Light overdose? What to do now?

[treesprite]

I was an idiot and replaced two daylight bulbs at the same time a couple weeks ago. Now most of my corals are either bleaching or looking brown when they used to be colorful, and a couple frags have been lost. I started cutting back photo period several days ago, but I don't know if it will help at this point. I am wondering if I should put back the old bulbs for a while.

 

Any thoughts/suggestions?

[OldReefer]

Reduce the photo period and add a little iodine.

 

It helps corals deal with photo stress.

[Coral Hind]

I agree, good advice. Raising the lights or use eggcrate as a screen is also an option.

[matt]

Reduce the photo period and add a little iodine.

 

It helps corals deal with photo stress.

 

Its not that I disagree, but how does the iodine help specifically...would like to better understand

[Jason Rhoads]

 

 

Its not that I disagree, but how does the iodine help specifically...would like to better understand

Same here. I have never seen anything like this said before.

[treesprite]

thanks for the advice. As far as the iodine goes, will wait to see what the response is about it.

[treesprite]

I'm so ticked off about this situation. I'm going to have to practically start over. My LPS colonies & GBTA, which are all low or on the bottom, seem to be ok. But my SPS corals, which are higher in the tank, are still on a fast decline. It's uncertain with the zoanthids/palys.

[hypertech]

What kind of bulbs are you talking about? I've never had a bulb change kill a coral.

[ridetheducati]

It may not be light related. Check your logs for irregularities. Brown corals equal excessive nutrients or not enough light.

[treesprite]

I went from a couple of really old bulbs to a couple of brand new 12ks. The change in bulb type alone made the colors look duller immediately, so I have no doubt that the brown look originates from that.

 

Last time I tested my nitrate was a couple weeks ago and it was about 5, so I doubt the problem with color is high nutrients. If my problem is anything to do with water chemistry, it's something I can't test for.

 

Prior to getting the new bulbs, I had a bunch of little orange monti pieces in a 10g tank which were drastically faded due to poor light (I thought they were going to die). I put them on the sand in my DT (tank we are discussing), and they turned bright orange within about 2 weeks. Since changing the bulbs on the DT, those orange monti pieces are all faded out again - they are still on the bottom of the tank.

[ridetheducati]

I went from a couple of really old bulbs to a couple of brand new 12ks. The change in bulb type alone made the colors look duller immediately, so I have no doubt that the brown look originates from that.

 

Last time I tested my nitrate was a couple weeks ago and it was about 5, so I doubt the problem with color is high nutrients. If my problem is anything to do with water chemistry, it's something I can't test for.

 

Prior to getting the new bulbs, I had a bunch of little orange monti pieces in a 10g tank which were drastically faded due to poor light (I thought they were going to die). I put them on the sand in my DT (tank we are discussing), and they turned bright orange within about 2 weeks. Since changing the bulbs on the DT, those orange monti pieces are all faded out again - they are still on the bottom of the tank.

 

Alkalinity swing?

[monkiboy]

 

 

Alkalinity swing?

i was just going to ask...

[OldReefer]

 

 

Its not that I disagree, but how does the iodine help specifically...would like to better understand

 

Sorry, I have not been online much lately.

 

There are a bunch if cites on this. I think I originally picked it up from Calfo's book. I think Borneman also mentions it but I don't have his book handy. The basic idea is that Iodine is utilized by corals for the synthesis of pigments, which allow them to adapt to varying light conditions and provide their tissue with protection from UV radiation. There is also some thought that excessive lighting causes oxidative stress that iodine helps mitigate.

 

In simple terms, it seems like a good idea to top off your iodine levels when messing with your lights. It can't hurt much.

[treesprite]

Sorry, I have not been online much lately.

 

There are a bunch if cites on this. I think I originally picked it up from Calfo's book. I think Borneman also mentions it but I don't have his book handy. The basic idea is that Iodine is utilized by corals for the synthesis of pigments, which allow them to adapt to varying light conditions and provide their tissue with protection from UV radiation. There is also some thought that excessive lighting causes oxidative stress that iodine helps mitigate.

 

In simple terms, it seems like a good idea to top off your iodine levels when messing with your lights. It can't hurt much.

 

Thank you for sharing the information!

 

As far as alkalinity, no swings prior to this happening. I haven't tested it for a couple weeks. But I just tried the pH meter - I was about to be freaked out because it said 8.8, but then I tested tap water and got 9.2! I have a single-use packet of calibration fluid somewhere around here, but I can't remember how to calibrate the thing (did it when meter first purchased a couple months ago). The tap water around here generally goes right around 7.9 - 8.2, so my tank water pH is probably not bad. I will have to do tests when I get home from work tonight. I have an iodine kit somewhere around here, but it might be expired. I used to have a bottle of iodine, but not sure where it is now or if it is still good after a couple years.

Edited April 13, 2013 by treesprite

[ridetheducati]

If you decide to go down the Iodine dosing path, please get a test kit and read the following:

 

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/mar2003/chem.htm

[treesprite]

I have an iodine/iodide test kit. I have to find it and I'm not sure how old it is... will do that before doing any iodine dosing.

 

I don;t think it's chemical because the GBTA would probably have been affected; it's doing quite nicely.

 

Something else that hasn't been affected - the pavona that grew out of nowhere on the base of my rock. It's actually growing faster since changing the bulbs, but it in an area where it is partially shaded. Actually looks like a coral now instead of some boring encrusting stuff

[Decadence]

With the massive turbo snails constantly bulldozing around my tank, I have had quite a few SPS frags knocked around, sometimes winding up behind the rocks for a few days or weeks. The corals will slowly adapt to this lower light condition and then even small increases of light will cause STNing from the base-up depending on how long their lighting was low. I have lost a few frags this way and then I have had others almost completely go and then come back. If this is the case, they will become a very pale and brownish version of their original coloration. While I have experienced this myself, I will still highly recommend that you do some extensive testing to ensure that there is not an underlaying condition which is causing unnecessary stress on your corals. The lesser demanding corals may seam to be completely fine but they may be just more tolerant of parameters, whereas the SPS corals just needed that little extra kick to give in to the stress.