treesprite October 23, 2010 Share October 23, 2010 So, I got this tank and the holes are much lower than I expected them to be - they are about 1/3 rd of the way down, not "near the top" as I myself would define it. Now I am not sure what to do about the overflow, because the location of the holes messed up the plan. One question I have is, how close can the front glass of the overflow be to the bulkhead openings? I have plenty of glass from the 75g that I broke, to be cut any way I want it up to 4ft long pieces, so creative ideas would be appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad October 23, 2010 Share October 23, 2010 If I have what you are describing right, you just need to give yourself enough room to be able to install remove the bulkheads. So probably an inch or so, but i would test fit it to make sure its good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flowerseller October 23, 2010 Share October 23, 2010 just put a taller stand pipe for the overflow inside, a T outside and run a pipe up above the tank to silence it and the other part down to the sump. Like a custom durso Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveoutlaw October 23, 2010 Share October 23, 2010 Or, you could do an external coast to coast overflow made out of the old glass and use the existing holes for a closed loop. Not sure how many holes you have drilled, but that could eliminate the need for powerheads in the tank. Look at lanman's tank thread and check out his overflow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NemesisElite October 23, 2010 Share October 23, 2010 (edited) I too have this problem. My solution is like what flowerseller described. I'm going to have a T on the back side of the bulkhead with a cap at the top to make a modified durso, inside the tank I just have a 90 degree elbow and a piece of PVC cut to desired length to control the height of the water level. The alternative would be to order an overflow kit from www.glass-holes.com. There you get a slim overflow box, glass cutter if you want, you can get the box without a hole in it pre-drilled, which I recommend, short bulkhead, some PVC fittings to make a modified durso, and all you have to do is plumb to your sump. I'd do this but I'm being impatient and it's not as cheap as a couple PVC fittings and a bulkhead. Maybe in the future I'll order one. Also if you're really unsure if they are what your looking for, post on their forums and of you feel you need it you can custom order one. Good luck. Edit** I didn't read you wanted to build it yourself. Still look at glass holes to see how slim the box is in reference to the bulkhead and build yours to fit. If you need it I know petco sells aquarium silicone or obviously your LFS. Edited October 23, 2010 by NemesisElite Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hypertech October 23, 2010 Share October 23, 2010 How many holes are there? You could put a right angle street elbow in it and a pipe towards the surface for a herbie. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coral Hind October 23, 2010 Share October 23, 2010 Using the existing holes for a closed loop and drilling new holes where you want them sounds good. Do you have a picture so we can get a better idea of what you are talking about? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davelin315 October 23, 2010 Share October 23, 2010 Forrest, those holes are from closed loop. There was an internal overflow box in that tank (top to bottom) and it was drilled with a drain. We drilled the other holes for returns and closed loop at one of the FFE. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L8 2 RISE October 23, 2010 Share October 23, 2010 Forrest, those holes are from closed loop. There was an internal overflow box in that tank (top to bottom) and it was drilled with a drain. We drilled the other holes for returns and closed loop at one of the FFE. Different 75, the one you're thinking of broke . For the 75 my neighbors set up (the one's that you picked this tank up from, Forrest), the holes are at about the same height on the tank. We just put an elbow in on the inside and then cut a piece of pvc that we put into each elbow up to the surface so that we could adjust the level of the water to where we wanted it. Another option you could try is the "inbox" overflow box that coralhind set up on his tank and has a thread about somewhere on here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coral Hind October 23, 2010 Share October 23, 2010 Here is the "inbox" overflow thread L8 2 Rise mentioned. http://www.wamas.org/forums/topic/28815-inbox-overflow/page__view__findpost__p__252108 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treesprite October 27, 2010 Author Share October 27, 2010 I didn't have a chance to check the site. From what I was reading the other day, Calfo actually has recommended only 1" between the wall and front of a coast-to-coast overflow, because it thins out the water for even better surface skimming. So I went ahead and ordered my glass yesterday. Basically this is the same as last tank, but only 1.25" sticking into the tank instead of 3", and the returns will not be going through the overflow glass. I will not be drilling any new holes. Sam drilled a second hole for me 1.5". I thought the hole already in the tank was for a 1.5" bulkhead, but I was wrong, it's for a 1" bulkhead but had 1.5" pipe coming out of it, due to previous owner using PVC pieces instead of a tank bulkhead. I don't use powerheads. I have a WAV and have a 1587gph pump that I will now have to dial back even further, because that one hole is only 1". I don't know what made me get such a big pump before, because never have I been able to run it without dial it down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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