How to setup a QT tank

[Ryan S]

I've been reading online on how to setup a QT tank. Each site varies a bit. I understand the basics, but have some questions (as usual!)

 

My plan is to run my tank fallow for 12 weeks (no treatments I guess?). Then get some new fish, and QT them for 1 month before putting them into the DT.

 

Can a QT tank be "temporary"? That is; if I order fish 3 times a year; can I setup/run the QT tank for 1 month with the new fish; take it down and store it for 3 months; hook it back up for 1 month with new fish x2, etc.?

 

Would I use new, fresh, saltwater each time, or would DT tank water be okay/better for the QT?

 

Would a 10g glass tank work, even with 10 fish at once, including tangs (small)? Or perhaps a 20g rubbermaid would be better?

 

Lastly, what kind of treatments/chemicals should I use during the QT? Prime? Vitamarin M? Coppersafe? And how does feeding work in a QT? Just feed a chunk of Jan's frozen food everyday which has lots of garlic in it?

[rocko918]

Ryan, Good to see you are taking some proactive steps. Here is what i do.

 

I keep a few sponges in my sump, things from hang on filters. So when i need to setup a q-tank i use that sponge to help seed the tank. Do not use any rocks or water from the display, you would risk introducing the ich. Here lies your problem if you do this method, i would assume ich can live on the sponge as well. So in that case i would use new water. Just have a hang on filter, heater, maybe a powerhead. You must keep an eye on your params. I would do a 20% to 30% water change weekly.

10 gal is too small for 10 fish. the 20g Rubbermaid would be better.

Keep the treatments / chems to a minimum, i would use prime to help with ammonia. Keep the salinity low, 1.019. Feed nomal amounts of food, there should be no food left over.

 

 

this is all my opinion.

 

good luck.

[SunWyrm]

No treatments needed for your dt, just no fish. 12 weeks is more than plenty, I think I remember reading the longest strain living 61 days?

 

I guess it really depends, though I agree with rocko on this, I've used dt water and new water both. If you're treating the fish you already have, and the water itself will be treated - I would use dt so transfer is easier on them. For new fish, I would use new (but established/previously made and oxygenated) water.

 

For tangs I think you should get a longer tub for swim space (even for smaller tangs), and I think you should have more than one for 10 fish. I use 2 50g 4' storage tubs filled halfway from lowes that I can store equipment in when not in use, rinse, fill with good water, and insert fish. If you're treating them, they can only have pvc or like decorations to hide in.

 

Whatever you see that they need - I personally wouldn't use copper, but that's me (and also your fish, depending on how they are able to handle such treatment). I also don't treat unless I see signs of illness, though this may change with individual fish.

 

Jan's food is awesome. I also feed extra seaweed for tangs, and flakes for all.

[Integral9]

imo:

 

1) Yes it can be temporary; however that comes with added maintenance when you have it running. As in you need to check for ammonia, nitrate / nitrite spikes and perform water changes as needed to reduce the levels. You want to avoid the cycle as it will kill the fish. You'll want to rinse and dry the QT before / after each use as well.

 

2) I don't have any answer for you on the use of DT water. I like to use it because it basically forces me to do a water change on my DT and it has the bacteria needed to help reduce the toxins. I believe it also reduces shock when acclimating to the DT after QT.

 

3) The most successful DTs I have seen were covered 35g rubber maid bins with PVC piping, no sand or rock. I think fish like dark places when they are scared and the lack of sand and rock will keep the environment "clean".

 

4) Too many fish in a small environment will force them to "compete" for space. I wouldn't put 10 fish in a 10g tank, even if they were all rainfordi gobies. I'd stick to the general rules of what fish are compatible with each other and with few exceptions, I wouldn't put more than 4-5 fish in 35g rubbermaid. You might also consider cutting up some egg crate to use as a divider to separate those who just won't get along.

 

5) I feed normally and it never hurts to vitamize the food. I treat illnesses / parasites only as necessary.

[Mike Mann]

its crazy im about to do the same thing and had all these same questions so thanks! im gonna buy a used 55g tho. Also you can QT your fish for the month around 8-10 weeks of running you DT fallow im sure. Why wait another month after.

Edited April 18, 2012 by Mike Mann

[Ryan S]

its crazy im about to do the same thing and had all these same questions so thanks! im gonna buy a used 55g tho. Also you can QT your fish for the month around 8-10 weeks of running you DT fallow im sure. Why wait another month after.

 

that never crossed my mind. duh. thanks Mike. I might as well run the fallow and QT at the same time. Save me a month! Thanks!

[Ryan S]

Another Question:

 

The GF has given me "permission" to leave the tank up all the time. But it would have to be as small as possible. I am thinking a 2 foot long tank.. Maybe a 15g? 24"x12"x12"?

 

Can I run it as a frag tank and use it as a QT tank from time to time?

[BowieReefer84]

Another Question:

 

Can I run it as a frag tank and use it as a QT tank from time to time?

 

Nope, sorry. Not allowed.

 

Seriously, I would not do that. And if you really want to setup a QT you should have one set of equipment for use with copper, and the other with out use of copper. I think Jan wrote a post on all this somewhere.

 

Edit - I have never QT a fish in my life, so take this with a grain of salt.

Edited April 19, 2012 by BowieReefer84

[rocko918]

 

Can I run it as a frag tank and use it as a QT tank from time to time?

no, you are going to want to drop the salinity to kill off the parasites. Also no need to have a light over the tank. You can use a cheap fresh water light.

[hbh]

If you use a 15 as a QT, then think 1-2 smaller fish in in there. The rules of the number of fish still apply whether it is a DT or QT.

Also I agree do not use your frag tank as QT tank. If the QTed fish or a coral has a disease, it then gets into your QT system. Now you have to figure out how to treat your frag/QT without damaging your corals or transfering the disease. But if you like that kind of work..... ;-).

[SunWyrm]

I'm going to be qt'ing my frags, and other such things when I finish my setup. Although I'm setting up a permanent qt, separate medication tank, and a frag tank is in negotiations as well. So I guess if you set up a permanent situation, it's possible, but I wouldn't use the same tank as a dedicated grow out when you aren't qt'ing - seems like it'd be too much of a hassle to move things back and forth whenever you got a new fish or to catch a qt'd fish in amongst your frags.

 

Also, as someone who has not used copper, what else is it good for besides ich?

 

Another thought, 15g is not very much space for new tangs for 8 weeks or more. Can you talk her into just a bit more?

[Ryan S]

QT treatments.

 

Does anyone always use a certain treatment regiment for new fish? Even if you don't see obvious parasites? (Often times you can't see them anyway, if they are tiny, or in the gills or under the skin, etc).

 

How about any of these?

 

Aquarium Solutions PraziPro

 

CopperSafe

 

Seachem Cupramine

 

Seachem ParaGuard

[Chad]

Take a look at Copps' posts in this thread http://www.wamas.org/forums/topic/44695-update-on-my-fish-new-qt-set-up-medications/page__st__25__p__376528__hl__copps%20+QT%20+Jan__fromsearch__1&?do=findComment&comment=376528

 

QTs don't have to be large, small gives you more control and makes large (up to 100%) water changes much easier. When I have a QT set up, I use a 10g (except for the very largest of fish, this size is more than adequate).

[Coral Hind]

Do not run prazi and cupramine together. See this thread: http://www.wamas.org/forums/topic/45920-prazipro-and-cupramine-dead-fish/page__view__findpost__p__384206

 

I don't worry about a cycle in the QT system as I use Prime and heavy skimming.

[Ryan S]

Take a look at Copps' posts in this thread http://www.wamas.org/forums/topic/44695-update-on-my-fish-new-qt-set-up-medications/page__st__25__p__376528__hl__copps%20+QT%20+Jan__fromsearch__1&?do=findComment&comment=376528

 

Thanks for sharing that thread Chad. I had missed it.

 

More questions:

 

1. Does the QT have to be cycled? Can I have a non-cycled QT that I want to keep from getting cycled?

 

2. Why did Jan use 2 tanks, 1 only for copper? Why couldn't I use 1 10g tank for 4 weeks and use whatever medication I need (but not prazi+copper at the same time per Coral Hind's link above)?

 

3. Paraguard looks like a multi-purpose treatment. I don't know how harsh it is. If it isn't as harsh as copper or prazi, and my new fish don't have obvious signs of major illness or parasites, could/should I use this as a general treatment for all new incoming fish?

[Coral Hind]

Here is a good article on hyposalinity therapy

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2007/6/fish

[Chad]

Thanks for sharing that thread Chad. I had missed it.

 

More questions:

 

1. Does the QT have to be cycled? Can I have a non-cycled QT that I want to keep from getting cycled?

 

2. Why did Jan use 2 tanks, 1 only for copper? Why couldn't I use 1 10g tank for 4 weeks and use whatever medication I need (but not prazi+copper at the same time per Coral Hind's link above)?

 

3. Paraguard looks like a multi-purpose treatment. I don't know how harsh it is. If it isn't as harsh as copper or prazi, and my new fish don't have obvious signs of major illness or parasites, could/should I use this as a general treatment for all new incoming fish?

 

1) Sure, but you will need to run it as a sterile tank and control ammonia with large, frequent water changes (hence my recommendation for a small tank).

 

2) Not sure, but Jan always has her reasons, maybe she will chime in. You can.

 

3) I am a subscriber to the nothing but prazi (given in food) prophylactically for deworming (since it's tough to observe worms, they are common - especially in wrasses, and prazi is relativly mild). QT is a time for careful observation, other medications can be added if you observe a need for them, but it is a generally stressful time for the fish anyway and there is less margin for error when working with meds. Why add to the stress unless you observe a need to do so?

[Mike Mann]

does a skimmer need to be used on a QT tank?

[Integral9]

A skimmer is not required, per say, but it does help oxigenate the water as well as remove waste. So it's helpful if you have one. If you don't have one, then make sure any power heads do a decent job of agitating the surface water to promote gas exchange or you can use an airstone with a small air pump.

[Jan]

Here's my thread. I learned much and got great advice from professionals. No need to reinvent the wheel.

http://www.wamas.org/forums/topic/44695-update-on-my-fish-new-qt-set-up-medications/page__hl__copps%20+QT%20+Jan

[Ryan S]

Okay. My 10g QT has been setup. I decided to go with a smaller, 10g tank, over a 29g tank, for 3 reasons. 1. space limitations. this is sitting on my dresser in the bedroom. We live in an apartment and a stand-alone 29g tank was simply not an option. 2. (the main reason) it will force me to not add more than 1-3 fish at a time. (as opposed to 20 at once). 3. cost. the 10g tank w/ hob filter was $30 at walmart. with the 50w heater and background, the total cost for the setup was approx. $30+$15+$5=$50.

 

 

 

I went with a 10g tank, hob filter, 50w heater, standard hood, maxi jet 900 powerhead (already had), and wrapped black background around 3 sides. I was not going to add a substrate, or plastic plants. I was thinking of add a small piece of pvc or 2 for the fish to swim through/sleep in/hide in? Is there anything else I need or should get?

 

Questions:

 

1. Should I add a large 3" piece of pvc (maybe 6" in length); a 3" pvc elbow; leave the 1.5" piece that's in there? What is the ideal # of pvc pieces and size. Is 1 piece fine? 2 better?

 

2. I had an extra maxi jet 900 sitting in a bin (230gph). is this okay to use for a powerhead or should I get something smaller like a maxi jet 400 (106gph) or a koralia nano (240gph - so i guess not smaller)?

 

3. I plan on adding my first 2 fish to the QT on July 1st. After a 1 month QT they will go into my DT on August 1st (which marks the end of a 12 week fallow period). Should I add saltwater to the tank today (May 13), and let the tank run with just water for 6 weeks before the fish are purchased, or should I leave the tank empty until July 1st and add the water and fish at the same time?

[CaptainRon]

I think a 10G will be a great choice for a QT Ryan! My thoughts on your questions...

 

1. Sure, add whatever you like. Hiding spots made of PVC would be great and will make your new fishes confortable.

2. I guess play that by ear. I have a Loralia nano 450 and it the flow is very broad. Conversly I think a MJ900 will be way too much in a small 10G tank. If you want to try the 450 Nano let me know, I just use it mix salt water now so you're welcome to try it whenever you'd like. I don't think you'd need much more than this small pump, if anything for a QT but I don't have any direct experience to relay to you.

3. You could start of the tank now with the HOB filter (minus carbon). Drop a few flakes of food in there daily and it should be good to go by the time your new fishes get there. Put your PVC pieces in there as well.

 

I'd get one of those amonia badges too.

Good luck with your new system!

 

 

[Ryan S]

Thanks Ron! I ran over to home depot and made this 3" pvc piece. It has a 2" outlet on the back plus 3" outlets as you can see in the front. Should be nice for them to hide behind or inside of.

 

I need an ammonia badge! I will hit up petsmart soon and grab one, my local petco didn't carry them.

 

[Ryan S]

Question:

 

If I wanted to treat all new fish... as if they have ich or anything else... just to be extra safe...

 

A: Should I?

 

B: Should I run a one month Cupramine treatment or a one month hyposalinity treatment?

[Chad]

A. No. IME, the best route is to do a few days to a week of heavy observation with no medical treatment (although I do use prazi in food). If I see anything then I treat appropriately and as soon as I notice it, but if I don't see anything then there isn't any reason to add further stress to the occupants (I am a HUGE fan of simple solutions are the best, any medical treatments obviously complicate the chores).

 

B. See A. for cupramine. Hypo is OK.