jefftse December 19, 2013 Share December 19, 2013 My house is well and I only get about 30 psi going into the membrane and also the di is getting exhausted very quickly. So I decided to get a pressure booster pump from brs. After I connected the pump. I only got 5 psi increase. From what I understand. There is no setting to change on the pump. I really don't know what to do. I can't keep buying di because it will be all done after 30g of water. Any suggestion? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Country December 19, 2013 Share December 19, 2013 If you only got a 5 PSI increase I would suspect that something is wrong, either there is a way to adjust it on the pump or the pump is bad. I'd look for a video on BRS website or give them a call. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoffwehler December 19, 2013 Share December 19, 2013 Isn't there a pressure switch where the water comes into the house? Mine is at the base of an well pressure tank. It has a 30/50 pressure switch on it. It turns the well pump on at 30lbs and shuts it off at 50lbs. I've adjusted mine to turn off around 60lbs. Not really recommended but it's been that way for years. I get tons of pressure at the RO/DI. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoffwehler December 19, 2013 Share December 19, 2013 How is the pressure at the shower? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nytelighter December 19, 2013 Share December 19, 2013 I would definitely take a look at the pump. I gained 30 PSI when I hooked up the same pump from BRS. Went from 40 PSI (Second floor apartment), to 70 PSI. Does your RODI unit have a flush valve that you might have left open? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToddR December 19, 2013 Share December 19, 2013 Change the pressure switch on your pressure tank to a 40-60psi. While the pressure is completely off of the houses water system, check the air charge on your pressure tank. There is an air fitting on top of the tank to check this. Adjust the pressure on the tank to 38psi. This is what I did when I hooked my system up. If you just crank up the pressure on a 30-50 switch it could effect the run time on your well pump so checking this pressure is a must!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkiboy December 19, 2013 Share December 19, 2013 i just helped a fellow reefer on here with his well set up. he was getting 25psi replacing DI about every two weeks. installed the BRS booster pump, made no changes elsewhere, and now he's at 80 psi steady making about 100gpd on a 75gpd system. you have the flow restrictor installed properly? the water is entering and exiting the booster pump correctly according to the directional arrows? your system is free of kinks? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Origami December 19, 2013 Share December 19, 2013 First, where in the system are you measuring pressure? You may have to trace out the lines to determine this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jefftse December 19, 2013 Author Share December 19, 2013 How is the pressure at the shower? Shower pressure is fine and it's on the 3rd floor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jefftse December 19, 2013 Author Share December 19, 2013 (edited) i just helped a fellow reefer on here with his well set up. he was getting 25psi replacing DI about every two weeks. installed the BRS booster pump, made no changes elsewhere, and now he's at 80 psi steady making about 100gpd on a 75gpd system. you have the flow restrictor installed properly? the water is entering and exiting the booster pump correctly according to the directional arrows? your system is free of kinks? Where is the flow restrictor located? The entering and exiting the booster pump are correctly installed. Edited December 19, 2013 by jefftse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jefftse December 19, 2013 Author Share December 19, 2013 First, where in the system are you measuring pressure? You may have to trace out the lines to determine this. right before the membrane. same system I used in my townhouse (city water) and I was getting 60psi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jefftse December 19, 2013 Author Share December 19, 2013 If you only got a 5 PSI increase I would suspect that something is wrong, either there is a way to adjust it on the pump or the pump is bad. I'd look for a video on BRS website or give them a call. i thought the same thing. I called them and they exchanged a new one for me. no difference... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jefftse December 19, 2013 Author Share December 19, 2013 I would definitely take a look at the pump. I gained 30 PSI when I hooked up the same pump from BRS. Went from 40 PSI (Second floor apartment), to 70 PSI. Does your RODI unit have a flush valve that you might have left open? My RO/DI unit has no flush valve and I just installed new membrane and filters Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jefftse December 20, 2013 Author Share December 20, 2013 mystery resolved!!!!! I removed the waste line restrictor by accident, now I'm getting 85 PSI going into the mambrane. I have my RO/DI unit about 6 years and I don't have a flush kit. Do you think it's necessary? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Origami December 20, 2013 Share December 20, 2013 right before the membrane. same system I used in my townhouse (city water) and I was getting 60psi If you have extra tubing around, try moving the pressure gauge to just after the booster. If your filters are clogged, you can get a lot of drop across them. Moving the gauge to the other side should help you isolate the drop. I assume that any flush valve is closed? The flow restrictor is on the waste side of the membrane. It comes in different forms. In AWI units, it can look like a white pipe of sorts with a black valve handle on the side. In other cases, it can be a thin (often colored) tube that slips into the tubing on the waste side. If the flow restictor is open or missing, RO/DI output will be very, very low and waste water output will be high. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr.x-ray December 20, 2013 Share December 20, 2013 I have my RO/DI unit about 6 years and I don't have a flush kit. Do you think it's necessary? If you are producing water constantly then it can be argued yes or no. It's really a life extender for the membrane. But if your not I believe it to be a must. Setting water will leach TDS through the membrane so you want to blow it off prior to starting to fill your top off. AIr water ice says to flush for 30 seconds per day of inactivity before producing ro/di. ie 4 days=2 minutes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jefftse December 23, 2013 Author Share December 23, 2013 Now that I have very good water pressure (85 psi). I made about 160g water so far and I can see all the DI color is already changed.... The TDS going in is range from 250-450. What should I do? just keep changing my DI? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Origami December 23, 2013 Share December 23, 2013 Now that I have very good water pressure (85 psi). I made about 160g water so far and I can see all the DI color is already changed.... The TDS going in is range from 250-450. What should I do? just keep changing my DI? Your DI resin is exhausting too quickly. What is the history of the unit that you have? Are you sure that it's plumbed correctly? What is the TDS going into the DI stage? Are you sure that the RO membrane output is going to the DI stage and not the RO waste line? What is the TDS of the waste line? Can you shoot several pictures of the unit from different angles so that we can see how it's configured (how all of the tubing is interconnected between the stages)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Country December 23, 2013 Share December 23, 2013 Now that I have very good water pressure (85 psi). I made about 160g water so far and I can see all the DI color is already changed.... The TDS going in is range from 250-450. What should I do? just keep changing my DI? That's a big range of TDS out of your membrane, how old is the membrane? I am not on well water but I get 1 TDS out of my membrane consistently after I flush it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkiboy December 23, 2013 Share December 23, 2013 tom has you covered. some TDS readings from the various stages will help greatly understand what's going on. most notably, what is your TDS coming in, what is the TDS going into the membrane(s), and TDS coming out of them and into DI? also assumption is that you're producing 0 TDS currently after the 160g water creation? ultimately what helps greatly is also "flushing" the first minute or two of water coming out of the membrane(s) that goes to the DI as it will carry high TDS for a bit. once it is under 10 TDS or so you can have it flow through your DI. you can use a 3-way john guest fitting to accomplish this easy peezy. and because your system is larger, i would recommend dual DI cansiters to make maintenance effortless and less frequent and to allow for optimal efficiency and product water for a longer duration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jefftse December 23, 2013 Author Share December 23, 2013 The membrane is brand new and so are. The filter. I changed all of them when i moved here Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Origami December 23, 2013 Share December 23, 2013 Jeff, you should flush a new membrane with at least 10 gallons of water, bypassing the DI stage, when it's brand new. Did you do that by any chance? Get the TDS out of the membrane (and before the DI stage) when you get a chance. Let the water run for a couple of minutes before taking the sample. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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