Red algae out of control

[Jessica]

My tank has been established for 2+ years and for about a month now, I have been battling red algae. My lights are on for 9 hours, I feed twice daily, do 5-10 gal weekly water changes with ro/di water. My lights are new. I tested my water levels and my nitrite, nitrate, ammonia, phosphate are all at 0. I siphon most of it that covers that rocks and sand bed. Tank is not near windows. I have to admit, there are detritus materials underneath the red algae, how do I get them out? Any advice? I was told that I can't mix through the sand bed when I am doing water changes.

[rsarvis]

Maybe change to new lights has something to do with it? I.e., change in the spectrum created opportunistic algae bloom? I've also been told to decrease light duration, at least for the brightest (all-bulbs-on) portion of my lighting regime, which lasted 8 hours; but if you'd done that for two years without problem, then that's not the main issue.

 

You can't get at the detritus under the red algae when you're siphoning? Or are you saying that it's on/in the sand bed and you don't want to disturb the sandbed? I think limited siphoning of the sand is okay, as long as you don't stir up a lot of stuff into the water column. If you do small amounts of sand at a time, and siphon most of the stuff coming out of the sand, I'd think you'd be okay.

 

My tank has been established for 2+ years and for about a month now, I have been battling red algae. My lights are on for 9 hours, I feed twice daily, do 5-10 gal weekly water changes with ro/di water. My lights are new. I tested my water levels and my nitrite, nitrate, ammonia, phosphate are all at 0. I siphon most of it that covers that rocks and sand bed. Tank is not near windows. I have to admit, there are detritus materials underneath the red algae, how do I get them out? Any advice? I was told that I can't mix through the sand bed when I am doing water changes.

[steveoutlaw]

Jessica,

First let me say Welcome to WAMAS!! Spend the $20 to become a member.......the advice and deals you'll get here will pay for the membership in no time.

 

When is the last time you changed the bulbs in your fixture? Also, where are you located? We have members that may be able to come look at your tank and help figure out the problem.

 

Steve

[Brian Ward]

Any affordable phosphate tests are worthless. They all read 0 when you really have phosphates. Start running a phosphate remover - media reactor or canister filter or media bag, however you can do it. Is 9 hrs the total amt of time all lights are on? you might cut down the brightest of the lights to 6 or 7 and run actinics only for the other couple hours. Remove the red algae by siphon, scrubbing, whatever it takes. Siphoning the top layer of sand out of the tank to get the detritus is OK just don't stir the sand bed. rinse the sand and put it back in the tank or discard if you prefer. My bet is that 1. you have a batch of ro/di water that isn't 0 tds OR 2. you accidentally introduced phosphates through lotions, soaps, etc. Stay on top of your water changes, run carbon and phosphate media, make sure you scoop out any uneaten food and remove as much of it as you can. After that, it's a waiting game - it will probably take 3-4 mos to get it back under control.

[dhoch]

I too would be curious as too how old your bulbs are... This is a major factor (in my experience) with Red Slime Growth (which I'm assuming is what you have even though you do not specify).

 

Good flow is another... many people have two low flow in their tanks.

 

Extended lighting is the 3rd.

 

Dave

[jnguyen4007]

If you need to borrow a par meter to test your light output, I have one that you can borrow.

[zotzer]

Is it cyano, which is actually bacteria and not algae, or that reddish pink fluffy stuff?

Tracy

[treesprite]

Is it cyano, which is actually bacteria and not algae, or that reddish pink fluffy stuff?

Tracy

 

Thats what I was wondering. Can't phosphate be a cause of that?

[davelin315]

My lights are new.

She said the lights are new, so I'm inclined to think that it is a flow problem and a function of the sand bed not being stirred up.

 

Jessica, I think that's nonsense to not stir up the sand bed periodically. If you can siphon it out and get it cleaner, that would probably solve a lot of your problems.

 

If you are concerned about this, then if you can temporarily take the stock and rock out of the tank you can do a very thorough cleaning of the sand bed. As long as you don't have anaerobic zones in the bed, it won't hurt to stir it up.

 

Is it cyano, which is actually bacteria and not algae, or that reddish pink fluffy stuff?

Tracy

Actually, cyanobacteria is not even bacteria. It's very closely related, but it's not the same thing. It's in the same kingdom, Monera, but it's the only other Phylum in there other than bacteria. The difference is that it's photosynthetic versus bacteria which is not.

 

Also, I agree with the sentiments that your photoperiod may be adding to it. Cut that down to about 7 or 8 hours and see if that helps.

[rrubberbandman]

I took the easy way out when i had cyano...and used red slime remover.....but my tank was only a FOWLR at the time....

Its weird in this hobby.....first its brown....then its red.....then its green.....alll nuisance algae stages we go thru.......now its purple corraline thats a nuisance...

[zotzer]

The difference is that it's photosynthetic versus bacteria which is not.

 

 

Thanks Dave, for the good info.

 

A pic would help. All that's been stated is "red algae". If it's the red algae I had (which at first I thought was so pretty and part of a sponge!) a fuge and a mexican turbo snail (along with some manual removal) is what did the job for me.

 

It's most likely cyano....but with only "red algae" to go by, I thought we'd cover all the bases.

 

https://www.marineland.com/seascope/ss2003_issue3.pdf

 

 

Tracy

Edited January 19, 2008 by zotzer

[lanman]

Thanks Dave, for the good info.

 

A pic would help. All that's been stated is "red algae". If it's the red algae I had (which at first I thought was so pretty and part of a sponge!) a fuge and a mexican turbo snail (along with some manual removal) is what did the job for me.

 

It's most likely cyano....but with only "red algae" to go by, I thought we'd cover all the bases.

 

https://www.marineland.com/seascope/ss2003_issue3.pdf

Tracy

 

Great article, Tracy!! Asparagopsis taxiformis - you actually found out what that stuff is! It's pretty; but annoying!

 

bob

[zotzer]

Great article, Tracy!! Asparagopsis taxiformis - you actually found out what that stuff is! It's pretty; but annoying!

 

bob

 

Bob,

That's about the only useful article I could find. I think maybe Leishman found it for me. Not a lot of info on it out there at all!! No one will ever want any of my chaeto, as it is full of the stuff (although less and less over time), but it can grow to its heart's content in my refugium if that keeps it out of the main display (with the assistance of my big fat turbo snail).

Tracy

[lanman]

Bob,

That's about the only useful article I could find. I think maybe Leishman found it for me. Not a lot of info on it out there at all!! No one will ever want any of my chaeto, as it is full of the stuff (although less and less over time), but it can grow to its heart's content in my refugium if that keeps it out of the main display (with the assistance of my big fat turbo snail).

Tracy

Yeah - also explains why I never had it in my main tank; several turbos in there. But something in the frag and refugium must eat it - because it has all disappeared. I have a turbo or two in the frag tank, but none in the refugium.

 

bob

[Steve G]

I have this pest and I have two words for you: Mexican Turbos.

 

My foxface won't touch the stuff (he's become quite a meat-eater in my tank). Hermits, other snails, no dice.

 

When an outbreak gets bad, I get out the reef-safe toothbrush and a net and do a lot of manual pruning. If my mexican turbo population is too low I get some more. All that plus aggressive skimming and phosphate adsorption via phosban reactor and I can keep it under control. Best of luck.

 

--Steve

[dschflier]

I have had the same problem in the past and this is what I think would help you.

 

I would at least double your water change for a couple of months. When you are taking the water out I would syphon out the slime and I would also vacum out the sand. Even though your tests read zero on the phosphates I would guess you have high organic phosphates which the standard test kits dont test for. Especially if the slime algea is on top of the substrate I am sure it is getting all the food it needs from that. The general approach I have taken is to keep attacking the food source.

 

I am not sure how much rock you have in your tank but if you have it stacked tightly that could impede the water flow which becomes a problem. Areas that have low water flow generally accumulate organic phosphates because waste settles in those areas.

 

I would also move a power head around all the areas in the tank to get the organics back into the water column so you can syphon them or skim the organics out. If you dont have a good skimmer I think it would be a very good investment. Keeping your calcium at a descent level also helps in that Calcium bonds with Phosphates.

 

Finally using a media reactor in conjuction with everything else should help eliminate the problem.

 

 

I hope this helps.

Edited January 20, 2008 by dschflier

[Jessica]

I ordered 2 more MJ1200 MODS since I only have two. I will do more water changes. I live in Lorton, VA. I plan on getting more equipment but don't know what to get. Does anyone have any suggestions? Or would like to see my set up and give me advice?

[vaironman]

Jessica,

 

I scan really quick with your very first post on this thread and see most everyone already address everything and you already tested water and water change routinely. I saw Tracy's post with Rik (Leisman) help on finding an article on Cyano algae.

 

Here is something that is kind of a question and I don't have a real answer; however, may be someone can point out something to help my own question/analysis. From your signature, you have a 90G, 2 mod MJ1200. That should fix your water flow if that was the original issue for Cyano algae. You feed twice a day, daily. With low/insufficient flow, that would definitely create the Cyano issue with left over food and low/insufficient number of cleaning crews. However, your test showed that everything was in 0 number, that is contradicting what we were thinking of Red Algae. It couldn't be old light bulbs since the light bulbs are new and using RO/DI water.

 

If the new mod MJ1200 powerheads help improved the red algae issue and does not completely gone in a couple weeks, I would lighten up on the feeding and even further with upgrading to a recirculating protein skimmer. My own question is how can we have zero results of all tests and have a Cyano issue, is that possible? May be someone can help point out my flaw analysis here.

 

Thanks,

 

KLee

 

Correction: Just read Tracy + Rik's aritcle and it points to a parasite which point out my flaw analysis. Jessica, let us know what fix your issue in the final. It will help me and most pple possibly learn a new thing here.

Edited January 30, 2008 by vaironman

[dschflier]

In response to the last Klee,

 

From everything I have read you can read 0 Phosphates on your tests and still have high organic phosphates. Most of the tests we get read inorganic Phosphates which are in the water column. They dont test all the organic phosphates that are in all the detrius that she mentioned she has in her sand bed.

 

I think water movment will help but not that alone. I would syphon into the sand bed. I am aware some people may feel differently but I do that on occasion in my 90 and 210 and I have never had any issues from doing that.

 

I still believe big water changes, clean up the sand bed, blast into the rock with a power head and when you can get a good skimmer. These things should go a long way in controlling your situation. Adding Kalk and a media reactor I would say would help as well but the first four things with better water movment I think will solve most of the problems.

 

As for equipment, if you mention a price range I think many people could give suggestions based on what you are looking to spend.

[lancer99]

I will second (third?) what others have said about Mexican Turbos. Also conchs (at least "Fighting" conchs)...they love to chow down on the stuff.

 

-R

[zotzer]

. They dont test all the organic phosphates that are in all the detrius that she mentioned she has in her sand bed.

 

She actually said that the detritus is under the algae, which is what made me think it was the fluffy kind. That stuff (be it on rocks or on sand) holds onto an amazing amount of detritus. You manually remove it, and a white cloud of gunk is released.

 

It can survive the most pristine water conditions. It's virulent, but only a minor chore to get rid of. Manual removal (and I followed behind with a very fine fish net to catch the crap), reverse-light-cycle fuge, and one fat mexican turbo (maybe two for her size tank). It will be gone from the display within a week. (If it is indeed the fluffy stuff and not the slimey cyano monster)

 

Must be mexican turbos though!! Sean at F&F usually has them.

 

Tracy

[rsarvis]

I have the red stuff, too, but mine's never on my sand, only on particular rocks. Is it harmful to corals or clams if it starts getting near their fleshy parts? I have new bulbs coming, so I'll see if that's it. My guess is that for me it's the lights.

 

I have no other nuisance algae at all. My phosphates read 0, but that could be misleading, as others have said; I might reinstitute use of a phosphate remover at some point, but not yet if I don't have to.

 

But I do want to try the Mexican turbos. Anybody have a couple to sell?

 

 

She actually said that the detritus is under the algae, which is what made me think it was the fluffy kind. That stuff (be it on rocks or on sand) holds onto an amazing amount of detritus. You manually remove it, and a white cloud of gunk is released.

 

It can survive the most pristine water conditions. It's virulent, but only a minor chore to get rid of. Manual removal (and I followed behind with a very fine fish net to catch the crap), reverse-light-cycle fuge, and one fat mexican turbo (maybe two for her size tank). It will be gone from the display within a week. (If it is indeed the fluffy stuff and not the slimey cyano monster)

 

Must be mexican turbos though!! Sean at F&F usually has them.

 

Tracy

[Jessica]

So, should I get a new skimmer? I was told that my skimmer is mediocre for my tank size. I don't have too many corals but plan on having them in the future; If and when my algae issue resolves. I saved up $1500 so far to upgrade my tank. I am looking into a Ca reactor and kalk reactor but don't know where to start. I've heard Deltec, Precision Marine, Aqua Medic, Korallin and GEO Nielson are good brands. Too many choices!

[zotzer]

Jessica,

Do you have a refugium?

Also, I am not sure you ever told us what kind of red algae you have.....the slimey kind, or the purplish fluffy kind?

 

Tracy

[yauger]

So, should I get a new skimmer? I was told that my skimmer is mediocre for my tank size. I don't have too many corals but plan on having them in the future; If and when my algae issue resolves. I saved up $1500 so far to upgrade my tank. I am looking into a Ca reactor and kalk reactor but don't know where to start. I've heard Deltec, Precision Marine, Aqua Medic, Korallin and GEO Nielson are good brands. Too many choices!

 

Check out Grey Seas Aquatic Equipment, the guy who makes these excellent skimmers & reactors is a WAMAS Member!! A one stop shop...