Jump to content

how to tell if it's even


treesprite

Recommended Posts

(edited)

came out "off" with the other levels as well .... this little one, the angle/ruler one, and 2 different straight ones that are about 8 and 10"

 

It appears that the only way I can get a piece of wood for on top is to get one of those giant pieces of plywood and have it cut. The rim on the tank make it 19x49 instead of 18x48, plus wood dimensions are always like 1/2" shorter than stated.

Edited by treesprite
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I stayed up all night working on my stand!

 

I put the bottom frame on finally, and it wasn't at all easy. Lots of measuring and re-measuring and more measuring with practically every turn of every screw to make sure nothing got thrown off. I had to take screws out and re-do a few times because of having been too many hairs off. I *believe* it's as even as it's ever going to get. It's certainly very sturdy if nothing else. There is an anomaly in the wood of the upper frame that hopefully I can fix with a sander, or might have to get a planer to fix it.

 

I didn't realize that some of the plywood (from an old project last year) I already have is 3/4th" thick not the flimsy stuff (thought it was all 1/4th"), so if I can cut it straight, I suppose I can use that for the top. I need to put something around the edge of it because plywood edges are ugly - anyone got an idea of how to do that or what to use?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Forrest, you can use an iron-on wood veneer edge banding to cover those edges. You can probaby find a roll of the stuff at Home Depot or Lowe's for around $8 or so. I've seen two types in the stores: Birch and Red Oak edge banding. Select the one you want to use to best match the plywood color and grain that you're using. It normally comes in 3/4" width, so it will do nicely with the 3/4" stuff that you have. It can also be trimmed flush with a razor blade or sanded flush.

 

Other alternatives might require a little more effort, including using moulding to trim the edges.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Forrest, you can use an iron-on wood veneer edge banding to cover those edges. You can probaby find a roll of the stuff at Home Depot or Lowe's for around $8 or so. I've seen two types in the stores: Birch and Red Oak edge banding. Select the one you want to use to best match the plywood color and grain that you're using. It normally comes in 3/4" width, so it will do nicely with the 3/4" stuff that you have. It can also be trimmed flush with a razor blade or sanded flush.

 

Other alternatives might require a little more effort, including using moulding to trim the edges.

 

My first thought.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I saw that tape stuff yesterday, so I guess I'll have to look at it again. I thought about moulding, just not sure what to use. I wish I could find some kind of moulding that would serve to hide the lower trim of the tank.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

... I wish I could find some kind of moulding that would serve to hide the lower trim of the tank.

 

You should be able to. Just look in the lumber section. It's a touch more complicated if you want to miter the corners, but it will get you the look that you're seeking. The tape is just an inexpensive, quick, and workable solution. Depending upon your stand design, you may find it a useful option at the corners where your sheathing meets.

 

Here was the first stand that I built. Pretty straightforward and simple design. As you can see, I wrapped the top with some red oak lumber (subsequently stained), mitering the corners and routing the edges. I did this to hide the tank's plastic trim - just like you're thinking.

 

gallery_2631296_304_45593.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...