clearsky57 December 20, 2011 Share December 20, 2011 I am shopping for a Reverse Osmosis system.... I was looking at a 6 stage (100 gpd capacity) I think it was called Water General?? it sells for about $130. new.... any thoughts before I run my card???? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Ward December 20, 2011 Share December 20, 2011 I am shopping for a Reverse Osmosis system.... I was looking at a 6 stage (100 gpd capacity) I think it was called Water General?? it sells for about $130. new.... any thoughts before I run my card???? thanks $130 sounds too low and I'm not a fan of the 100gpd membrane. You want to be sure you have a dow filmtec membrane, and they don't make one in 100gpd. There are several features you want - pressure gauge to see where you're running as low pressure will reduce your product to waste water ratio and high pressure will damage your membrane (high usually isn't an issue unless you're running a booster pump). You want an auto shutoff valve (ASOV) so you can attach a float switch and let the system run to make water and turn itself off when you're done. You also want a reverse flush valve as flushing the membrane is occasionally required to maintain peak performance. A nice-to-have is a dual TDS meter so you can see the TDS after the RO and after the DI stage. After the DI is critical as you want to be sure you're getting 0 TDS. After the RO is important because you want to be sure the RO membrane is working and not exhausing your DI resin prematurely. Also be sure you're getting a filter pack that's set up for chloramines. Chloramines result in free ammonia in your product water (bad for fish) and they also destroy RO membranes. You should look into Air, Water, and Ice - they're a sponsor here and quite a lot of us have their systems. It's around $180 for the Typhoon III which is what I would recommend. The Typhoon III Extreme adds some of the nice-to-haves for an extra $50 or so. www.airwaterice.com - check their forum. I think there's a coupon code for 10% off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beatle December 20, 2011 Share December 20, 2011 DOW does actually make a 100gpd membrane, but it only has a 90% rejection rate, so you'll burn through resin pretty quickly, especially if your tap water is less than sparkling clean. I had an AWI setup years ago and loved it. I started with a Typhoon and later upgraded everything to a Typhoon Extreme. It would have been cheaper to start with the Extreme. Both made the same 0 TDS water, but maintenance requires a little more guesswork with the cheaper systems. I now have a pretty beefy unit from the Filter Guys and love it as well, but I preferred the one piece bracket from AWI. Buckeye Field Supply also makes good units as does Spectrapure. Brian already listed off most of the key features you'll want to look for. The remaining things that differentiate the good from the "so-so" units are the use of push-in connectors everywhere, the inclusion of the right hardware to hook it up to your water supply and drain lines, and a vertical DI cartridge (more efficient than horizontal cartridges). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firecrackerbob December 20, 2011 Share December 20, 2011 Ive never really been impressed by many of the vendors listed so far... anyway, I went with aquasafe systems and have not had any problems. http://www.aquasafecanada.com/store/home-reverse-osmosis-systems/maximus-ii-system any yes, make sure you get a dow filmtec with high rejection rate. I would also reccomend getting a in line TDS meter as an add on. I think BRS has one for around $30. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveoutlaw December 20, 2011 Share December 20, 2011 I would recommend against getting one from Bulk Reef Supply. I got one and every joint leaked. When I called them to explain what was going on, they pretty much said "sorry, but we don't believe you. We test every one...blah, blah, blah." Luckily I was able to take it apart and re-teflon tape all of the fittings. It still leaks a little, but much better than it was. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Annap729 December 20, 2011 Share December 20, 2011 (edited) Air water ice. Marissa's your girl. Hate to say its a no brainer, but there's something to be said for dialing a number for support, and within two rings THE person that supports you answers. That alone would make me pay extra (yet its cheaper). I bought the typhoon 3 extreme because of everyone's suggestions about needing everything and it being all jn one. My water is only 70-80tds at the tap so I bought a 150. Right now I'm getting 0TDS before the water even gets to the DI cartridge. I'm super pleased. Its the best of the best. I use every single extra that came with it except the TDS alarm. Call and talk to marissa-you'll buy one before the day is out; she's good. Edited December 20, 2011 by Annap729 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan S December 20, 2011 Share December 20, 2011 I am shopping for a Reverse Osmosis system.... I was looking at a 6 stage (100 gpd capacity) I think it was called Water General?? it sells for about $130. new.... any thoughts before I run my card???? thanks Everyone has a personal opinion on which RO/DI unit to buy. My recommendation would be the BRS 75 GPD 5 Stage Plus system for $180 shipped during the WAMAS Group Buy next week: http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/products/reverse-osmosis-filters-and-systems/reverses-osmosis-deionization-systems/standard-ro-di-systems/75-gpd-ro-di-5-stage-plus-system.html Here is a video comparing the BRS RO/DI units as well: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RubberFrog December 20, 2011 Share December 20, 2011 I have that one and it works great. No leaks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YBeNormal December 20, 2011 Share December 20, 2011 I really think having a 100GPD membrane is overkill for most people, especially since the 100GPD membrane has a lower reject rate (so your DI resin will exhaust faster) and it's easy to make the water up ahead of time anyway, negating the need for the additional 25GPD output. I agree with the recommended vendors being AWI, Buckeye, TFG and Spectrapure. I personally have the AWI Typhoon Extreme and highly recommend both it and the company. The unit works great and at a reasonable price (not bargain basement, but very reasonable for the features and quality). Most important though, AWI offers a lifetime warrenty on their products and they stand behind that warrenty. I've had a booster pump and a couple of other parts replaced over the years with no questions asked. They even replaced my ASOV twice in a row before we figured out that the issue was headspace on my part, I had left the DI bypass partially open, and they did not ask for payment or return of the ASOVs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Annap729 December 20, 2011 Share December 20, 2011 For me, I have very good water, so I won't exhaust my DI resin quickly. I'd suggest first testing your existing water as the burden on the system would help you understand the cost to operate as well as how high of a membrane you can get. For me, at 45 psi I can barely fill 40g overnight, which is about what I need in the event of any issues. Again, my RO side is already cleaning my water to 0TDS, so the 150 gpd works for me. You'll never get 100gpd from a 100gpd membrane. So I'm sure Dow and everyone makes good membranes, but if your water isn't crappy to start, then you'll be fine. I say for major infrastructure purchases like that, spend so that you don't have to spend again if you end up with a bigger tank. I'm running about 220 gallons between two tanks so for me I really need minimum 40 gallons overnight. The bigger membranes aren't that expensive and everyone is right- they let more through. But again, if you are inside of 100tds or so on your water, i believe youll have no issues at all. You should borrow someone's handheld tds meter and check your water where youll be installing it to see what the quality is like before you buy. $.02 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zygote2k December 20, 2011 Share December 20, 2011 I've been running a 25gpd membrane at 40 psi for many years. I monitor my TDS to replace cartridges on a regular basis. Slower is better for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clearsky57 December 20, 2011 Author Share December 20, 2011 OOOPS!!! I meant to mention to you all... I am on well water................ very low (5.6) ph.... very low (maybe 100) TDS............. I have many fresh water tanks, and have to buffer the water to make it better (maybe about 7.0 ph) and the fish like it better too.... I grow Orchids (actually breed and show them too) and they love the water but it does play havoc with my fertilizers..... sort of have to buffer the water before i add fertilizer or it tends to be too acidic..... Sooooooo does this change at all what I should be looking for???? the general consensus is either the dow, or the AWI extreme.... I just need to know now if I need to change the process because of the well water and low ph??? but,,, Thank you so much for the input folks.... I feel like I can make an educated decision after reading all of this.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zygote2k December 20, 2011 Share December 20, 2011 OOOPS!!! I meant to mention to you all... I am on well water................ very low (5.6) ph.... very low (maybe 100) TDS............. I have many fresh water tanks, and have to buffer the water to make it better (maybe about 7.0 ph) and the fish like it better too.... I grow Orchids (actually breed and show them too) and they love the water but it does play havoc with my fertilizers..... sort of have to buffer the water before i add fertilizer or it tends to be too acidic..... Sooooooo does this change at all what I should be looking for???? the general consensus is either the dow, or the AWI extreme.... I just need to know now if I need to change the process because of the well water and low ph??? but,,, Thank you so much for the input folks.... I feel like I can make an educated decision after reading all of this.... dow is just a brand name for the membrane. there are others like Filmtec. A 75gpd membrane is standard in the hobby. 100 gpd isn't as efficient, but it's fine as long as you need that kind of water output. Before you take the plunge on an AWI brand, look at Spectrapure systems and Aquatic Life systems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckeye Field Supply December 20, 2011 Share December 20, 2011 Here's a suggestion for you. First study up on these systems enough so that you have some idea of what you want in a system, ans some things you DO NOT want. Then shop for a system that meets your needs or a vendor who will make the system you specify. Not comfortable specifing just what you want? Work with a vendor who knows RODIs as used in the reefing world and is willing to help you. Here are some things to look for in a good system for this hobby: No more than 4 stages (sediment, carbon, RO, DI) unless you have specific water quality issues you want to address Standard-sized prefilters, membrane, and DI cartridge Brand name, high-rejection membrane Specifications provided for each stage Pressure gauge after the prefilters and before the membrane Thermometer TDS meter (handheld or in-line) DI bypass Vertical DI stage Refillable DI cartridge Aluminum bracket Quick connect fittings No water from pressurized storage container delivered to DI Flush valve Clear housings High-quality instructions written in clear English Customer support before, during, and after your purchase A vendor involved in your hobby Some things you don't want: horizontal DI stages a system w/o a pressure gauge a no-name membrane prefilters with no specifications provided a system that has been sitting on a vendors shelf for an extended period a system that takes non-standard sized filters a system that delivers water from a pressurized tank to the DI a system with compression fittings a system with a steel bracket Russ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad December 20, 2011 Share December 20, 2011 Hi Russ, Is the reason that you want a vertical DI housing to prevent channeling? Also, why on the steel vs. aluminum? Thanks, Chad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clearsky57 December 21, 2011 Author Share December 21, 2011 a system that delivers water from a pressurized tank to the DI Russ: do you mean from my well-pressuretank-house system??? also, many have said that 100gpd is not efficiant???? what size is??? I can use anything from 50-100 gallons in my water changes amongst my fresh water tanks as well. you speak of reading up and doing my homework..... well that is why I'm on here.... If I were a water specialist, I wouldn't be needing advise... What I am trying to do, is use others experiences to help me out to how or what I am going to buy... As far as something that was sitting on the shelf, I would have to beleive, that if folks on her reccomend a particular vendor, they would have a pretty good rating, and when I see that some say the support is as good as the sales end, then that is something I look for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad December 21, 2011 Share December 21, 2011 For pressurized tanks, he means something that holds a reserve of water after the RO filter but prior to the DI resin like http://www.ohiopurewater.com/shop/customer/home.php?cat=203&gclid=CLH52Yn5ka0CFUTc4Aodvz0FlQ (the first link that came up on google when I searched). In your specified range the 75 GPD is probably what you want to be looking at, the DOW and filmtec both have ~98% rejection rates. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beatle December 21, 2011 Share December 21, 2011 Some things you don't want:a system with a steel bracket I was with you all the way until this one. What's wrong with steel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan S December 21, 2011 Share December 21, 2011 I was with you all the way until this one. What's wrong with steel? Because it rusts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad December 21, 2011 Share December 21, 2011 I asked the same thing above because I am not sure I understand either... two reasons that I can think of: rust like you mentioned (although I am not sure how much of an issue that is with an RO unit that is generally well away from salt water and anodized or powder coated), and weight... some of these systems can get pretty weighty... Both of the reasons I thought of, though, don't really directly affect the operation of the unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beatle December 21, 2011 Share December 21, 2011 Shouldn't have a problem with rust if it's properly powder coated. Aluminum might be a "nice to have" but I wouldn't make or break a decision based on the bracket material. $.02. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firecrackerbob December 21, 2011 Share December 21, 2011 Why is sending water from the storage tank to the DI a bad thing??? I have had my system plumbed this way for years... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Novi December 21, 2011 Share December 21, 2011 Just to add seeing that your also on Well Water like myself YOU WILL NEED A BOOSTER PUMP! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clearsky57 December 22, 2011 Author Share December 22, 2011 Booster pump??? because of pressure? I have a 20 gal pressure tank on my house as it is... I wondered about tieing into my water line prior to the water going through the filter I have in line..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zygote2k December 22, 2011 Share December 22, 2011 Aquatic Life makes a pressurized 100gpd r/o system that is very nice. I use one and like it very much. Check it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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