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hlem

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ALOT OF MY FISH ARE HAVING ICK....... SHOULD I TRY TO CATCH the heavily infected one and freshwater dip it? dont know what to do. help anyone?

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Nope, you'll only stress it out more. Leave it alone and keep it fed. Find out what's stressing it and correct the situation.

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Nope, you'll only stress it out more. Leave it alone and keep it fed. Find out what's stressing it and correct the situation.

 

not sure why they are so stressed... any ideas? too many fish? i have a 265gallon tank, about 20 or so fish. most are about 1-2in, 4-5 of them are 2-4in. they eat normally. i feed pellets, flakes, frozen brine and live brine. they still eat normally.

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Have you had a big temp swing? The only time I had a bad ick break-out was when I wasn't paying attention to the temp of the new saltwater I was using for changes.

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Have you had a big temp swing? The only time I had a bad ick break-out was when I wasn't paying attention to the temp of the new saltwater I was using for changes.

i dont think i do, i check it almost every night, except for the last 3-4nights, been on vaca. but usually it's 78-80, it's 80 right now with light out.

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I have a 265 and i have 24 fish. You dont have to many fish. I am not sure why or who told me this but some time back this person told me to be careful when buying Live Brine Shrimp. I was told that the water is really dirty in the Brine Shrimp tanks and really never get cleaned. I dont know if this is a factor or not but i just wanted to throw it out there. Are you hatching you own Brine Shrimp? Do you think this is what happened to your Yellow Tang?

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I have a 265 and i have 24 fish. You dont have to many fish. I am not sure why or who told me this but some time back this person told me to be careful when buying Live Brine Shrimp. I was told that the water is really dirty in the Brine Shrimp tanks and really never get cleaned. I dont know if this is a factor or not but i just wanted to throw it out there. Are you hatching you own Brine Shrimp? Do you think this is what happened to your Yellow Tang?

grhh, to think about it, it could be the brine.... i started feeding lots of brine in the past 2 weeks, store bought. i always ask, "does he eat" before buying a fish, and they feed it brine, and hence i buy it and the brine.

 

The yellow tang didnt show any sign of ick tho.

 

i'll stop the brine immediately.... but they eat it sooo much =(

 

how about keeping lights off? does that help?

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Unless it is gut fed brine, there isn't much nutricianal value in it.

 

I would feed spirulina, mysis, and nori to start.

 

I feed my fish about 10-15 different things, but you don't need to.

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Unless it is gut fed brine, there isn't much nutricianal value in it.

 

how can you tell which is which? i just buy those at the LFS

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how can you tell which is which? i just buy those at the LFS

 

Wow I guess you need to read your posts to see that you wacked some words up. Nutritional. lol

 

It would say on the package, vitamin enriched or something if it is frozen. I'm not sure since I have bought brine in over a year. Its a waste of money unless it is a new fish that I am trying to get to eat. Even then I buy the live stuff and mix is with frozen mysis, and then end up eating both.

This is mainly for my wrasses since some can be finicky eaters.

Edited by Sikryd
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Wow I guess you need to read your posts to see that you wacked some words up. Nutritional. lol

 

It would say on the package, vitamin enriched or something if it is frozen. I'm not sure since I have bought brine in over a year. Its a waste of money unless it is a new fish that I am trying to get to eat. Even then I buy the live stuff and mix is with frozen mysis, and then end up eating both.

This is mainly for my wrasses since some can be finicky eaters.

it's live brine

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Definetely not a good idea then as far as nutritional.

 

Tangs definetely benefit from having algae given daily. That will help with the ich as well.

 

I personally did a full QT for 8 weeks on mine, and all subsequent additions got QTed as well. Although that isn't easy, or the only way to deal with ich from what I have read. Which I think is the way to go in the long haul since it is supposed to keep your system ich free. I don't know either way for sure, or scientifically. I know it has worked great for me so far. I got tired of losing fish and dealing with ich.

 

Some people swear by feeding their fish good and it keeps the stress down, which keeps ich at bay.

 

I have read you can add rid ich - or something like that to kill it in your display and that it is safe in reefs, but I have no idea.

 

I would start off by giving them a varied diet, 3x a day if you can to help alleviate the stress, which will reduce the effects of the ich.

Good luck

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it's live brine

 

Live brine has very little nutritional value, UNLESS you feed the brine something before you feed the brine to your fish. For example, if you feed the brine powdered spirulina, nannochloropsis, or Selcon, their bellies will be full when you feed the brine to your fish. That makes brine shrimp VERY nutritious.

 

Good luck with the ich.

 

Jon

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Unless it is gut fed brine, there isn't much nutricianal value in it.

 

I would feed spirulina, mysis, and nori to start.

 

I feed my fish about 10-15 different things, but you don't need to.

 

+1

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IME live foods, fresh or salt is a good way to introduce pathogens.

 

Have your water tested by a couple of different test sets, theres bound to be something stressing them out to cause a tank wide spread.

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stop feeding live food

 

feed algae sheets for tangs (I would say a half sheet to a full sheet per day with 20 fish)

 

maybe try this http://www.brineshrimpdirect.com/c1/c3/Garlic-Flake-c45.html (I have used it everyday for the last two years)

 

keep temperature more stable

 

test water

 

what were the last few fish you added? what fish have the ick?

Edited by reefhunter
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cleen water, low stress = happy fish. I just had an outbreak on a tank I neglected. Lower stress and check params closly, and drop the live food for now

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(edited)

water are pretty much clean. all are 0, except for nitrate which is around 10-20. last few fish i've added before the out break was pair of black clowns, and a black and white heniochus. The clowns are fine, the heniochus are severly infected., my blue hippo got a little, my powder brown had a little, but seems to be ok now. my onyx is having an outbreak now. he's been in there for 3-4 months now. no reason he should have an outbreak of ick. i've stopped feeding the live, only flakes, pellets and frozen, and sheets. and only moon light is on. seems to calm the fish down when there is no light.

 

oh i've also added activated carbon.

Edited by hlem
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water are pretty much clean. all are 0, except for nitrate which is around 10-20. last few fish i've added before the out break was pair of black clowns, and a black and white heniochus. The clowns are fine, the heniochus are severly infected., my blue hippo got a little, my powder brown had a little, but seems to be ok now. my onyx is having an outbreak now. he's been in there for 3-4 months now. no reason he should have an outbreak of ick. i've stopped feeding the live, only flakes, pellets and frozen, and sheets. and only moon light is on. seems to calm the fish down when there is no light.

 

oh i've also added activated carbon.

 

IME, there is a reason that your onyx should have ick - you just added a severely infected Heniochus. Maybe I'm screwed up on my pathology but it just takes one infected fish to result is a tank outbreak and unless all fish are well-fed and unstressed, it's likely to keep resurfacing. Depending on the severity and you setup I would try to minimize stress, keep well fed, keep good parameters and stop adding fish until the outbreak stops.

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IME, there is a reason that your onyx should have ick - you just added a severely infected Heniochus. Maybe I'm screwed up on my pathology but it just takes one infected fish to result is a tank outbreak and unless all fish are well-fed and unstressed, it's likely to keep resurfacing. Depending on the severity and you setup I would try to minimize stress, keep well fed, keep good parameters and stop adding fish until the outbreak stops.

yep, doing the mentioned above for the last couple of days, checking parameters daily. feeding as much as the fish will eat, but they arent eating much =( only a few are eating well. the Heniochus is, =(, gone, he didnt make it. some other fish seems to be coming with ick now too. some got better, some got worse, that's the weirdest part, the hippo tang, is spotless, and eating everything i put in, but the powder brown an my gold strip marroon, are coming up with it now. WTH.... my dwarf angels seems to be doing fine, eat somewhat normally, but seems to be scratching their body on the rock once in while.

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ok, i've been reading more on reefcentral,

here is the article on RC, http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.p...88#post15624988

 

and i think i see what's going on in my tank. i think it is Brooknella disease. i didnt know about this disease, even tho it was similiar to ick (white spots), but is a type of ick i guess. http://saltaquarium.about.com/od/ichparasi...rooklynella.htm.

 

There is much i can do. this is so frustrating, this weekend i lost most of my fish. only hippo tang is fine, no sign or anything, and eating fine too. along with some wrasse, but havent see them eat, flame angel is coming up with spots now too.

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Sorry to hear you're having these problems. FWIW, while brook is a common dieases in wild-caught clownfish, it is far less common in our tanks than ich. I can't see your fish to be sure, but odds are very high you have ich, not brook.

 

Also, remember that the white spots associated with ich only appears 3-7 days after the fish has been infected. The ich is too small to see when it initially burrows into your fish, and only becomes visible as it grows and forms a blister on the surface of your fish. Then the ich drops off and goes dormant inside your tank for up to four weeks before repeating the cycle. This is why all your fish don't show signs of ich at the same time, even if they are all infected.

 

Good luck,

Jon

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Sorry to hear you're having these problems. FWIW, while brook is a common dieases in wild-caught clownfish, it is far less common in our tanks than ich. I can't see your fish to be sure, but odds are very high you have ich, not brook.

 

Also, remember that the white spots associated with ich only appears 3-7 days after the fish has been infected. The ich is too small to see when it initially burrows into your fish, and only becomes visible as it grows and forms a blister on the surface of your fish. Then the ich drops off and goes dormant inside your tank for up to four weeks before repeating the cycle. This is why all your fish don't show signs of ich at the same time, even if they are all infected.

 

Good luck,

Jon

thanks Jon, i'm sure it's brook cause of the slime on the fish. they start off with white dots like ick, but then it kinda spread out, (no longer dots, but like a splat), and a i see things come off the fish's skin, i.e. slime. and of course, some of the fish just die for no reason, no white spots of anything, just like the article said, kill in days or hours.

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