Nitrate reducer

[reefmontalvo]

Does anybody use or know about Nitrate Reducers? I'm talking about an actual machine used almost like a reactor, but with Bio Balls and Anaerobic food balls in the canister.

 

http://www.reefshops.com/aqua-excel-n1.html

 

And please no jokes. Unless there really funny. Not HAHA or HEHEE but LMAO type.

[jason the filter freak]

ask jamesbuf

[zygote2k]

I used an Aqua-Medic denitrator about 10 years or so ago. It was the type that had bioballs and food tablets and it worked great so long as the water in/out was very sloooooow.

[treesprite]

ask jamesbuf

I was going to say the same thing. I think he has experience with mutliple types of denitrators.

[jamesbuf]

Never used that specific kind, but the theory is the same. Keep an oxygen deprived environment, and the anearobic bacteria (similar to that found deep inside your liverock and lower levels of your DSB) will break down nitrate into nitrogen and oxygen gas. Be prepared to test the outflow everyday to get the reactor "commissioned". You have to slow the flow through the reactor to allow for the buildup of the right bacteria, and then you can slowly increase the flow through the reactor as the bacteria population grows. You HAVE to test at least every other day, AND check the outflow several times per day to make sure the water flow is constant. If the flow clogs and stops, the inside of the reactor become too anaerobic and starts to produce hydrogen sulfide (rotten egg smell!!!), which is BAD!!!

 

I stopped running my reactor in the middle of the last summer, because I thought it was messing up my pH. Turns out the low pH was caused by CO2 depression. I recently installed tubing so my skimmer pulls air directly from the outside, which has compeletly resolved my pH problem. I now plan on re-installing my sulfur reactor, but this time I plan on using an ORP probe to control the flow through the reactor. The ORP probe will read inside the reactor chamber, and if the O2 levels get too high, then my ACIII will shut down the flow of water into the reactor until the oxygen levels get low again. Very similar to how a pH probe can control the CO2 tank on a Calcium Reactor.

 

For help in setting up the reactor, you can use the instructions here:

http://www.midwestaquatic.com/MANUALS/SULF...ON%20MANUAL.pdf

 

Hope this helps.

[reefmontalvo]

Interesting almost like the phosphate reactor, I have a small pump attached to it and run about what I think 400 g/hr. IS that pump effective?

[jamesbuf]

Interesting almost like the phosphate reactor, I have a small pump attached to it and run about what I think 400 g/hr. IS that pump effective?

 

 

Actually nothing like a phosphate or media reactor. The flow through a sulfur reactor is measured in drops per second, waaaay slower than a media reactor. Plus a media reactor is using a chemical/mechanical reaction to absorb a desired substance out of the waterl. A sulfur reactor is relying on natural biological processes to reduce nitrates.

[reefmontalvo]

Never used that specific kind, but the theory is the same. Keep an oxygen deprived environment, and the anearobic bacteria (similar to that found deep inside your liverock and lower levels of your DSB) will break down nitrate into nitrogen and oxygen gas. Be prepared to test the outflow everyday to get the reactor "commissioned". You have to slow the flow through the reactor to allow for the buildup of the right bacteria, and then you can slowly increase the flow through the reactor as the bacteria population grows. You HAVE to test at least every other day, AND check the outflow several times per day to make sure the water flow is constant. If the flow clogs and stops, the inside of the reactor become too anaerobic and starts to produce hydrogen sulfide (rotten egg smell!!!), which is BAD!!!

 

I stopped running my reactor in the middle of the last summer, because I thought it was messing up my pH. Turns out the low pH was caused by CO2 depression. I recently installed tubing so my skimmer pulls air directly from the outside, which has compeletly resolved my pH problem. I now plan on re-installing my sulfur reactor, but this time I plan on using an ORP probe to control the flow through the reactor. The ORP probe will read inside the reactor chamber, and if the O2 levels get too high, then my ACIII will shut down the flow of water into the reactor until the oxygen levels get low again. Very similar to how a pH probe can control the CO2 tank on a Calcium Reactor.

 

For help in setting up the reactor, you can use the instructions here:

http://www.midwestaquatic.com/MANUALS/SULF...ON%20MANUAL.pdf

 

Hope this helps.

 

 

Very good stuff, I think I can make something liek this work. At the current moment the nitrates are fine being 20ppm or less I will have to check. Is this a good system to have on a 75 gallon tank?

[jamesbuf]

Very good stuff, I think I can make something liek this work. At the current moment the nitrates are fine being 20ppm or less I will have to check. Is this a good system to have on a 75 gallon tank?

 

 

20ppm is fine by my standards. I've seen many many successful tanks with those level of nitrates. Because of my fish addiction, my I struggle to keep my nitrates around 40-50ppm, even with a large amount of cheato, a sump filled with extra liverock, and large water changes. I simply have too many fish and waste for my system, which is why the sulfur reactor works great for me. I'm actually experimenting with Prodibio right now, so see if I can keep my nitrates down to acceptable levels with that alone. Seems to be working, as my nitrates have been steadily declining over the last 3 weeks. Most of my corals are responding in a positive way as well.

[reefmontalvo]

Glad to know I was doing fine. I remember some talk about tryn to reduce nitrates and I was doing vodka dosing (which has been working) and I was thrown on the cross for tryn odd or not so normal methods. Thank you for making me aware that my nitrates are in the "Ok" range. I mean the phosphates are undetectable along with ammonia and nitrides. PH is also in the normal range. I notice lots of mention of water changes. To be honest the other day was the first time I ever changed water and that was only to reduce the salinity since I noticed it did rise with the magnesium dosing.

[treesprite]

20ppm is fine by my standards. I've seen many many successful tanks with those level of nitrates. Because of my fish addiction, my I struggle to keep my nitrates around 40-50ppm, even with a large amount of cheato, a sump filled with extra liverock, and large water changes. I simply have too many fish and waste for my system, which is why the sulfur reactor works great for me. I'm actually experimenting with Prodibio right now, so see if I can keep my nitrates down to acceptable levels with that alone. Seems to be working, as my nitrates have been steadily declining over the last 3 weeks. Most of my corals are responding in a positive way as well.

Hijacking... Is it just that the corals are more colorful, or are they growing faster? Even with my nitrate problem, my couple of SPS frags are kind of brownish but they are happily encrusting on my LR and growing and have good extension.

[reefmontalvo]

My nitrates stay pretty steady at 20ppm only saw them at around 40-80 once then it went away after I removed a huge chunk of cheato. Do not know why. Right now I'm in the process of tryn to get growth form the corals and I thought the nitrates were high and I just happen to see the device and thought let me see who has one. LOL

[jamesbuf]

Hijacking... Is it just that the corals are more colorful, or are they growing faster? Even with my nitrate problem, my couple of SPS frags are kind of brownish but they are happily encrusting on my LR and growing and have good extension.

 

 

My nitrates stay pretty steady at 20ppm only saw them at around 40-80 once then it went away after I removed a huge chunk of cheato. Do not know why. Right now I'm in the process of tryn to get growth form the corals and I thought the nitrates were high and I just happen to see the device and thought let me see who has one. LOL

 

 

To me, your phospate levels are much more important as far as growth goes. I'm sure having higher nitrates contributes to decreased growth somewhat though. I've noticed a great change in color when I have lower nitrates. After my sulfur denitrator was fully "commissioned" and breaking down nitrates, I took my refugium offline. Like an idiot, I didn't think about the impact this would have on my phosphate levels. For weeks corals looked the best they had ever looked, but the growth hadn't been very good. I then checked the phosphate levels and they were in the high range. Not saying this is a set in stone rule, and I'm sure there's plenty of people who will argue with me, but this had been my experience. Low nitrates = increased polyp extension and color. Low phosphates = increased growth. Still trying to work on having both at the same time

[CHUBAKAH]

Sounds like your in the need of Zeofit or Neozeo. Both medias with their counterparts work really well at getting rid of Nitrate's and Phosphates.

[jamesbuf]

Sounds like your in the need of Zeofit or Neozeo. Both medias with their counterparts work really well at getting rid of Nitrate's and Phosphates.

 

 

I was going to start that system, but was turned off by all the daily dosing. I'm currently trying Prodibio since the dosing is at most weekly, if not every other week. I'm seeing pretty good preliminary results, but its only been 2.5-3 weeks thus far. If I don't see the results I'm hoping for, then I'm going back to the sulfur denitrator and will run GFO for phosphates. I'll still run my fuge too. It was dumb of me to stop running it last time.

[CHUBAKAH]

I was going to start that system, but was turned off by all the daily dosing.

The daily dosing is only the first two weeks. After that you cut it back to your needs.

 

Besides that, that's what dosing pumps are for.

[reefmontalvo]

Sounds like your in the need of Zeofit or Neozeo. Both medias with their counterparts work really well at getting rid of Nitrate's and Phosphates.

 

 

Are these liquids you add the the water? Or are they actual units that run like reactors.

[CHUBAKAH]

 

 

Are these liquids you add the the water? Or are they actual units that run like reactors.

Neozeo and Zeofit are medias you add to a reactor.

 

Because I use Neozeo I also add two liquids you add to the water which are Microbactor7 and then two weeks later you start Biofuel. Both are cut back after that depending on your water perams, and you just maintain after that adding 25% new media every 4 weeks or so.

 

You can elimanate any type of phosban, or charcoal as well which helps keep your cost around the same if you use that method.

 

I'd recommend reading up on the NeoZeo system if this is something your considering. There is a thread in this section on it.

[reefmontalvo]

Funny you say that. Right after I posted I did a quick search on the net found a site that had Technical information on NEOZEO and explained this product is used in conjunction with MicoBacter7. Were did you pick your chems? Or will I have to order online?

[zygote2k]

Why not go the simple, easy, and inexpensive route and do a deep sand bed? I have one in my sump and it works great! No expensive equipment, no extra pump, no extra electric use, no problems.

[CHUBAKAH]

Funny you say that. Right after I posted I did a quick search on the net found a site that had Technical information on NEOZEO and explained this product is used in conjunction with MicoBacter7. Were did you pick your chems? Or will I have to order online?

The Aquarium Company.

 

Sean can also break down the entire system, and explain it all. There are about 30 people that I know of that are now running this type of setup. Some are now parting with calcium reactors completely, and going full tilt dosing, but that's another topic...

 

 

Why not go the simple, easy, and inexpensive route and do a deep sand bed? I have one in my sump and it works great! No expensive equipment, no extra pump, no extra electric use, no problems.

Deep sand beds don't always work. Ask Lanman, or Highlandreefer.

[reefmontalvo]

Great I will be sure to stop by there and talk with him in person. What is your name, sir? That way I can tell him you recommened me to there shop.

 

I also have a DSB in my fug but I feel it is not handling the bio load as much as it should. And I noticed a huge difference when I started combining carbon and phosphate sponge in a reactor. Will I have to get rid of my carbon when I start this new system?

[CHUBAKAH]

Great I will be sure to stop by there and talk with him in person. What is your name, sir? That way I can tell him you recommened me to there shop.

 

I also have a DSB in my fug but I feel it is not handling the bio load as much as it should. And I noticed a huge difference when I started combining carbon and phosphate sponge in a reactor. Will I have to get rid of my carbon when I start this new system?

Tell him Mark sent ya.

 

Carbon no if you don't want to, but phosphate remover needs to go. I personally stopped using carbon, and my water is right now the best it has ever been, not to say I won't add it later down the road.

 

Here is a good thread on RC with people using the system and posting their results.

 

The only negative I have read, is from people not following the directions. Everyone else seems quite happy.

[reefmontalvo]

The following recommendations are based upon extensive testing and will produce

the best results in most aquaria:

 

Weeks 1 and 2: Place 200 g each week of NeoZeo for each 100 US-gallons (378.5 L) in

the entire aquarium system into an appropriate media reactor; adjust the rate of water

flow through the reactor to ~25 gph (94.6 lph). Add 2.5 ml MicroBacter7 per 100 USgallons

daily.

 

Weeks 3 and 4: Add 200 g each week of NeoZeo for each 100 US-gallons (378.5 L) in

the entire aquarium system into the media reactor; increase water flow through the

reactor to ~50 gph (189.3 lph). Add 1 ml MicroBacter7 and Reef BioFuel per 100 USgallons

daily.

 

Week 5: Add 200 g of NeoZeo for each 100 US-gallons (378.5 L) in the entire aquarium

system into the media reactor; increase water flow through the reactor to ~100 gph

(378.5 lph). Add 1 ml MicroBacter7 and Reef BioFuel per 100 US-gallons daily.

 

Once the first 5 weeks of usage has passed, adjust the dosage of MicroBacter7 and Reef

BioFuel according to the appearance of the system, the inhabitants, and as dictated by

the water parameters. Refer to the instructions on each of the afore-mentioned

supplements

Edited October 26, 2008 by reefmontalvo

[CHUBAKAH]

 

I guess you have to remove and replace new media in the reactor each week for five weeks. What about after week 5 you just dose with MicroBacter7?

Actually your not replacing, your adding more to the system the first 4 to 5 weeks. After that I believe you replace about a 1/4 total each month. For me the cost of the media is about 5 bucks month for my 240 gallons.

 

After week 5 you adjust to your needs. I dose now [in my 7th week] 5ml of microbacto7 a week, and 5 ml of biofuel every other day. The biofuel is your carbon dosing.