So I set up the Apex...

[dante411x]

Picked up the one thing I've wanted forever and haven't had enough sense to buy. The famous Apex.   Thanks Pizzaguy!!! 

 

I've had a reef keeper lite since the beginning of the tank's existence. However, since it was used and a piece of junk used at that, I've never trusted it with anything important. So it was used to monitor temperature and turn a fan on and off. 

 

First thing I realized with the Apex was that there's certainly a learning curve with it. But I think.. (hope?) that I've managed it.

 

Took a little while to figure out where and what I wanted to plug into it. So far, it's everything! The unit I picked up (used again) (thanks again pizzaguy!!!) came with the screen, full controller, an EB8, a DB8 (apparently an older version of the eb8) and the temp probe and ph probe. I also picked up a ph probe earlier (thanks gadgets!!!) and had tried using it with the reef keeper but it promptly broke when I plugged it in, so I just left it sitting in the probe holder in the sump to wait for better days. 

 

So the full list of stuff I had to hook up today looked like this:

controller

screen

db8

eb8

temp

ph1

ph2

 

So, I set out to figure out how this thing works! First thing I did was read the 100+ page manual. Mostly skimmed it with reading the important things. Then I went out to Home Depot, picked up a 25 foot ethernet cable, drilled through the ceiling in my basement and through the wall behind where my router sits and wired up the basement for this thing. Signed up for fusion and got it. Updated the unit. Reset it. Had a fun time tinkering with all the new outlets and naming them and learned how to program them. Fortunately, most of the outlets I had to plug in are the "always on" type, so the programming was easy. 

 

Here's where I had my first problem with this thing. The only things I had to program so far were my heaters, fan for cooling and I also programmed the return pump and skimmer to shut off during feeding. Since I have MP40's and IT2080's they are plugged in, but on the "always on" mode because there's no need to control them. They're already controlled all by themselves. So it was a little disappointing. I was hoping to have some awesome controls, and realized that everything I've bought already has the awesome controls built in.

 

Second problem came after I plugged both the ph probes in. One of them reads ph at 7.87 (this is the one I picked up earlier that's been sitting in my sump for a few days) and the other reads ph at 8.43 (this is the one I got today with the unit). I was hoping they would be closer together. About to go test the PH with my trusty API kit and see what it says. Then maybe I can have an idea.

Also, the PH probes are different. Not the probes themselves, but the cords. One has more metal. Looks much more legit would be a good way to say it. The other seems a little more flimsy.

 

Third problem is the fusion beta. It was all shiny and pretty and I wanted to just hug it when I was finally able to figure out that clearing my browser cache was the way to see the "link" button on the dashboard. However since then it's been just disappointing. I've tried tinkering with it, but what it doesn't seem to update is the outlets and what I've programmed them to do since I first linked the controller to the website. So... it's actually completely useless. It doesn't show the second PH probe's readings or show/graph the amp readings from the eb8. lame. Hopefully they get it in gear sometime soon.

 

That seems to be all from my observations so far. I haven't done the important things yet. Like setting up alerts. or email or text notifications. That's the bridge to cross for tomorrow.

 

However, one thing is definitely true. The Apex blows the Reef Keeper out of the water. I'm kind of torn between putting the reef keeper on my freshwater tank in the bedroom, or getting another EB8 and running the DB8 to my bedroom and having the apex control that tank too. Just in case some of the $1 fish from petsmart decide to start dying for some reason and I want to know what it is. Graphs are cool.

 

Any suggestions? 

[YHSublime]

You can start doing stuff with your water heaters, for example if your temp gets too hot, you can shut them down (or the lights turn off.) You can put a switch on your skimmer (you'll need a breakout box) or on your locker (if you have one) so it shuts down your skimmer if you ever have it overflow. I think the WXM module will help control your MP-40's, but don't distress, that should all be taken care of soon, from what I hear. I will probably get the reef link for the radions and the MP's, as I hear it's a clear winner.

 

Even as a basic on off function (which my Apex still mostly serves as) I use it ALL the time.

[monkiboy]

well congrats to you for getting as much done as you have - that's fantastic. i have about a bunch of apex goodies still sitting in their box waiting for me to have a catastrophe to feel enlightened to finally get it installed. keep us posted on progress, do you have a build thread?

[dante411x]

Thanks gents! I appreciate it. It certainly was fun way to spend the evening. I've gotta look into the wxm module, but it seems like the reef link would make more sense. A breakout box is happening, since I definitely want to use a bunch of float switches all over the place

 

Also, after testing ph 7! times with my API kit, it seems that my ph is at 8.0

 

It's magic. And looks like I'll be heading to QR to pick up some calibration fluid haha

[dante411x]

You can start doing stuff with your water heaters, for example if your temp gets too hot, you can shut them down (or the lights turn off.) You can put a switch on your skimmer (you'll need a breakout box) or on your locker (if you have one) so it shuts down your skimmer if you ever have it overflow. I think the WXM module will help control your MP-40's, but don't distress, that should all be taken care of soon, from what I hear. I will probably get the reef link for the radions and the MP's, as I hear it's a clear winner.

 

Even as a basic on off function (which my Apex still mostly serves as) I use it ALL the time.

Well, I do have the heaters programmed for that. And the fan for if the water gets hotter than they're supposed to heat.

I've considered setting the lights to turn off, but they don't really put out heat so that would be more of a visual alert if I'm at home.

[Origami]

Dante, pH probes need to be calibrated. That means using pH calibration solutions, not an API (or other manufacturer) test kit. Typical values that you'll find in stores are pH 4.0, 7.0 and 10.0 solutions. Pinpoint makes convenient solutions that are available in single-use foil packets. Be aware that of the four solutions, the pH 10 solutions tend to drift the most after opened because of exposure to CO2. If a packet is freshly opened, this is not a problem, but sometimes people try to save a buck and save a solution for later use. If you're using the foil packets, they're cheap enough to just get rid of after use.

 

The Apex uses a two-point calibration procedure. For a probe that sits in tank water, since the pH is between 7 and 10, use those pH calibration solutions. (When calibrating a probe for a calcium reactor, though, we use the pH 4 and 10 solutions because the environment in the reactor is acidic.)

 

Be sure to leave ample time for the probe reading to settle when calibrating. Probes drift with time, so calibration should become routine if you want an accurate reading (not hugely critical in my opinion). Frequency of calibration depends upon what sort of drift you experience but once a month may be a good place to start.

[Ne0eN]

Instead of using 10.0 pH calibration solution, you can create a DIY batch of a very stable 9.180 pH solution using off-the-shelf borax. Not sure if Apex supports programmable calibration mode - my Reef Keeper surely does.  This way you only need to buy a bottle of 7.00 pH, which is not affected by the exposure to CO2.

[dante411x]

Ok. Now I don't understand if I'm doing something wrong. Seems like the programming is correct, but it just doesn't work.

 

I have my fuge light (par38 bulb) plugged into one of the solid state outlets on the EB8. This is the programming I put in:

 

Fallback OFF

Set OFF

If Time 21:00 to 10:00 Then ON

 

However, no matter what I do, it stays on. In auto mode. It will turn off if I put the outlet in off mode. I don't get it.

 

[dante411x]

Ok. Now I don't understand if I'm doing something wrong. Seems like the programming is correct, but it just doesn't work.

 

I have my fuge light (par38 bulb) plugged into one of the solid state outlets on the EB8. This is the programming I put in:

 

Fallback OFF

Set OFF

If Time 21:00 to 10:00 Then ON

 

However, no matter what I do, it stays on. In auto mode. It will turn off if I put the outlet in off mode. I don't get it.

Never mind..... Looks like I'm an idiot. The controller set it's time zone in pacific and not here when I reset it. Well DUH!!! Makes perfect sense why it wasn't turning off.

[Origami]

Here's the article for the borax reference.

http://web.archive.org/web/20010211030108/http://www.animalnetwork.com/fish2/aqfm/2000/feb/bio/default.asp

 

I remember reading it years ago. Simple enough to mix but there is some temperature dependence. There's almost always a dependence, even with the commercial solutions, but I can't say off hand how it compares. Commercial solutions are cheap, though, if you want to give that a go.

[dante411x]

Here's the article for the borax reference.

http://web.archive.org/web/20010211030108/http://www.animalnetwork.com/fish2/aqfm/2000/feb/bio/default.asp

 

I remember reading it years ago. Simple enough to mix but there is some temperature dependence. There's almost always a dependence, even with the commercial solutions, but I can't say off hand how it compares. Commercial solutions are cheap, though, if you want to give that a go.

Thanks, I went and picked up a couple packets of each seven and 10 solution. Figured first time I'd rather use the commercial one, since they are cheap. Once I get comfortable with it I'm sure I'll try the Borax

[Rob A]

I seem to remember that the graphing doesn't start right away. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. Seems like I had to wait until midnight came and went or something.

[Djplus1]

If you're "bored" with the powerhead settings, you can set them to go off for an amount or separate amounts of times for feeding. I run the Jebao's and they are not controllable via the traditional method, nor do they need to be, but setting them up to turn off the moment you turn on the feed button and turning on a few minutes before the return pumps kicks back in is pretty handy. Not exactly ground breaking, but saves you from hitting three separate feed buttons.