Neto April 25, 2013 Share April 25, 2013 How long does it takes for SPS frags to take off (start growing) in your aquarium? In my experience, after I introduce the frags into my tank, they are kind of frozen (no growth) for maybe 2-3 months and take off. I guess this happends because the frag needs to get used to your lights, water, etc? I had a frag once that did not grow untill 6 months and now its growing very fast. It kind of looks like a strawberry shortcake or red planet (still too early to find out). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Der ABT April 25, 2013 Share April 25, 2013 depends on ALOT of things, the coral, conditions etc ive had frags take off from the instant i put it in the tank ive had another frag that did nothing and i mean NOTHING for 1.5 yrs....suddenly it took off and is stunning now...cant tell you how many times i almost threw/gave it away and am very happy i didnt. Some corals like to encrust first as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newtoreef April 25, 2013 Share April 25, 2013 Good questions. Same with me it takes couple of months till I see any growth... The only thing that grows like weed in my tank are Zoas, GSP,Softies, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
surf&turf April 25, 2013 Share April 25, 2013 I have a pearlberry acro that sat dormant for at least 6 months and didn't do anything, looks great and is growing now, but a pink birdnest that came in at the same time has tripled in size. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GraffitiSpotCorals April 25, 2013 Share April 25, 2013 I have a a few pieces I got from mr Coral. Two are large colonies, one is my biggest now thst everything got cut, the other is still on the frag plug and has not grown a bit. It did fully encrust though. I saw its blue polyps one time, and the corals stays green. I keep thinking its not even a coral, like it was a fake frag or something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neto April 25, 2013 Author Share April 25, 2013 Lol imagine that, plastic frags! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dipg April 25, 2013 Share April 25, 2013 for me some aquacultured SPS frags start growing instantly after i put them in the tank but for some it takes couple of time. This might sound crazy but I have identified some WAMAS members whose frags start growing instantly where as there are other members from whom i have bought frags and it has taken a long time to show growth. I concluded that my tanks water chemistry might be closer some members tank thus the difference. And the above theory doesn't stand true for the montipora frags, all of my montipora frags start encrusting and growing immediately. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neto April 25, 2013 Author Share April 25, 2013 I wonder if this has to do with the type of aclimation process we use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Der ABT April 25, 2013 Share April 25, 2013 acclimation process?? Dip.....rinse,...put into qt ....do you do some thing different? only acclimation i do is temp if the frag has been in a bag for a long time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
surf&turf April 25, 2013 Share April 25, 2013 acclimation process?? Dip.....rinse,...put into qt ....do you do some thing different? only acclimation i do is temp if the frag has been in a bag for a long time. +1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sachabballi reef April 25, 2013 Share April 25, 2013 acclimation process?? Dip.....rinse,...put into qt ....do you do some thing different? only acclimation i do is temp if the frag has been in a bag for a long time. +2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wade April 25, 2013 Share April 25, 2013 M acclimation for sps was always to set the frag out in the air for about 5 minutes and let it slime up well (on a pc of acrylic/edge of the tank). Once it had slimed completely, then I'd add it to the tank/qt. As for growth, I found that when I glued frags directly to my rock, they always base out first. That would always start quickly, although each coral has its own growth rate once started. On bases that move (plugs, etc) - even mild rocking - it seems to really retard their growth. But thats just an observation I made ages ago. Oh, and using epoxy really slows them down. I think it burns away the tissue (literally kills it) where it is contact with the epoxy where superglue isn't as harsh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neto April 25, 2013 Author Share April 25, 2013 acclimation process?? Dip.....rinse,...put into qt ....do you do some thing different? only acclimation i do is temp if the frag has been in a bag for a long time. Well, I usually do temperature aclimation, then dip in bayer then rinse and later introduce them into the tank. Thats covers water aclimation only but what about light or water flow aclimation? I have heard numerous things like putting frags on the lower light area's then move them to the middle or a higher part in your aquarium or just put them directly into the shade (no light) for a week or so.... I have a milli that was turning to a dark purple color on my frag rack (sits in the corner of my tank) and there was some polyp extension but a month ago i place it more to the center of my tank where it gets more light and it base is turning to a green tint with no polyp extension now and no growth... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sachabballi reef April 25, 2013 Share April 25, 2013 Well, I usually do temperature aclimation, then dip in bayer then rinse and later introduce them into the tank. Thats covers water aclimation only but what about light or water flow aclimation? I have heard numerous things like putting frags on the lower light area's then move them to the middle or a higher part in your aquarium or just put them directly into the shade (no light) for a week or so.... I have a milli that was turning to a dark purple color on my frag rack (sits in the corner of my tank) and there was some polyp extension but a month ago i place it more to the center of my tank where it gets more light and it base is turning to a green tint with no polyp extension now and no growth... i think that depends on what lighting they came from and where they were in their tank...I always try to ask that when I get frags or if they post a fts i can see for myself.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howaboutme April 25, 2013 Share April 25, 2013 .put into qt ... Can you explain the need to put corals in a QT as opposed to dropping directly in DT after acclimation? I thought corals are very different than fish when it comes to sickness....Everything I've read says there is not need to QT a coral. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wade April 25, 2013 Share April 25, 2013 Usually I would do it if there was a question about where it came from... many diseases and pests are transferable and you can catch them with observation. Red bugs (acros), montipora nudibranchs, certain snails on zooanthids, etc. Also, if they shipped/were handled poorly them can go into meltdown within a day. Best not to have dead/dying tissues all over the tank, especially if they are carrying some viral or bacterial pathogen. That said, I would only do it if there was a question (from hobbyists without long term tank observation). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howaboutme April 25, 2013 Share April 25, 2013 Thanks Wade. I do believe that an adequate dip like Coral Rx, Revive, or even Bayer as someone above mentioned, will mitigate a lot of the bad hitchhikers. The process that I am following is temp acclimate by float, dip in Revive (or whatever else you choose) mixed in old DT water, then rinse in FSW and then drop in DT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wade April 25, 2013 Share April 25, 2013 Thanks Wade. I do believe that an adequate dip like Coral Rx, Revive, or even Bayer as someone above mentioned, will mitigate a lot of the bad hitchhikers. Dips catch some things, but there are two issues. One is making sure what you are dipping for is affected by the chemical (eg, bacterial problems won't be treated by quinones but red bugs will). The other is making sure the treatment is long enough to cause its intended effect. A dip is rarely sufficient for something that buries its feeding parts in coral tissue (red bugs, again). You will get many of them, but not all of them. There are longer steps necessary to treat effectively. The same with bacterial contamination. Eryrthomycin may help as a surface treatment, but it works by preventing bacterial growth - not killing them (it is bacterio-static, not lytic) - so it won't be terribly effective. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howaboutme April 25, 2013 Share April 25, 2013 Very good information. Thank you. Good thread, very informative. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Der ABT April 25, 2013 Share April 25, 2013 (edited) +1 on above Also ALWAYS remove frag plugs even if encrusted and have to throw away some of it (not if its encrusted literally the entire plug ill cut off any part of the plug showing (only say this because i have a few growout frags that literally encrusted the entire way aorund the plug top.) its amazing how many critters live on frag plugs. edit- dont mean you have to throw the plug away but at least let it dry out for a few days/weeks before you reuse it. and if yuo have to kill a litle of the coral its well worth it to take away the risk of a pest regardless of how small the frag is its another reason i prefer no frag plug/ fresh cut/ see a dry frag plug used on purchase. Another reason they go into a qt (technically my daughters cube is the new qt is so i can see them, if anything lives thru the dip i will either see it whilte its in the qt or when i do round 2 dip... trying to keep the system as pest free as possible, obviously you can never keep everything out but i do my best. Edited April 25, 2013 by Der ABT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallreef April 25, 2013 Share April 25, 2013 So many great responses...well just to let you know..I kill all SpS that tries to enter my system... Lol its great thats so many of y'all love and can care for these... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sachabballi reef April 25, 2013 Share April 25, 2013 Who is using Bayer and how is it working vs traditional dips? Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neto April 25, 2013 Author Share April 25, 2013 I use it and find it to be extremely usefull against red bugs! I used to use interceptor but its a pita to get and you have to dip for hours. With Bayer, its only for minutes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zygote2k April 26, 2013 Share April 26, 2013 ask the owl. he says it takes 3. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wade April 26, 2013 Share April 26, 2013 I would seriously caution everyone about the "Bayer" - find out what pesticide you are really using. The one I've seen people on RC posting pics of is a mix of two pesticides. Not only will it kill crustaceans, it does nasty things to vertebrates because of the mixture. Most of the time they are a pyrethroid which isn't so bad to vertebrates (including you and I)... I urge extreme caution. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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