Jump to content

DIY Frankenstein light fixture


zygote2k

Recommended Posts

Ever since getting PAR38's, I've been experimenting with the making of a wall mount light fixture that projects over the tank. I could buy a ready made fixture that looks nicer, but...

I work with a CNC cutter, so I cut out some 1/4" ABS to use as a base. I used ceramic sockets from HD at $6 each, 2 packs of lock washers/nuts @ $1.25 each, a roll of speaker wire @ $10, some nuts and bolts- $3, 2) pvc pipe brackets @ $3, 3/4" pvc conduit box @ $6, a 3/4" sweep @ $2, 3/4" pvc pipe $2, Decora switch and switch plate $6, lamp plug $2.

 

Version 1 was made for 3) PAR38 bulbs and was somewhat crude.

gallery_2631654_582_162534.jpg

gallery_2631654_582_447734.jpg

gallery_2631654_582_439968.jpg

gallery_2631654_582_359687.jpg

 

 

Version 2 is currently in use with 4) P38's and an Ecoxotic stunner strip.

gallery_2631654_582_206754.jpg

gallery_2631654_582_449747.jpg

 

 

Version 3 will be similar to V2, but with a side and top cover to hide the majority of the wiring and sockets. The black wire will also be inside the tube. It will also use 1" pvc because 3/4" bows under the weight. Notice the 'safety' fish line attached to the ceiling. V2 doesn't need the safety line, but I sleep easier at night knowing it's attached. It does keep the fixture closer to level though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It looks nice. Could you space the pars apart more so the are not blocking the LED strip? It looks like a good bit of the light is being lost.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It looks nice. Could you space the pars apart more so the are not blocking the LED strip? It looks like a good bit of the light is being lost.

The stunner strip doesn't have any optics so it spreads the light around almost too much. I thought the same as you did, but after running it, I realized that I might actually have to block more of the light on the sides and ends as it puts the light out into the room where it doesn't belong.

 

 

where did you get the par38 bulbs?

Nanotuner.com

Link to comment
Share on other sites

looks very nice Rob. Good job as always and next time i have some money sitting around burning a hole in my pocket i may consider converting to LEDs and i'll let you know :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ghetto nothing. That's a nice little fixture that you've assembled, Rob. I'm really happy to see that you've already put that ecoxotic LED actinic strip to work for you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rob, Could you make a skirt for the LED strip to keep the light from spilling out? I agree with Tom, nothing ghetto about it, you did a great job!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was thinking about using Gorilla Tape for a temporary skirt material. I use that stuff on an electric toothbrush underwater and it hasn't come off yet. I think it'll hold onto the plastic pretty well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use 3) 40's and a 60. The 60 widens the light envelope cosiderably. I use 40's on all the maintenance tanks so far because they pack the most punch.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am not sure than anything done on a CNC machine qualifies as ghetto!! Frankenstein, maybe, ghetto, no. Nice work, Rob.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...