MBVette November 14, 2012 November 14, 2012 (edited) I have my current RODI unit attached to my hose spigot, but wanted to move it to an indoor sink. Can I pick up a sink adapter at home depot for this, and I need a new float valve since I broke mine would they have that their as well? Edited November 14, 2012 by MBVette
Swimboy123 November 14, 2012 November 14, 2012 Have you thought about making a more permanent attachment using a self-piercing saddle valve? That way you always retain use of the sink but can still make water.
MBVette November 14, 2012 Author November 14, 2012 so the faucet adapters make it so you cant use the faucet any longer?
nbgen12 November 14, 2012 November 14, 2012 There is a flow director on the adapter where you can either make rodi water, or use the faucet....just not both at the same time is what i think he means. Sent from my MB865 using Tapatalk 2
PotomacBoater November 14, 2012 November 14, 2012 If you check out my build thread ... http://www.wamas.org/forums/topic/50883-matts-first-90g-tank/page__view__findpost__p__431274#3 I talk about installing my rodi under the sink. I added a "T" off the cold water line and the sink still works just fine http://www.amazon.com/Brass-Supply-Stop-Extender-Tees/dp/B0078S1Y0M I did add a valve to keep water out of the RODI when not in use On the Drain, CoralHind suggested ... http://www.airwaterice.com/product/WE-CU114B-Q/Drain-Saddle.html Again, the sink still works and drains normally Nothing complicated, and fully removable if you move.
Greenhornet November 14, 2012 November 14, 2012 (edited) what kind of valve did you add? You can use this. It sits inline between the riser and the valve. http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=24874&catid=643&clickid=searchresults Edited November 14, 2012 by Greenhornet
PotomacBoater November 14, 2012 November 14, 2012 Hornet is right, that works fine I didn't use this exact setup http://www.amazon.com/Watts-K-1-Polyethylene-Icemaker-25-Feet/dp/B000BQUF44/ref=sr_1_34?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1352918400&sr=1-34&keywords=1%2F4+in+valve But you can see the type of valve and it comes with the saddle and lots of hose to get from the RODI to the reservoir
MBVette November 14, 2012 Author November 14, 2012 So is the saddle valve for the drain and you put the T for the intake?
Marc Weaver November 15, 2012 November 15, 2012 Google a Drain Saddle Clamp for the wastewater line. Install it above the trap on the tailpiece of the sink drain. I'm not sure whether HD or Lowe's carries them. The two above are for the supply. The saddle valve linked by PotomacBoater will pierce the pipe when tightened and can never be removed unless the section of pipe is replaced (or if it remains permanently closed,) but will work fine. The one linked by GreenHornet can simply be removed from the valve if you ever move. My Lowe's does carry both of these.
MBVette November 15, 2012 Author November 15, 2012 Ok thanks. I am going to go with the one that can be removed i dont want to make it permanent.
Buckeye Field Supply November 15, 2012 November 15, 2012 Before anyone installs one of those self piercing needle valves, might want to take a look at the write up we did on those - on our facebook page. Russ
JeremyS November 15, 2012 November 15, 2012 I just went back to using the faucet adapter after adding a tee to the cold water line. I found that production was about half using just cold water versus using tepid water (75ish degrees) from the faucet. I dislike all the tubes everywhere, but the faster production time makes up for it. I have a new float valve that you are welcome to...it came with my R/O system but I don't need it. PM me and we can work something out.
AlanM November 15, 2012 November 15, 2012 Why doesn't everyone use one of these to hook up their RO/DI instead of using the saddle valve which makes a permanent hole in your copper? http://www.chriscoffee.com/products/home/plumbingfittings/maxadaptor Sorry for the coffee company link, but it's how I have my espresso maker hooked up and how I plan to hook up my RO/DI.
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