carbon.  Called catalytic activated carbon.  I assumed it had some special surface treatment to the carbon to break the chlorine and ammonia.

 

I started out with a 4 stage unit, but my RO/DI always smelled like cat pee even though it was registered 0 on the TDS meter.  When I added a 5th stage of catalytic activated carbon before the carbon block the smell went away.  /shrug

 

The catalytic carbon does work, BRS is not lying. I think it's even referenced in the links above. It's just not needed if you have good pre-filters.

 

What are the specs to your sediment and carbon filters? If you got the value, they come w/ the 5 micron filters. Try getting better pre-filters and test if you want but you probably don't need to since you've already spent the money.

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TrueTricia Starfish

TrueTricia

  • Author

Ok Thanks guys!  I'm going to try to buy one today or tomorrow.  I should do another water change soon, and I'd rather spend the $50 or so on the RODI unit and not at a LFS. 

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howaboutme Legendary Reefer

howaboutme

I think I like this one too. For $50 more, i get a better filter and increased efficiency.  And a 3 year warranty. 

 

http://spectrapure.com/AQUARIUM/RO-DI-SYSTEMS/CSPDI-RO-DI-Systems/CSPDI-Standard-90-GPD-RO-DI-System

 

Yep..that works too. it comes w/ their higher end DI too....like I said previously, Spectrapure is top notch, many wamas members use them. Also keep in mind that most of the unit itself is the same (canister, bracket, tubing, etc) so you can buy a less expensive unit that may come w/ a 1 micron sed and carbon prefilter and then change them out in 6 months w/ spectrapure's 0.5 micron filters or other brands..as long as they are 10", they will all work w/ each other.

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