NemesisElite

For some reason I can't edit it, but new price $300 I really need to sell this tank!

This is the last thing that is keeping me in the hobby, I'm done for a long time :/ PRICE $350 OBO, can part out if someone wants the sump. Unknown make, glass, pre-drilled for drain only (I think its 1.5"), dimensions are W-24", L-36", H-18", basically 70 gallons, black painted back, light scratches that become invisible when filled with water, comes with a tall stand that measures W-25", L-38", H-48", I have doors for it but they aren't mounted permanently, I basically wanted it accessible from all 4 sides of need be, panels are removable and I couldn't decide what I wanted to do about the front (if I wanted to make a door or use magnets also.) They have one coat of stain but obviously can be stained more if you so choose. Stand is basically 90% complete, fine detailed cosmetics are all that needs to be done. It also comes with a never used custom sump made of acrylic from NAGA (originally $500 alone) which is designed to create total system gallons, fits the Eheim 1260 I originally was going to put in, has a large open area for a refugium, and can hold backflow in the event of a power outage.The dimensions of the sump are 24x16x34. This also comes with a brand new glassholes overflow kit, all plumbing and fittings (I was going flex PVC and flex hose for the return,) and an 18" fluorescent worklight that needs to be mounted. Stand, panels, sump, tank, bulkheads are all together, none of it will be parted out. I need it gone asap, please don't low ball. Can deliver but details need to be discussed. Everything is brand new except for the actually glass tank. I might have a few extra stuff I'd gladly throw in, I'm getting out of the hobby and I don't need any of this stuff. I was going to do a topless tank with a HQI light, supplemented with blue LEDs for color and pop. I'm open to any questions, can take any other pictures you might want, however its housed at my parents house and it may take a day to get the pictures you request. I need this tank gone asap, this is beach money! Sorry, the tank is dusty, I just wiped a small spot to show it comes off. Back of the stand (sorry, currently only picture I have.) Doors

**UPDATE 4/6** Tank and Stand - SOLD JBJ ATO combo - SOLD MP 10 - SOLD Koralia 2200 - SOLD Light Combo - $150 Nano Koralia - PENDING 550 Koralia - PENDING Marineland 400 emperor - REDUCED $25 Shockbuster - $20 Eheim 1046 - $30

**UPDATE** Tank and Stand - SOLD JBJ ATO combo - SOLD MP 10 - SOLD Koralia 2200 - SOLD Marineland 400 emperor - REDUCED $25 Shockbuster - $20 Eheim 1046 - $30 Nano Koralia - $10 Thank you

JBJ Auto top off pending to Novi

the tank right now is pending to mindeoo, if sale falls through with mindeoo, piper27 is next then omair Koralia nano is pending to Valeria Koralia 2200 - SOLD Koralia 550 has been ADDED to sale - $25 Thank you Der ABT

The entire light setup is about 10 months old

MP10 sold to khalid

I start a new career this month and will no longer have time for my tank. Prices are negotiable and only for sale to those who are able to pickup in fauquier, va. Upon request I can provide more pictures/information of products Rimless Acrylic 3/4" thick 36x24x10 w/ corner overflow build by NAGA comes with stand - $150 175w icecap ballast + Lumenbright mini reflector + 20000 ushio bulb - $150 Marineland Emperor 400 filter - $30 JBJ Auto top off + Tom aquatics aqua lifter + top off water container - $85 shock buster - $20 Eheim 1046 - $30 Nano Koralia - $10 2200 Koralia - $50 Thank you for looking

I just don't want to spend that much money on a powerhead and not be able to use it's full potential. I loved my mp10 but mp40 is just too much and WAY overkill

Hey guys I need help. My dilemma is that my tank is acrylic and rimless so it's 3/4" inch thick. I had an mp10 but because the walls are so think the mp10 wouldn't hold and I do not need an mp40. my dimensions are 36w X 24l X 10h. What I'm looking for is a powerhead (probably tunze) that's controllable and won't shoot water everywhere. The controllability part is NOT a must but a nice addition if possible. Ive never had a tunze or a problem with splashing water before so I'm clueless and don't want to end up with an over powerful powerhead Thanks in advance

I've done some searches online and it seems like everyone recommends Krylon spray paints to be safe to use inside the aquarium, but I can't find Krylon. I've gone to lowes, home depot, walmart, and thats about the extent of my search. I have some rust-oleum universal spray paint and I was wondering if I can use that? Its going to be used to spray paint the PVC return which will have about 1" of exposure in the water, that's it. I figure it shouldn't really hurt much but then again if it starts to break down and poison my tank, I could be in trouble. Thanks!

I too have this problem. My solution is like what flowerseller described. I'm going to have a T on the back side of the bulkhead with a cap at the top to make a modified durso, inside the tank I just have a 90 degree elbow and a piece of PVC cut to desired length to control the height of the water level. The alternative would be to order an overflow kit from www.glass-holes.com. There you get a slim overflow box, glass cutter if you want, you can get the box without a hole in it pre-drilled, which I recommend, short bulkhead, some PVC fittings to make a modified durso, and all you have to do is plumb to your sump. I'd do this but I'm being impatient and it's not as cheap as a couple PVC fittings and a bulkhead. Maybe in the future I'll order one. Also if you're really unsure if they are what your looking for, post on their forums and of you feel you need it you can custom order one. Good luck. Edit** I didn't read you wanted to build it yourself. Still look at glass holes to see how slim the box is in reference to the bulkhead and build yours to fit. If you need it I know petco sells aquarium silicone or obviously your LFS.

Hello, I just got home to find my new package from reefgeek to include ballast, bulb, reflector... and a sunlight supply female connection thingy... eek! I've searched the internet, I looked on reefgeek, icecap, and sunlight supply with no direction towards what I need to do to make this setup work. Here's a picture of what I've got: I assume I just cut off the female connection on the ballast, wire to the green white and black wires on the sunlight supply connector, and then plug it in to the fixture connection. When I wired up my brothers ballast you had to take off the cover on the ballast and all the connections were made inside the "box" of the ballast so there weren't connections exposed. So I dunno.... I just wanted to make sure before I went ahead and ruined something and of course reefgeek isn't open on Saturdays so its not like I can call them for any help right now either. Thanks.

First I want to apologize if this is the wrong place for this and if it is please move it to the appropriate area. I'm putting together a new tank and realized I wanted a bigger sump. Long story short I need A sump that is 24" long, 16" wide, 30" tall, with baffles. I plan on having the tank drain into one section where the skimmer will be, that dump into a fuge area, then that goes into a return section. I don't have the tools to make a sump and I'm hoping by going this route it's cheaper than custom ordering a sump. If someone is handy and wants to do this for me we can work out details and I'd obviously pay for supplies and I'd leave it up to you to get the correct material, I'd be willing to reward you with a case of beer or some monetary value. I'd say I will reward you in corals but unfortunately I don't have anything to offer at the moment. Like I said I'd gladly do it but I just don't have the tools, craftsmanship, or supplies. Thanks!

I plan on doing sand on the bottom. I currently have T5s on my 90 and have successfully kept everything I've wanted to include a carpet anemone on the sand. I definitely like t5s but since I'm turnin a new page in my tank setup I thought i would consider new options. Ahhhh I still don't know. Thanks for everyone who has responded so far.

Ah sorry I should have specified. It is 36" long, 24" deep, 18" tall, I think I said that right? Longest part which is left to right of the display, 36", front to back 24", top to bottom 18" I considered doing one good MH, but should I make it pretty intense then? Like a 250w... 400w? Or would it be better doing 2x150w mh? The more I think about it, the less I see myself doing LEDs. They are still just too new and they are so expensive. I realize in the long run they will probably be a better investment since you don't have to replace the bulbs for like 50,000 hours, but I feel like its still uncharted territory. Also should I do a pendant or is it worth buying a "system?" I plan on supplementing with atinic bulbs whether it be from T5, CF, VHO, LED, I don't know either. I haven't looked at lights in like 2 years. Thanks!

Hello. As some of you know I'm getting ready to kick start a new tank that I bought from phisigs a while back. The tank dimensions are 36 x 24 x 18, I plan on keeping a wide range of corals but mostly SPS. If I can't keep high maintenance SPS on the bottom of the tank, I'm not sweating it. I'm trying to keep the cost of the light to include the bulb in the initial purchase under $650, if its close I think I can bend a little bit. My main goal is for it to look great, grow well, and be a good investment. I'm honestly leaning towards LEDs but I don't know what is going to have good growth and look well. I was at the marine scene today and almost said screw everything else I want MH with radium 20k, but I also looked at their 30g tank with LEDs and just for fun Matt put 2 more blue led strips on it and it started to look halfway decent. But as far as I know you can't get LEDs to do the color temperatures you can with MH. I just cringe at the thought of having to spend $300 every 6 months on MH bulbs so I don't know. Convince me =)

So if I have the elbow pointed at the top of the water level and make a durso on the back side, will I still have the desired effect of quietness? I thought by having the elbow at the top it would make the flushing noise or sucking noise... or will the durso on the back correct that? Thanks!

Thanks for the replies. I've considered both of those and both problems that arise (which I forgot to talk about in the original post) is it will presumably make the water level as low as the hole is. I had hoped to have the water level as high as I could to the point where you don't see the waterline from the viewable sides.

Hello everyone, I'm happy to announce that I'm working towards putting up a new tank that has been on the back burner for the summer. Unfortunately I'm here today because I've hit a snag. My current tank has an in display overflow (reef ready tank) whereas my new tank just has a 2" hole drilled in the back of it. I've already come to terms that I'm going to have the return draped over the top, however I'm stuck on the drain portion. I currently run a durso in my 90g tank and love it. The previous owner of my new tank just had a 2" elbow angled up to the top of the water and then a straight pipe to his sump; he also had a 1200gph pump. My goal with this new tank is silence! So I'm here today to get suggestions on what I should do. Obviously I would prefer it to look not so ghetto, but I'm willing to sacrifice looks for sound. I should also probably mention that I only plan on using an eheim 1260 (635gph) so the 2" drain will not be even close to capacity in terms of flow, I've actually contemplated gating it down with (I don't know what they're called) downsized connections in the pvc. Here's a picture of the tank setup by the previous owner and you can see where he had the elbow in top left back portion of the tank. Thanks!

Yea unfortunately there is no way to remove the sump intact. I think three or four days of no fuge and no skimmer should be ok. My biggest issue is cleaning out the fuge portion. Nothing sucks more than trying to remove wet sand... Especially when it's full of bristle worms and in a tight area. I'm really just procrastnating now haha. As for the cat pee, hahahahahahahahaha. Im sorry but that really does suck. At least you caught it when you did rather than still fighting with it, who knee what affects it would have on a tank.

Will the three bulbs be enough for my anemone and clam? Thanks

I was just recently turned onto the PAR 38's (thx zygote)and have a few questions My 30g cube dimensions are L 20.5 x W 21 x H 18.5 I'll probably go with the 20k LED's, but how many should i get two? three? If I do get two will they both be strong enough for my anemone and clams? These two LED's WILL replace my lighting system (aquaticlife t5HO 4x24w) so i would like for them to light my whole cube, but my rockwork is just one large piece of LR in the middle so i want the LED focused in on the rock but i dont want the edges of my tank untouched with light (I dont want the "lightbox effect"). With that being said which angle optics would be best? thanks

how high do you have the bulbs from the water? my tank is L 20.5 x W 21 x H 18.5 would your same setup be alright on my cube?