100 gpd Oceanus ro/di

[Gilbert]

This is the unit I recently purchased. I haven't been able to find any information other then they stop selling this brand. Well, when I was purchasing this unit, I was told to hook it up a certain way. Last night I hooked up it as instructed and it produced some murky water and I was only get 20 psi on the meter. I did a water change last night and this morning saw that all my fish have ich now (bad water?). Today I went to go purchase new filters for it and as I was unhooking the canisters I realized that I was instructed wrong. Basically where the dirty water comes out I hooked it up to the sink so I was all backwards, anyway I put in the new filters and wired it correctly this time, and now I'm getting 50psi and Hopefully some clean water! I'm going to do a water change tonight hopefully with clean water to help my fishies out. Also I'm confused my new DI resin cartridge was black and after running it for 3 hours now and the whole canister is like a tanish/pink color, this doesn't seem right.

 

Here is what my ro/di looks like

 

 

http://www.3reef.com/forums/attachments/filters-pumps-etc/7368d1193793278-help-ro-di-plumbing-aquarium-010.jpg

[Origami]

Gilbert, you should get yourself a TDS meter, too. That will permit you to measure the TDS (total dissolved solids) in your RO/DI output. If you can get a "Dual in-line TDS meter," it will allow you to measure the TDS at two points. The points I normally measure at are at my RO membrane output and at the DI cartridge output (or, equivalently, at the DI input and the DI output). This allows you to see how both your membrane and your DI stages are performing.

 

As long as your membrane is performing well, there will be a substantial drop from the TDS of the incoming water source and the output of the membrane. The residual TDS is then picked up in the DI stage.

 

The DI resin, if it's a color-changing resin, changes color as it is used up. You see, DI resin has a capacity. That is, it can only hold so many ions before the resin is depleted and must be changed out. If your RO membrane is working well, the water coming out is low in ion content and the DI stage lasts a long time. On the other hand, if the membrane is not doing its job (and needs to be replaced), the DI resin may exhaust quickly. A membrane often lasts 2 years or more, but can be damaged by excess pressure or can dry out.

 

Like I said, color changing resin changes color as it's exhausted. Mine normally starts out dark in color and changes color toward a brown or tan color over time.

 

Do you have a TDS meter? Even a handheld one?

[TonyD]

Gilbert,

 

When you mix saltwater, do you let the saltwater aerate and mix for 24 hours? Mixing salt and freshwater creates a chemical reaction when it dissolves. Doing a water change with freshly made saltwater could burn your fish. Maybe some of the more experienced members can confirm this statement...I think I read it somewhere in a book or was told this.

[Gilbert]

Yeah I just read something about letting new mixed water aerate for 24 hrs, I'll try that this time. Yeah I understand about the DI resin being exhausted, but I just bought a new cartridge today, I don't see why the whole thing would be tan/pinkish

[Gilbert]

no tds meter, will get one soon though

[Origami]

Freshly mixed salt water is normally highly alkaline (high pH). It needs contact with air so it absorbs CO2 to bring the pH down to normal levels. That's why it's recommended that we aerate it, or let it "age."

 

If your membrane is bad, your resin could exhaust (deplete) quickly. If the membrane is really bad, you may not get much life at all out of your resin. It depends on what the TDS is going into the DI stage.

 

I'm not saying that this is what you have going on. Just saying that a TDS meter is a good thing to have to check how things are working.

 

If a member who has a TDS meter can swing by, then maybe they could check your input TDS, your RO (membrane output) TDS, and your RO/DI (DI stage TDS) measurements to see how the unit is working.

 

Sent from my phone using Tapatalk.

[Coral Hind]

Where are you located? Maybe a local reefer could stop by and make sure you have it setup correctly.

[Gilbert]

I'm located in like the Del Ray area. Anybody wanna let me borrow their tds meter for a sec?

[Coral Hind]

I have a dual in-line TDS meter you can have. If interested shot me a PM.

[Chad]

He has it set up correctly now, but the unit is missing a restrictor valve... Anyone know where to get one locally or have a spare 100 gpd restrictor?

[Gilbert]

lol So I think I figured out an alternative to the restrictor valve, I just took the waste water line and looped it into a knot to get the same flow your were talking about Chad! I got it restricted to 60psi. Pretty cheap fix

[Coral Hind]

I have a 600 milliliter per minute inline capillary flow restrictor valve. It is the size normally used on a 75gpd RO unit, but it may be better then your "knot" flow restrictor. Let me know if you want it.

[Chad]

haha, I suppose the knot would work... although I suspect either efficiency or the life of the membrane will suffer over time... I would take Coral Hind up on his offer!

[Gilbert]

Yes, did receive the restrictor valve from Coral Hind (thank you again). Haha yes, my ro/di unit doesn't look as ghetto now!