zobey November 28, 2007 November 28, 2007 does anyone have any suggestions for specific brands of activatted carbon that will not leach phosphates into my tank?
extreme_tooth_decay November 28, 2007 November 28, 2007 does anyone have any suggestions for specific brands of activatted carbon that will not leach phosphates into my tank? LINK (I'm a Black Diamond user myself, even though it's the loser in that test) tim
Rascal November 29, 2007 November 29, 2007 That's a really good link. I've also read though that it can depend not just on the brand but also on the batch, so who knows. I like the seachem matrix stuff b/c it requires a lot less rinsing than anything else I've tried.
bk_market November 29, 2007 November 29, 2007 I havent quite figure out to to use active carbon or how other people use it. Is it something you put in ur tank/sump or do I have to use a machine and put carbon in? Any link for direction to help me get start on this? Thanx
jamal November 29, 2007 November 29, 2007 I havent quite figure out to to use active carbon or how other people use it. Is it something you put in ur tank/sump or do I have to use a machine and put carbon in? Any link for direction to help me get start on this? Thanx you dont need a reactor to run carbon but it is less messy that way. also running it through a reactor forces the water over the carbon which is better for filtration. its called active filtration. if you put it in a filter bag it is called passive filtratiion which is less effective
bk_market November 29, 2007 November 29, 2007 know kalk and calcium reactor but didnt know there is a carbon reactor. any chance for a link? thanx in advance
zotzer November 29, 2007 November 29, 2007 I stick a bag of SeaGel in my hob fuge return. Since it's a mix of both matrix carbon and phosguard, I figure it kills two birds with one stone. Then again, I have a little tank. Tracy
Brian Ward November 29, 2007 November 29, 2007 know kalk and calcium reactor but didnt know there is a carbon reactor. any chance for a link? thanx in advance it's a general media reactor: http://greyseasaquatics.com/fluidizedreactors.html http://www.deltecusa.us/fluidizedreactors/index.php
vaironman November 29, 2007 November 29, 2007 know kalk and calcium reactor but didnt know there is a carbon reactor. any chance for a link? thanx in advance Here is the link to Danny7200. He does not have those up on his site; however, he probably has one at home for you. Come to his home and see the new 400G tank setup and the humongous skimmer he made for his tank. Wild sight for a man/woman (since we have many women in our club) toys! http://www.greyseasaquatics.com/fluidizedreactors.html
extreme_tooth_decay November 29, 2007 November 29, 2007 (edited) That's a really good link. I've also read though that it can depend not just on the brand but also on the batch, so who knows. I like the seachem matrix stuff b/c it requires a lot less rinsing than anything else I've tried. May be time for me to change...looks like your choice has 33x less phosphates than mine if I take any stock in this single test. Also, it does take forever and a day to rinse Black Diamond, that's a hassle. How does the granule size of seachem matrix compare to Black Diamond? tim I havent quite figure out to to use active carbon or how other people use it. Is it something you put in ur tank/sump or do I have to use a machine and put carbon in? Any link for direction to help me get start on this? Thanx Lot of ways to do it...you can just use a cheap HOB filter...some folks just float a bag in their sump...I myself use a canister filter (used to use a fluval, which I hated...now using a magnum, which I like) which forces the water through the carbon. I also use the canister filter as feed for my huge remote fuge (suck water from sump into canister...dump from canister into fuge, which overflows back into sump...I have the filter dialed down to about 150-200 gph. tim Edited November 29, 2007 by extreme_tooth_decay
zobey November 29, 2007 Author November 29, 2007 thanks for the responses. I just purchased a general media reactor that i am going to be filling with phosphate removal media and carbon. All info is much appreciated .
extreme_tooth_decay November 29, 2007 November 29, 2007 thanks for the responses. I just purchased a general media reactor that i am going to be filling with phosphate removal media and carbon. All info is much appreciated . Be very careful with phosphate removal media. It's very easy to crash you tank with that stuff. Google it, and find some articles about starting with 1/4 dose, and read them carefully. Not worth it IMO. tim
dschflier November 29, 2007 November 29, 2007 BK If you would like you are welcome to come over and see Dans reactor in use. For my tank it has done an incredible job. Most of the long term success I have seen in most tanks have media reactors. I am primarily talking about SPS tanks, but it applies in fresh water or just fish only tanks. Over the years whenever I see tanks that I consider exceptional, meaning strong SPS growth, nusiance algea under control and less parasites and disease in fish, I always ask about the setup. Almost without fail they use at least carbon and ussually some kind of Phosphate remover. I am sure you will find people who say you dont need the stuff and of course that is true. Need is the key word. As you meet people who have tanks that you admire for how succesfull they look ask what they use and what they think. As for the phosphates leaching back into the water supply. I have been told that, this is not what happens. I have spoken with people who sell trainloads of the stuff to our local water companies and they say the media will not all of a suden realese Phosphates back into the water. They say what is more likely happening is that the media is spent and so it is no longer pulling phosphates out of the water. That is why you would need to replace the media on a regular basis. I am only speaking about the iron based media which is the stuff I sell. Other reefers have also mentioned die off when they have started adding carbon and this is thought to be from the huge increase in clarity. That is why it is recomend to start with half the usual dosage. As to the decision of weather to use a reactor or a mesh bag. Jamal is right on. You can use either. The reactor I find to be much easier to deal with. I am going to perform a test to see how much more efficent the reactor is as well. I am sure it is more efficent just from my visual observation, but I want to know specifically how much better. I am looking into this because the carbon and Phosphate media that I sell, I will give the option to buy a quantity for a year supply. The supply will be different based on the equipment you are using. I think you need about 25%-30% more media when used in a mesh bag. I do not have the numbers to back that up yet. I hope that is helpful and as always I look forward to disagrement on my points. That is how we all learn. David Filter Fine Aquatics
SkiCurtis November 29, 2007 November 29, 2007 David said it good,for years i have been using the old bad in the sump for carbon.and 1 month ago I got a deltec reactor and filled with carbon it man It did clear the water in 2 weeks on my 240gal. i dis have 2 sps frags die.all other SPS ,LPS and softies did fine. so i stopped running it for a couple of weeks.and raised my lights so they would not be as intense for my new clear water. i wish i bought a reactor along time ago. i have used kent carbon,but I did buy some carbon in bulk from 2 part solution on that CMAS group buy week. Curtis
Rascal November 29, 2007 November 29, 2007 As for the phosphates leaching back into the water supply. I have been told that, this is not what happens. I have spoken with people who sell trainloads of the stuff to our local water companies and they say the media will not all of a suden realese Phosphates back into the water. They say what is more likely happening is that the media is spent and so it is no longer pulling phosphates out of the water. That is why you would need to replace the media on a regular basis. I am only speaking about the iron based media which is the stuff I sell. Just so no one gets confused here, David is talking about Granular Ferris Oxide (GFO) based phosphate removal products (i.e. - rowaphos, phosar, etc.. . .). They will reduce phosphates to extremely low levels and when saturated will not leach. The old aluminum oxide based products (like phosguard) will not absorb as much phosphate and when saturated will begin to leach phosphates back into the water. Activated carbon which has phosphates in it when you put it in your water will leach those phosphates into the water. How does the granule size of seachem matrix compare to Black Diamond? tim They are spherical beads - kind of like the ball bearings you would buy for a sling shot, only a little bit bigger.
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