Okay..Strike 3

[flooddc]

Okay, this is the third time I TOTALLY forgot that I left my RODI running. Fortunately, all 3 times I coincidentally stumbling on to the RODI water reservoir and discovered it almost overflow and shut it down.

I need a to get an auto shut off. I think I am getting old and forgetful. Anyway, I see that they sell RO shut off kit (auto shut off valve, float valve and check valve). I've also seen just the auto shut off valve. Is it necessary to get the whole kit or can I get away with just the auto shut off valve? Thanks

[Origami]

Get the whole kit. The ASOV (auto shut off valve) senses the back pressure from the float valve when it closes. This triggers the ASOV to shut off the source pressure on the membrane.

[treesprite]

I don't understand how that would work. It can't turn off the water. I also want to know if it works with faucet adapters.

[flooddc]

Get the whole kit. The ASOV (auto shut off valve) senses the back pressure from the float valve when it closes. This triggers the ASOV to shut off the source pressure on the membrane.

 

Cool!

 

I don't understand how that would work. It can't turn off the water. I also want to know if it works with faucet adapters.

 

It's shut of the water flow in your RO/DI and therefore no water flow, even if you have it connected to the faucet.

Edited July 29, 2012 by flooddc

[Origami]

I don't understand how that would work. It can't turn off the water. I also want to know if it works with faucet adapters.

Here's an old drawing of the RO/DI system I had in Ashburn.

 

Notice that the water enters on the left and went through four stages of filtration. This water, under pressure, goes into the ASOV from (1) and exits through (2) before proceeding to the RO membrane. RO water comes out of the membrane and feeds through the ASOV (3) to (4) before entering the DI stage on its way to the RO/DI reservoir. The reservoir has a float valve in it. When the float valve closes, back pressure is sensed by the ASOV. The ASOV responds by shutting off the flow from (1) to (2). The canisters remain under source water pressure, but the RO membrane does not see that pressure because the ASOV has essentially isolated it.

[Origami]

BTW, I've had problems with this setup (an augmented Typhoon III) using a booster pump lately (since I'm now on a well). (It's been driving me nuts.) I may have to add a check valve just before ASOV port (3). That may be where flooddc's kit will tell him to put it. It would make sense. I just thought of this when reviewing my old drawing.

[flooddc]

Thank you Tom for your sophisticated diagram .

Yeah, looks like check valve going in port 3.

 

Here is the video from BRS.

I might order the kit from them ($25+shipping). I have some credit on ebay, I'll check to see what they have to offer.

 

[treesprite]

I use a faucet adapter to connect the line to the faucet. I have hte thought that if the water is somehow refused passage, the back pressure willmake the water line pop off the adapter and I'll have water blasting out. Note that when the water line is not connected to the adapter and the lever is on filter mode, the water sprays out directly forward - it's no fun standing in front of the sink when I turn the water on with the line detached and the lever in filter position.

[LCDRDATA]

After doing the same thing you're describing -- more than once -- I puchased this leak controller/detector from Bulk Reef Supply. So far it has worked like a champ. The sensor is almost too sensitive; once I lost a couple of drops shifting the outlet from my mixing reservoir to my top-off one and it cut off the flow. The alarm is enough to get your attention without being especially obnoxious, and it resets easily.

[Origami]

Thank you Tom for your sophisticated diagram .

Yeah, looks like check valve going in port 3.

No problem. I had the diagram already in my gallery, having used it here in the past.

 

I use a faucet adapter to connect the line to the faucet. I have hte thought that if the water is somehow refused passage, the back pressure willmake the water line pop off the adapter and I'll have water blasting out. Note that when the water line is not connected to the adapter and the lever is on filter mode, the water sprays out directly forward - it's no fun standing in front of the sink when I turn the water on with the line detached and the lever in filter position.

Forrest, I received a faucet adapter that has a quick-connect fitting on it. The same kind used to join the stages of your RO/DI canisters. They easily handle water at household pressure without "popping off." The problem with leaving pressure on the RO membrane is that waste water continues to be produced and you shorten the life of the membrane.

[overklok]

I just make sure my RO unit floods into the floor drain, so my stupidity is the only thing that shuts it off. No mechanical problems to worry about!!!

[flooddc]

After doing the same thing you're describing -- more than once -- I puchased this leak controller/detector from Bulk Reef Supply. So far it has worked like a champ. The sensor is almost too sensitive; once I lost a couple of drops shifting the outlet from my mixing reservoir to my top-off one and it cut off the flow. The alarm is enough to get your attention without being especially obnoxious, and it resets easily.

 

Very nice device, but I don't want to add another outlet +$$

 

 

I just make sure my RO unit floods into the floor drain, so my stupidity is the only thing that shuts it off. No mechanical problems to worry about!!!

 

Lucky you .

[flooddc]

Okay,

 

Just got the kit in today. Quickest shipment I ever Rx from Ebay. Cost: ($17 (on sale) - $5 credit = $12).

 

Hooked up and works great. One less thing to worry about.

[Buckeye Field Supply]

I know this is an old thread, but I just saw it.

 

 

 

Remember that these hydraulic shut offs like this:

 

were originally designed for use with drinking water RO systems. These systems have very slow membranes (e.g., 12 gpd) and a pressure tank that provides gradually increasing back pressure on the membrane as the tank fills. In this hobby we use them with much higher-capacity membranes, and float valves the go from 100% open to 100% closed in a heartbeat.

 

 

 

So especially when you need an ASOV to work on a system with a booster pump, instead of the traditional hydraulic shut offs, consider using instead a pressure switch and a shut off solenoid like these:

 

This provides the added benefit of also shutting off the pump when your reservoir is full.

 

 

 

Russ

[clearsky57]

BTW, I've had problems with this setup (an augmented Typhoon III) using a booster pump lately (since I'm now on a well). (It's been driving me nuts.) I may have to add a check valve just before ASOV port (3). That may be where flooddc's kit will tell him to put it. It would make sense. I just thought of this when reviewing my old drawing.

 

 

Where would the booster pump be placed in this diagram?