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proper way to reduce return flow


mchunger

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what's the proper method to reduce flow from your return pump back to the tank?

 

I vaguely recall reading somewhere that you don't want to just add a valve to restrict the flow as that would somehow mess with the pump. So would i add a "T" and then a valve off of that, dumping water back into the sump?

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what's the proper method to reduce flow from your return pump back to the tank?

 

I vaguely recall reading somewhere that you don't want to just add a valve to restrict the flow as that would somehow mess with the pump. So would i add a "T" and then a valve off of that, dumping water back into the sump?

 

I think most people use a valve on the outflow, not the inflow, of the pump.

 

The pump can't tell the difference between that and more head height.

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+1 Throttling the discharge of the pump will not hurt it. It is done in the industrial world all the time.

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Use some of the excess flow to power a reactor of some sort.

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Restricting the inflow can cause damage to the impellor and add microbubbles to the system by cavitation, though... That is probably what you may be recalling.

 

 

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Good point on the "pump can't tell the difference between a valve and head". I guess I'm over complicating things.

 

I just put a ball valve about 2" above my pump(Mag 5). It has been running like that for over two years with no issues.

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Thanks for the replies!! I'll be adding a ball valve on my outflow.

 

The addition of a reactor using the extra flow is a great idea as well. I'll have to figure out what I wanna add. Thanks for the idea!!

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I have mine in a tee with some going to the return and my skimmer. From the pump to a tee then a ball valve above that. From the tee to the skimmer with another ball valve. About 20% going back and the rest to the skimmer.

 

Return

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Ball Valve

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T-------Ball Valve-------Skimmer

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Pump(Mag18)

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What pump is it? Before deciding whether to add a shunt back to into the sump or a restrictive ball- or gate-valve, I'd take a look at the power consumption curve for the pump first (if it can be found). Many pumps consume less power when operating with less head pressure (most, but not all). This translates to lowered operational costs, less heat, and less wear and tear. Since a return pump runs 24 hours per day, savings from power efficiency can be substantial. I like to use a simple rule of thumb that a savings of 1W puts $1 back in your pocket over the course of a year if the device runs 24 hours per day. (That's actually a conservative figure nowadays. You'll save a little more with most power companies.) Thus, if you can use or operate a pump that saves you 50W, it's costing you $50 less per year to operate.

 

If you do use a restrictive ball-valve approach, then always put it on the output side and never on the intake side for the reason that Chad mentions above.

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The pump is a Mag7. I've briefly looked to see power consumption based on head pressure, but was unsuccessful in finding anything besides the standard head\gph charts.

 

 

 

 

What pump is it? Before deciding whether to add a shunt back to into the sump or a restrictive ball- or gate-valve, I'd take a look at the power consumption curve for the pump first (if it can be found). Many pumps consume less power when operating with less head pressure (most, but not all). This translates to lowered operational costs, less heat, and less wear and tear. Since a return pump runs 24 hours per day, savings from power efficiency can be substantial. I like to use a simple rule of thumb that a savings of 1W puts $1 back in your pocket over the course of a year if the device runs 24 hours per day. (That's actually a conservative figure nowadays. You'll save a little more with most power companies.) Thus, if you can use or operate a pump that saves you 50W, it's costing you $50 less per year to operate.

 

If you do use a restrictive ball-valve approach, then always put it on the output side and never on the intake side for the reason that Chad mentions above.

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