Jump to content

RO/DI for dummies


zotzer

Recommended Posts

Just got my RO/DI unit. They forgot to ship the connectors, and are sending them out today. In the mean time, I was looking at it, and the blue tubing on the DI unit is currently installed in the "IN" port. I don't need it in the "IN" port, as that will come directly from the RO unit and is already attached.

 

I want to remove the tubing from the "IN" port on the DI, and move it to the "OUT" port. Do I just remove the little clip and yank really hard to get it out? I don't want to break it, so I thought I'd ask here before I do something I regret.

 

Thanks!

Tracy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmmm.... what exactly would those discounts be or be on, do you know?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Generally, if there are bulk prices (like staggered pricing based on how much you buy), when I log in, I only see the bulk (lowest) price for most items.

 

Tracy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Maybe it's only for the people who were in the group buy then.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Maybe it's only for the people who were in the group buy then.

 

I believe you have to sign up during that week that they offered the whole sale price to club members. If the minimum members are met, then that discount stays with the members after that week ends.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay...RO/DI for dummies question #2.

 

I've read that these units are not necessarily efficient off the bat....that there is a "break in" period if you will, and many people produce some amount of water before hooking up the DI unit (so as not to spend it prematurely).

 

How many gallons should I run through as "waste" before hooking up the DI?

 

Tracy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Push the little collet in, and pull the tubing out.

I have a little device to do, but usually just use fingers.

I suppose you wear yellow gloves when washing dishes too huh?

 

 

Tracy,

I always unhook the tube right before the RO membrane and flush until clear when new or with replacement pre filters. I hear there's a cute little tool for that!

Then I run about 5-10g of water through the whole thing before collecting for use.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The RO membrane is the thing on top, right?

 

And by running clear, can I assume that means that the carbon needs a rinse and it will run a little dirty at first?

 

Thanks for your help!

T

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tracy,

 

Just off the topic for a bit. Do you know what your county water authority use to disinfect the water, if it's chlorine or chloramine? Reason I ask is that might affect the effectiveness of your RO/DI. As I understand it, not all RO/DI filters chloramine. I just got off the phone with the water authority in our area and it turns out that there is a good probability that our water has been treated with chloramine for the past 6 months along with free floating chlorine flush between April through June. To be sure, the water authority is sending someone out next week to test our water before and after the RO/DI filtration to test the chloramine level. If there is a high level of chloramine after the filtration, then I can take the next step from there. Anyway, I just want to bring it to your attention.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Maybe it's only for the people who were in the group buy then.

 

 

This is correct. You had to take part during the week WAMAS had the designation. If the item is something like the SpectraPure Litermeter III you do not get a discount. Generic/bulk items is where the discount is.

 

I was expecting the discount after the one week special to be less than the 'wholesale' price afforded to us. But, it appears the special pricing we have now is the wholesale price. :cheers:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The RO membrane is the thing on top, right?

It could be but it's the canister that will have THREE connections.

The typical canister sequence is sediment, carbon, carbon block (the last pre filter), backpressure valve, R/O membrane (smaller sideways canister with 3 connections), DI resin canister.

The last stage will be DI resin canister since you should have already unhooked the "taste filter" if it had one.

I use them on my fridge ice maker.

 

And by running clear, can I assume that means that the carbon needs a rinse and it will run a little dirty at first?

 

Thanks for your help!

T

I do since no sense in letting it hit and sit in the R/O membrane.

 

Also, remember to back flush your R/O membrane for about 5-10 minutes each month.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also, remember to back flush your R/O membrane for about 5-10 minutes each month.

 

Does that basically mean to run it backwards through the RO membrane?

 

Also, James....what additional measures do you take if your source water tests badly? I thought that was the whole idea of the RO/DI....that it got all the bad stuff out. Now you are saying that there are some substances it won't remove?

 

Tracy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does that basically mean to run it backwards through the RO membrane?

 

Also, James....what additional measures do you take if your source water tests badly? I thought that was the whole idea of the RO/DI....that it got all the bad stuff out. Now you are saying that there are some substances it won't remove?

 

Tracy

 

It does, but as I understand it, not all RO/DI is made to filter out chloramine. In my case, I contacted air water ice to find out what I need to do if that is the case and are awaiting for their reply. It might just be simple as replacing one of the filter cartridge with something else. I'll let you know once I know more.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...