MaxiJet Usage in RO/DI and Saltwater containers.

[johnnybv]

 

 

Yes, wow. Basically this falls into the category that you have to make your own judgment on what to do based on the suggestions of others. There are many ways to run a reef tank and I guess there are just as many ways to store RODI water.

 

Personally, threads like this are the most helpful and informative to everyone.

 

Yep, there are many ways to skin the cat, and the original question was asking for opinions, that is how we learn.

 

[DaveS]

Outside of the question in the OP, RODI water is not sterile. The water has bateria in it and those on well will see it faster than those on municipal with Chlorine but stuff can eventually grow in your RODI reservoir. It takes a few weeks but eventually a slime coat will develop, the water may get cloudy, and things may have a pink hue. The way to avoid this is to use your RODI water. Don't keep it sitting around and don't fill just as fast as you use.

 

I have a 30G RODI reservoir. It could last 20-30 days as top off but I typically take a good chunk of it to make salt water. I use my RODI down to 2-3G before I run the RODI and make another ~30G. This way little old water is not left sitting around and, just as importantly, my RODI is running less often but longer, not more often for less which is bad for your TDS. I don't circulate the fresh water and things stay clean.

 

I have had RODI sit around in a Brute before and it wasn't so fresh after a while.

 

The "disadvantage" with this is if I have a problem and my reservoir is at 4G about to be filled instead of 30G. I have less emergency water but even if I had the full 30G it may still not be enough. Besides, that's what my WAMAS friends are for in a bind. I also mitigate this risk by having a 150GPD system. It doesn't cost much more than a 50GPD and it gives me much faster production in case I need it.

[netpez]

Johnny, that was what my thought was... I have heard people say when you mix your saltwater you aerate your water via pumps, airstones etc.

 

That is all fine and dandy, but staright RO/DI water goes straight into the tank as well for topoff, so aerating that should be just as important as aerating your saltwater.

 

I am going to have a 5 gallon ATO rervoir under my tank (that I will refill from my RO/DI reservoir), do you think that is a good size for a 66 gallon red sea max? I think that will last 4-5 days.

[jaddc]

Outside of the question in the OP, RODI water is not sterile.

 

RODI water is sterile.

 

Bacteria is introduced use the water contacts the holding vessel or the dirty exit hose.

Edited March 26, 2013 by jaddc

[jaddc]

 

That is all fine and dandy, but staright RO/DI water goes straight into the tank as well for topoff, so aerating that should be just as important as aerating your saltwater.

 

the percentage of top off water relative to the DT is so small that it will have negligible effect on the dissolved oxygen. It really is not necessary. I'll do the math if you need more convincing.

[netpez]

here are my plans on usage:

 

I require about 8-10 gallon a week water change (saltwater)

 

I require about 1-11/2 gallon ATO per day (Lets say 11 gallons per week)

 

I like to have some spare RO/DI and saltwater on hand in case of emergencies because sometimes you have to get in your tank, and that causes loss of water... lets say 5 gallons of each to be generous (hey I am a nervous nelly)

 

That would be: a requirement of:

- 31 gallons of RO/DI (total per week)

 

of that:

- 15 gallons of saltwater would be made

- 16 gallons of RO/DI left

 

Now I don't feel like making RO/DI water everyday, so maybe on sundays I make the water. Some of that water will be sitting for a week. Also, some of it may not be used, and get incorporated into the next batch of water making. Is that ok? Or should I dump that week's water and start afresh?

Edited March 26, 2013 by netpez

[jaddc]

In my experience, yes it is OK for rodi water to sit. Sitting in the dark is best. If it has an odor or is cloudy then dump it.

Edited March 26, 2013 by jaddc

[johnnybv]

I don't need any convincing, I will always aerate any water that is added to my tanks. Not only are you adding O2 but you are also gassing off anything that might be left after RO/DI, which we would hope would be nothing, but it all depends on the condition of the source water and the RO/DI unit. I have visited many aquaculture facilities, and have never found a concern of over oxygenating water, so again I will take any advantage I can get. I mean we are talking about using or not using a $30 pump that consumes maybe 20watts, kind of an easy decision for me.

[DaveS]

RODI water is sterile.

 

Bacteria is introduced use the water contacts the holding vessel or the dirty exit hose.

 

Yea you are probably right. But whether the water isn't sterile or it stops being sterile as soon as it's made and runs through hoses to its holding container, the net effect is that it doesn't last indefinitely. Hopefully people will design their systems and operations with this in mind.

[jaddc]

 

 

Yea you are probably right. But whether the water isn't sterile or it stops being sterile as soon as it's made and runs through hoses to its holding container, the net effect is that it doesn't last indefinitely. Hopefully people will design their systems and operations with this in mind.

 

The reason why I point that out is that if someone is having difficulty storing RODI water then perhaps changing or sterilizing the storage vessel and/or changing the post filter plumbing would lengthen the shelf life of the water.

Edited March 26, 2013 by jaddc

[kjamaya]

I agree with John, I def turn on my powerhead a few hours a day to get some sort of circulation in my ro water. As Daves mentioned if you allow ro water to sit it develops this slime. I've added a powerhead because of that and haven't experienced anymore slime.

At the end of it all it comes down to what you think is best for your tank.

[zygote2k]

easy answer-

don't allow your water to sit for longer than a few days.

I service many tanks that have either a direct top-off valve from the r/o and a reservoir for mixing saltwater or areservoir that is teed off and goes to the tank for topoff. to prevent accidents like johnny mentions from happening, periodic cleaning and inspection and/or replacement of the float valve is needed. The water is on hand in one day after using it to do a water change. there's no pump running in the container until I turn it on to mix the water. when the water is mixed for 30 minutes, it is fully saturated with O2.

the easier you make your system and with the fewest components will result in less chances of failure and more time viewing the tank instead of working on it.

[rocko918]

I keep an airstone in my RO/DI holding tank. Helps keep the ph up.

[sachabballi reef]

I keep enough rodi for one week and use extra left to make salt water every Saturday... my rodi is 150 so I can make it fast enough that I don't store rodi. It has a float valve to replenish if for some reason i use more than expected. I dont top off direct. I keep 45 gallons of salt mixed and aerated. Not sure why having a months supply of rodi on hand at all times is such a value. Even if you aerate you will have to clean that container frequently.... so one less thing on my maintenance list.

 

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[rocko918]

I have 35 gal brute trash can of ro/di water with the airstone. I mix salt when i need it. Clean the container? lol, never have in 5 years. do you clean the container you keep your saltwater in?

[rocko918]

 

 

My question, is what "mode" do I use these maxijets in for my freshwater and what "mode" do I use it for in the saltwater.

 

The modes include:

- Utility pump

- Laminar Flow

- Power Head

 

 

Just use the utility mode for both!

[howaboutme]

Hey netpez,

 

I bet you didn't think you were going to get this extent of a discussion when you posted, huh? Very good information here to thnk about.

[sachabballi reef]

I have 35 gal brute trash can of ro/di water with the airstone. I mix salt when i need it. Clean the container? lol, never have in 5 years. do you clean the container you keep your saltwater in?

Yes. Once a month I wash it down.

 

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[roni]

Some people have large RO/DI reservoirs. I really don't see the downside to aeration, especially depending on how quickly you're adding to your system. Personally, I have mine fed from a LM3 with a top off module into a kalkreactor. I probably go through 7-8 gallons a day and my reservoir gets topped off weekly. However, I think I'll throw an airstone in there going forward What's the negative to it...an airpump uses 2-10 w/hr. that's about $12/year.

[netpez]

Yeah... I didn't mean to incite a war over methods of storing water LOL

 

I have a mighty Mighty mite which is rated 50 gpd I believe. I would like to just run it once a week for the water I need for that week. I always thought to myself it is better for water to be moving so it did not become stagnant and remained aerated. Maybe just to alleviate my mind, I will just throw an airstone in there. I understand the water we produce is sterile, but unless we live in labs, crap is gonna get into the water supply (yes I have a trash can lid, but it isn't like it is fitted with some sort of vacuum seal)

 

I do have another important question.... do you all leave your pumps running in your saltwater reservoir's until the moment you do your water change? The reason I am asking, is because I keep hearing about leftover sediment/junk that remains after mixing the salt (I will be using reef crystals) and it sounds like I don't want this to get into my reef tank. What are your methods?

[roni]

I have a pump turn on in my reservoir that is on a timer. It's on the same time as my turf scrubber (about 9 hours/day). There is probably some sediment at the bottom of your reservoir and to be safe, I guess you could periodically clean the reservoir and run the water through a filter sock if you were inclined.

 

I'm lazy/indifferent and haven't noticed any problems with sediment in my stored salt water, though I do use it fairly quickly.

 

btw, I wouldn't take any of this as "war". Lots of different ways to do things in this hobby. None of it is proven in the sense of a hypothesis driven experiment. Most is anecdotal and it's always great to get different perspectives when they're presented in a civil manner.

[sachabballi reef]

War ? Lol hardly...you all need to be pregnant and be on the babycenter forums if you want to see wars lol...this us friendly banter trying to understand other methods.

My pump is always on in my salt container...I use RC and you definitely get a brown film. Wash out your salt container every few fill ups.

 

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[Huly]

Hey netpez,

 

I bet you didn't think you were going to get this extent of a discussion when you posted, huh? Very good information here to thnk about.

 

I am just glad he is asking all of you instead of bouncing stuff off me LOL

[jaddc]

Yeah -- at the end of the day do what will help you sleep at night. It's your system and your $$$..

 

FWIW Here is what I do on my 29g JBJ.

 

On Fri or Sat I turn on my RODI to produce up to 15 gallons. I use three 5 gallon buckets from my local paint store that I wiped clean with water before I first used them. I wipe them dry after each use. After I make the water I flush the membrane for 5 minutes and then turn off the RODI unit

 

My tank chore day is usually Sunday. In two of the buckets, I put in a MJ1200 (in configuration A). I then sprinkle my required salt (a little more than I need for my target) into the bucket. It circulates for about an hour at which point I measure the salinity and adjust it with water from the third bucket to 35 ppt (my selected value).

 

I don't heat my replacement salt water. When I do a 10 gallon (>30%) water change my DT temperature controller drops from 80 to 78 degrees (it returns to 80 degrees in about 30 minutes). Have not seen adverse effects yet.

 

I have a separate 5 gallon top-off reservoir (actually it is an Office Depot plastic office file folder holder that fits in my stand perfectly) which I top off with fresh RODI. There is no circulation pump, air-stone or heater. Aside from the day I got it, I never clean it. I checked it just now and the water is crystal clear, with no odor or sediment, and (yes) no foul taste. I keep it in my stand and away from light (my chaeto lives in the back sump area of the JBJ nanocube).

 

After everything is done, I refill the third bucket with RODI, clamp on the lid, and store it in the dark for up to a week until my next chore day. I do this just in case I need to make a quick batch of saltwater since I don't have a RODI booster pump. That water is always clean and clear after seven days. I have never dumped RODI water because it turned fetid.

 

My tank has not crashed since I set it up in Jan 2011. My "precious" corals (3 scolys, a cool kind of rare fungia, and pricey dendros) and my crocea clam never show any sign of stress and are growing nicely. I have only had minor GHA or cyano outbreaks which I link directly to my habit of overfeeding and were quickly cured. Check out my pics and vids in my sig for more proof.

 

I agree with Rob, simplicity is nice in the complicated hobby. I do large water changes to avoid dosing of any sort -- but I realize that is a luxury of nano tanks.

 

Side note: Outside of the hobby people do store water in tanks and cisterns to drink. It's not an outlandish idea. If your vessel is contaminated, then just disinfect the bucket.

 

Fill it with tap water (or RODI waste water) and add some bleach overnight. Afterwards, rinse it well. Fill it again with RODI and add the right amount of tap water conditioner. You can either use that conditioned water, or dump it and fill it with fresh, untreated, RODI water. Don't take my word for it -- CDC has instructions.

 

http://www.cdc.gov/healthywater/emergency/safe_water/cisterns/disinfection_cisterns.html