lanman April 20, 2008 Share April 20, 2008 Now that I actually have my CA reactor running, and the pH down to 6.9 ... A. How much effluent would be typical? A steady stream? Slow drip? Fast drip? B. How long would it typically take before I could see a difference in ALK? Thanks, bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grav April 20, 2008 Share April 20, 2008 Bob, The faster you drip, the more bubbles you can add while keeping in your target PH = more CA and ALK. The faster / more = the sooner you see a change in ALK and CA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ctenophore April 20, 2008 Share April 20, 2008 Now that I actually have my CA reactor running, and the pH down to 6.9 ... A. How much effluent would be typical? A steady stream? Slow drip? Fast drip? B. How long would it typically take before I could see a difference in ALK? Thanks, bob Bob, For a 240, try starting with about 100-120 mL/min of effluent at pH 6.8. Watch your tank pH if your tank Alk is low- that much effluent may cause your tank's pH to fall until Alk increases. If you have the ability, a dual-pH controlled system is ideal. Two pH probes to control CO2 injection: one probe in reactor, set to 6.7-6.8, and the other in-tank set to turn off CO2 if tank pH falls below ~7.7 Just keep an eye on both tank pH and alk while starting out until you get comfortable with how your reactor functions. Hope this helps Justin Oh, you should see Alk move up .3-.5 DKH/day P.P.S: if you are using the schuran chunky style reactor media, I recommend a reactor pH of 6.3-6.4. Adjust your effluent rate accordingly, as it will be much higher in alkalinity. Maybe 50-60 mL/min for a lightly stocked 240. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandy7200 April 20, 2008 Share April 20, 2008 If the reactor is tuned correctly then you shouldn't see your alk move at all Here is some good discussions: http://www.wamas.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=9103 http://www.wamas.org/forums/index.php?show...amp;hl=effluent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanman April 21, 2008 Author Share April 21, 2008 If the reactor is tuned correctly then you shouldn't see your alk move at all Here is some good discussions: http://www.wamas.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=9103 http://www.wamas.org/forums/index.php?show...amp;hl=effluent But I want it to move at first... it is pretty low - around 7 dkH. Best I could do with the kalk reactor alone. It's been running more or less properly all day today - and no sign of increased alkalinity; so I'm not too worried about it getting out of control. I do have my AC3 set to turn off the CO2 if tank pH drops below 7.7. bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandy7200 April 21, 2008 Share April 21, 2008 But I want it to move at first... it is pretty low - around 7 dkH. Best I could do with the kalk reactor alone. It's been running more or less properly all day today - and no sign of increased alkalinity; so I'm not too worried about it getting out of control. I do have my AC3 set to turn off the CO2 if tank pH drops below 7.7. bob Lets start over. Initial Tank Alk: 7dkh Initial Effluent Alk: ???dkh (test your effluent) Initial Effluent Flow: ???ml/min (measure your effluent) The only way to dose is to first determine how much you use. The only way to determine how much you use while the reactor is actually running is to perform these steps. Wait 24 hours before testings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flowerseller April 21, 2008 Share April 21, 2008 Above is the true starting point to dial it in correctly. 24hrs or less is not really a good point to base much on starting up a new reactor. This does not apply to testing points along the way. We used to tell people starting out that a good ROT was to have 1 bubble to every 10 drips. It holds pretty true to see results but must be measured. If you're anxious to get ALK where you want it, add 2 parts to get there and then dial the reactor in as above to maintain it. A guy like you with as many awesome corals wants to go slow and steady. post up to #'s later Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ErikS April 21, 2008 Share April 21, 2008 Above is the true starting point to dial it in correctly. 24hrs or less is not really a good point to base much on starting up a new reactor. I would agree with that, more like 48 - 72hrs before you see the "standard" rate of production from a given setting. But heck, that's 1/2 the fun of a CA reactor - a simple device that can be made as complex as you want it..................few of our devices offer such bang for the buck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rascal April 21, 2008 Share April 21, 2008 Agree with all above I think. Easiest and safest way is to try to get it dialed in so that Alk input = Alk consumption. Then use 2-part to raise Alk to where you want it. Much less chance of overdoing things that way, and much easier to get your Ca reactor to the "set and forget" point, which is really the best part of having one IMO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanman April 21, 2008 Author Share April 21, 2008 Above is the true starting point to dial it in correctly. 24hrs or less is not really a good point to base much on starting up a new reactor. This does not apply to testing points along the way. We used to tell people starting out that a good ROT was to have 1 bubble to every 10 drips. It holds pretty true to see results but must be measured. If you're anxious to get ALK where you want it, add 2 parts to get there and then dial the reactor in as above to maintain it. A guy like you with as many awesome corals wants to go slow and steady. post up to #'s later I'm trying to imagine how much two-part I need to get my 240 up to 11dkH and 400 CA from 7/300. I buy the big bottles, but usually only one set at a time! Tonight I will attempt to measure the Alkalinity of the effluent and the amount. And see if it has made any measurable difference yet. bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandy7200 April 21, 2008 Share April 21, 2008 (edited) I'm trying to imagine how much two-part I need to get my 240 up to 11dkH and 400 CA from 7/300. I buy the big bottles, but usually only one set at a time! Tonight I will attempt to measure the Alkalinity of the effluent and the amount. And see if it has made any measurable difference yet. bob I personally wouldn't sweat the 2 part right now. You are going to overshoot the ca reactor, everyone does. Just some quick math shows that on your 300 gallons of water with a lower (safer) effluent dkh of 16 and a flow rate of 1.5 oz/minute you will have added 1dkh of alkalinity to this system in a day, subtract the alk that your system uses (above and beyond what the kalk can maintain) and in about a week your at the numbers you want. This is based off several assumptions I am making so you need to do the test described above to truly dial it in. Edited April 21, 2008 by dandy7200 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ErikS April 21, 2008 Share April 21, 2008 .........Just some quick math shows that on your 300 gallons of water with a lower (safer) effluent dkh of 16 and a flow rate of 1.5 oz/minute you will have added 1dkh of alkalinity to this system in a day, subtract the alk that your system uses (above and beyond what the kalk can maintain) and in about a week your at the numbers you want....................... As he points out, it's just not that complicated & it's doesn't take all that much It takes some time to reach an equilibrium, but that's what you want...........slowly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ctenophore April 21, 2008 Share April 21, 2008 Keep in mind you can't accurately measure the effluent alkalinity with any hobby test kit without diluting at least 4:1 with distilled water first. My method of setting a reactor is to pick an effluent rate and concentrate on making sure my feed pump consistently delivers that rate 24/7. That can be one of the trickiest parts of running a reactor IME, unless you are using a high end dosing pump to feed it. Then, set pH in the reactor with the AC3. Forget about CO2 bubble rate, let the AC3 do the work. Obviously, don't overdo the bubble rate on purpose, just open the needle valve at a little higher than it needs to be. You can test effluent alkalinity but be aware that your result may not be accurate. Just watch tank alk every 24h for a week or so, and see what kind of trend you're getting. Let's say your effluent is rock solid at 100 mL/min. You may find that at pH 6.8, your alk increases by .3 DKH/day. Once it gets where you want it, you might set pH to 6.9. You'll find that as your tank alk increases, so will the consumption rate as things start to grow faster. Anyhow, there are as many different ways to do it as there are permutations of the many variables involved with a reactor. This one works for me, but it may not be the simplest depending on your equipment or patience level. As everyone above said, slow is good with these things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanman April 21, 2008 Author Share April 21, 2008 I personally wouldn't sweat the 2 part right now. You are going to overshoot the ca reactor, everyone does. Just some quick math shows that on your 300 gallons of water with a lower (safer) effluent dkh of 16 and a flow rate of 1.5 oz/minute you will have added 1dkh of alkalinity to this system in a day, subtract the alk that your system uses (above and beyond what the kalk can maintain) and in about a week your at the numbers you want. This is based off several assumptions I am making so you need to do the test described above to truly dial it in. Good guess... Near as I can tell - I am doing 20 ml/min at 16.8 dkH. If I'm using the calculator correctly - that should add about .5 dKH per day. So... the question - if my tank is capable of using more than that .5 plus what I'm adding from the kalk reactor (i.e. - it has been starving) - will I just never see it increase? I'll be happy with a slow increase ... if I see NONE in a couple of days, do I need to turn the CA reactor up a notch?? bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandy7200 April 22, 2008 Share April 22, 2008 Good guess... Near as I can tell - I am doing 20 ml/min at 16.8 dkH. Not a guess really, I told you where to set the ph on your controller If I'm using the calculator correctly - that should add about .5 dKH per day. Yup So... the question - if my tank is capable of using more than that .5 plus what I'm adding from the kalk reactor (i.e. - it has been starving) - will I just never see it increase? I'll be happy with a slow increase ... if I see NONE in a couple of days, do I need to turn the CA reactor up a notch?? bob If it is dialed in correctly yes, your tank will stay stable. This is good because you will have learned how much effluent you need to dose .5dkh to your tank. If you want to raise your tanks alkalinity by .5dkh a day, you simply open the effluent valve and dose 40ml/min. If you want to lower your system alkalinity by .25dkh/day then turn down the effluent to 10ml/min. First things first though, you need to know exactly how much your adding (you figured this out already) and what effect it has on your system alkalinity (measure your alk every 48 hours) only when it is stable (dialed in) can you start manipulating the reactor to get it to SAFELY make changes to your water chemistry. Be patient, takes about a month to learn how this all ties together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaironman April 23, 2008 Share April 23, 2008 Saw this simple calculator, place link here; hopefully, you can find it useful. http://www.2partcalculator.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanman April 23, 2008 Author Share April 23, 2008 Saw this simple calculator, place link here; hopefully, you can find it useful. http://www.2partcalculator.com/ While I have everyone's attention... where does one get a CO2 tank refilled? I live in Manassas. bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaironman April 23, 2008 Share April 23, 2008 http://www.robertsoxygen.com Sterling, VA 45000 Underwood Lane #N, 20166 (703) 471-9586 (703) 471-9638 (fax) Fairfax, VA 2929 Eskridge Road #A, 22031 (703) 698-5322 (703) 204-2913 (fax) Manassas, VA 8607 Quarry Road, 20110 (703) 369-0400 (703) 631-8264 (fax) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanman April 24, 2008 Author Share April 24, 2008 http://www.robertsoxygen.com Sterling, VA 45000 Underwood Lane #N, 20166 (703) 471-9586 (703) 471-9638 (fax) Fairfax, VA 2929 Eskridge Road #A, 22031 (703) 698-5322 (703) 204-2913 (fax) Manassas, VA 8607 Quarry Road, 20110 (703) 369-0400 (703) 631-8264 (fax) Awesome... do you just trade it for a full tank? Or wait while they fill it? bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbartco April 24, 2008 Share April 24, 2008 trade Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grav April 24, 2008 Share April 24, 2008 refill Comes out ICE cold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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