howaboutme November 3, 2013 November 3, 2013 the d120s are no longer manufactured by evergrow and has been replaced with a fixture called the d2040 at the same price point! the heatsinks are standard now, indeed. you also get a choice of black or white, the "premium"/IT series hanging kit, and it comes in the IT series case (without the controller of course). they are very quiet like jack said - the same as the d120s as all components are the same with the addition of the heatsinks. Thanks for the heads up. I tried to do some research based on what you just said, no much available to view except a little on the EG website. Even RB doesn't have any. The white color is very sleek though, me likey.
monkiboy November 3, 2013 November 3, 2013 Thanks for the heads up. I tried to do some research based on what you just said, no much available to view except a little on the EG website. Even RB doesn't have any. The white color is very sleek though, me likey. from what i understand, the big players are all trying to get rid of their d120s before they introduce the new fixture as to not get stuck with them as the upgraded d2040 is obviously going to be a buyer's first choice between the two.
Nytelighter November 3, 2013 Author November 3, 2013 (edited) Thanks fscbishop. Took a lot of time and effort doing all of this in a second floor apartment :-) No garage or backyard to work in :-( from what i understand, the big players are all trying to get rid of their d120s before they introduce the new fixture as to not get stuck with them as the upgraded d2040 is obviously going to be a buyer's first choice between the two. Makes sense. I would probably do the same if I was in their boat. Either that or start selling the D120's at a reduced price to clear the inventory. Anyway, guess who I was able to catch hanging out today during feeding time this morning? Edited November 3, 2013 by Nytelighter
Nytelighter November 8, 2013 Author November 8, 2013 Well nothing new to report at this time. Some small subtle changes soon to be made. I ordered a topoff reservior (7 gallons) from NAGA at PimpedOutAquariums so I can get that ugly white bucket I'm using now out of the way. Also looking into getting another WP25 and selling my MP10 WES. Just now a fan of the noise that comes with it no matter how slight it is. Need some input before I pull the trigger on another item. Right now I just run Chemi-pure elite in my sump which I know is a mixture of carbon and gfo and wanted to know if there is an upside to running it in a reactor? Right now I just run it passively; it sits in the flow of my sump. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Nytelighter November 9, 2013 Author November 9, 2013 Thanks Shoelace!!! I'm happy with the way it turned out. Fish are happy with all the free swimming space, parameters are good, just sitting back and enjoying the fruits of my labor now.
smallreef November 9, 2013 November 9, 2013 It's looking really good! As far as the chemipure...I just run mine passively...to many problems I've heard associated with running it in a reactor...but then there are always good stories too..I'm choosing to use biopellets for my big tank... You really shouldn't have to much of a nitrate issue with such a small stock list so I'm not sure if you'd need to run a reactor anyways...
fscbishop November 9, 2013 November 9, 2013 My opinion would be to stick it in a reactor. It's far more efficient then a media bag. Use a tlf 150 or the reef octopus mf100 beginner series. Probably unessasary for your FOWLR but precautionary maintaince is far easier then when you have a problem. JMHO - Steve
YHSublime November 9, 2013 November 9, 2013 For a fowler I would just invest in an excellent skimmer, and water changes, my 2c fwiw.
Nytelighter November 9, 2013 Author November 9, 2013 It's looking really good! As far as the chemipure...I just run mine passively...to many problems I've heard associated with running it in a reactor...but then there are always good stories too..I'm choosing to use biopellets for my big tank... You really shouldn't have to much of a nitrate issue with such a small stock list so I'm not sure if you'd need to run a reactor anyways... Thanks. I was fishing to see if anyone has run it in a reactor and if they did was it in still in the bag or did they open it up and run it in the reactor loose? My opinion would be to stick it in a reactor. It's far more efficient then a media bag. Use a tlf 150 or the reef octopus mf100 beginner series. Probably unessasary for your FOWLR but precautionary maintaince is far easier then when you have a problem. JMHO - Steve I have been looking at those TLF 150 and the possibility of running it off my return pump since I have it dialed back and have some oomphf left to use. I'm also an advocate of preventative maintenance vice reactive maintenance. For a fowler I would just invest in an excellent skimmer, and water changes, my 2c fwiw. I have a Bubble Magus Curve 5 on there right now. Pulling some decent skimmate considering my bioload is not that heavy. 10% water changes are done religiously every 7-10 days. Keeps her looking nice and fresh.
smallreef November 9, 2013 November 9, 2013 So then the most important question is...what is your nitrate level?.....
Nytelighter November 10, 2013 Author November 10, 2013 Don't have a nitrate problem at the moment. Just looking to make my system more efficient. In other news.....power outage in Stafford!!!!! Time to plug in my inverter to the cigarette lighter and run an extension cord into the apartment!!!!!
smallreef November 11, 2013 November 11, 2013 Wow...from the wind? Don't know if I'd worry if you haven't seen a problem brewing...now when you start to notice a consistent rise in 'trates then I'd put something in place before they become a problem...but with this being a FOWLR you really just need to keep them below 100 and that is not to difficult with regular water changes...
Nytelighter November 11, 2013 Author November 11, 2013 Well power was only out for about an hour and a half so all is well!!!! Wheeww!!! Yeah I figured as much. KISS method right :-)
YHSublime November 11, 2013 November 11, 2013 but with this being a FOWLR you really just need to keep them below 100 and that is not to difficult with regular water changes... For a fowler I would just invest in an excellent skimmer, and water changes, my 2c fwiw. Somebody with a lot more experience than me can probably speak to this, but I don't see the need for chemipure. I haven't been doing it for long, but I've run my tanks with just heavy skimming, and water changes, and I don't dose anything, yet.
Nytelighter November 18, 2013 Author November 18, 2013 Somebody with a lot more experience than me can probably speak to this, but I don't see the need for chemipure. I haven't been doing it for long, but I've run my tanks with just heavy skimming, and water changes, and I don't dose anything, yet. I don't dose anything either, just skimming and weekly water changes just like you said. I guess I could just as well run a bag of regular carbon but I'll just leave it in the way it is for now. Once it's time to change it out I might experiment running the tank without it and see how it goes. Well as far as updates, nothing crazy going on at the moment. Ordered an American DJ Rack power outlet off amazon so I can conduct some cable management cleanup this week. Also got in on the WP25 Groupbuy that Hlem was working so that I can have two WP25's on the tank and sell my MP10WES. Can anyone chime in on this question on lighting: For a 40B should I go with the IT2060 or IT2080? My goal is to have full coverage on the tank or have very minimal shadowing on the ends.
Orion November 18, 2013 November 18, 2013 When you get the two WP-25s up and running let me know if its too much flow for the tank. I have a tank that's slightly larger than your 40b, but only one WP-25 on order. Thinking of ordering another one down the road.
Nytelighter November 18, 2013 Author November 18, 2013 Will do. FYI, I have my WP25 on a universal ac adapter so I can run it at different voltages. I have mine running at 12V right now and its very tame, so I see no problem running two in my system at a reduced voltage. If you run it with the factory power supply in a tank this size......let's just say you better put some towels down.
monkiboy November 18, 2013 November 18, 2013 Can anyone chime in on this question on lighting: For a 40B should I go with the IT2060 or IT2080? My goal is to have full coverage on the tank or have very minimal shadowing on the ends. you can go either way. depends on what you plan to keep and where. if you're looking to grow very high light demanding corals in the very corners of your tank at the very bottom, maybe, it's worth going to a IT2080. you can likely avoid heavy shadows running an IT2060 without optics on all but perhaps the edges (if you don't have a canopy and are worried about light spill). or you can do an IT2080 and not worry about it all (shadows) and use optics to your choosing to prevent excessive light spill with exceptional coverage. i have an IT2060 over my 46g (36" length) with 90° optics at about 6" and there was some slight lightening of color on the ends. if i raised the light a bit and removed the optics likely wouldn't be an issue.
howaboutme November 18, 2013 November 18, 2013 Will do. FYI, I have my WP25 on a universal ac adapter so I can run it at different voltages. I have mine running at 12V right now and its very tame, so I see no problem running two in my system at a reduced voltage. If you run it with the factory power supply in a tank this size......let's just say you better put some towels down. Do you have a link to the adapter you're using? Any reason why you didn't use a LED dimmer instead? Have you tried to drop the voltage to 50% or less of the max? Long thread on RC says you have to maintain at least 50% into the controller or else it'll shut off. Thanks.
Nytelighter November 18, 2013 Author November 18, 2013 I'll post up a pic when I get home but they sell it as an accessory on Fish Street for $10.00. You can also seach universal ac adapter on Amazon or Ebay if you want a visual or what they look like. I chose this route because I read all the problems folks were having with led dimmers. With this setup the lowest you can go is 12V(50%). It's selectable from 12V to 24V. Then from there you go up to 15V, 16V, 18V, 19V, 20V, and 24V.
howaboutme November 18, 2013 November 18, 2013 I'll post up a pic when I get home but they sell it as an accessory on Fish Street for $10.00. You can also seach universal ac adapter on Amazon or Ebay if you want a visual or what they look like. I chose this route because I read all the problems folks were having with led dimmers. With this setup the lowest you can go is 12V(50%). It's selectable from 12V to 24V. Then from there you go up to 15V, 16V, 18V, 19V, 20V, and 24V. Ahh, I see now. Darn, I should have got one when I got my 25. What problems were you hearing about with the led dimmers? Thought most of it revolved around people throttling it down below 50%. Of course this adapter helps prevent that. Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk
Nytelighter November 18, 2013 Author November 18, 2013 (edited) I think you hit the nail on the head. Most were saying that the units became unresponsive once you went below 50% on the dimmer switch. I just ordered another adapter to go with the new WP25 and will be running them both at 15V to see if I like the flow. Or I may run one higher and one lower. Ultimately I would like to get an Apex and run these with custom programming. you can go either way. depends on what you plan to keep and where. if you're looking to grow very high light demanding corals in the very corners of your tank at the very bottom, maybe, it's worth going to a IT2080. you can likely avoid heavy shadows running an IT2060 without optics on all but perhaps the edges (if you don't have a canopy and are worried about light spill). or you can do an IT2080 and not worry about it all (shadows) and use optics to your choosing to prevent excessive light spill with exceptional coverage. i have an IT2060 over my 46g (36" length) with 90° optics at about 6" and there was some slight lightening of color on the ends. if i raised the light a bit and removed the optics likely wouldn't be an issue. Great arguments for both. I guess I just need to pick one and pull the darn trigger. :-) Edited November 18, 2013 by Nytelighter
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