unnatural nitrate reduction methods

[jamal]

does anyone use stuff to lower nitrates other than clams and macro algae for a tank that is fed 2 or 3 times daily?

['Ric]

You named two of the best, but in addition, there are some other experimental concepts you can look into:

 

1. Red Mangroves: I just set up a Display Refugium with three of them. To really use them for a lot of uptake I would need several more, but I also have macro algae and a clam in my system.

 

2. Sugar Dosing or Vodka Dosing: Adding small amounts of sugar or vodka to provide the hydro carbons needed by the beneficial bacteria to do what they need to do. The Germans are big on the Vodka saying it targets the nitrate-reducing bacteria better than sugar. When I set up my tank I included a section of tubing leading into a jaulbert plenum under a deep gravel bed so that I could dose vodka directly where it would be most needed. So far I haven't tried dosing it - just drinking it. I have done sugar dosing on a previous tank and it worked. The next morning the tank was cloudy white from the algae bloom, which then cleared up in another day.

 

3. Use lots of active carbon, I suppose.

 

Keep us posted on what you find out.

'Ric

[Grav]

If you have room for a 100g sump, why not add a 20g fuge? It would solve your problem.

[jamal]

i have various macro algaes in my sump now that arent growing. i also have some in my tank to see if it would do better there. still nothing. thats why i am looking into other methods. besides algae and clams which i have 2 of but arent large enough to be substantial

[YBeNormal]

Macro algae has to grow to have much of an impact on nitrates. If it aint growin', it probably aint helpin' much .

 

What lighting do you have over your sump/fuge? Plants also need phosphates to grow and as scary as this might sound, some people actually have to ADD phosphates to the tank so the macro algae will grow. There is actually a formula I've seen somewhere explaining the ratio of nitrates to phosphates that is required for macro algae. Too bad I can't remember where I read it though...

 

Are you running your sump lights 24x7 or off-cycle from the tank lights?

 

Dosing with vodka or sugar seems to have been very effective for lots of people but it's not something you want to just jump into without doing lots of research and really understanding the pros and cons. There are at least two mega-threads on RC about these topics.

[lanman]

does anyone use stuff to lower nitrates other than clams and macro algae for a tank that is fed 2 or 3 times daily?

Skimming... don't let your organics turn into nitrates in the first place.

 

Remote DSB...

 

Why isn't your macro-algae growing? Read the threads on getting a light at Home Depot that works very well. But don't expect to find one - I didn't...

 

Best of luck!

 

bob

[jamal]

my lights are on 24 hrs/day. i run a 55 watt pc light of the 6500k spectrum over it. well i dont know if my skimmer is strong enough but the juice is always brown. i run a bm 200 and a coralife 220 in my sump. my phosphates were at 0.1ppm last time brk checked it. is that enough? the hair algae seems to be doing quite well. dont they need the same elements as the macro to grow.

[YBeNormal]

Yes, hair and macro algae need pretty much the same conditions to grow and thrive. The key is to improve conditions for the macro algae so it can out compete the hair algae for nutrients. I would try cutting the lights over your fuge for a few hours per day. I had mine running 24x7 and the macro algae began to grow much faster when I began running the fuge lights opposite the main tank lights.

 

Reducing nitrates is important but I still think you are battling the wrong end of the problem. You need to figure out what is causing the elevated nitrates in the first place and eliminate or reduce that as much as possible. As Bob said, you need to remove organics before they have a chance to break down.

 

- reduced feedings

- remove uneaten foods

- reduce stocking levels?

- eliminate dead spots that allow organics to settle and accumulate

- increased & random flow within the tank

- better skimming

[jason the filter freak]

Yes, hair and macro algae need pretty much the same conditions to grow and thrive. The key is to improve conditions for the macro algae so it can out compete the hair algae for nutrients. I would try cutting the lights over your fuge for a few hours per day. I had mine running 24x7 and the macro algae began to grow much faster when I began running the fuge lights opposite the main tank lights.

 

Reducing nitrates is important but I still think you are battling the wrong end of the problem. You need to figure out what is causing the elevated nitrates in the first place and eliminate or reduce that as much as possible. As Bob said, you need to remove organics before they have a chance to break down.

 

- reduced feedings

- remove uneaten foods

- reduce stocking levels?

- eliminate dead spots that allow organics to settle and accumulate

- increased & random flow within the tank

- better skimming

 

 

He pretty much nailed it there, try all the traditional methods first. There are things like these on the market, but there isn't a ton of info on these methods.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Denitrator-Mark-II-by-...1QQcmdZViewItem

 

this next one even seems backwards

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/Nitrate-Reductor-for-f...1QQcmdZViewItem

 

don't know about these

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/AQUAMEDIC-NITRATE-REDU...1QQcmdZViewItem

[treesprite]

i think that contraption is a denitrator - they work but can backfire and dump your tank full of garbage. You have to cycle them, so it takes several weeks before they actually have any effect. They are also permanently sealed - can't take them apart unless you want to re-cycle them. They are more for people who don't have refugiums.

 

Most people who use them make them themselves. All it is is an airtight sealed canister with coiled airline tubing in it with bioballs in the center The water has to drip through slowly - it goes along the coil top to bottom. There is aerobic bacteria in the top section , then in the lower section there is anaerobic bacteria to break down the nitrates. The contraption in that add seems not to have the coil, and they talk about "feeding" but that doesn't make sense unless what they are talking about is some kind of chemical that is intended to remove nitrate.

 

Most people build them themselves - I considered it which is why I researched it, but I'm building my fuge so it would be pointless.

Edited June 16, 2007 by treesprite

[jamal]

well i have 5 seio powerheads pointed in different directiion in the tank. i have 4 110's and a 1500. i have my return lines pointed in different directions as well and another external pump for my uv flowing across the tank so i guess thats enough flow. i have one good skimmer and another cheaper one running together. i have 11 fish in a 180 none of whom are more than 5 in. listed in my signature. so i think thats a medium load. i dont know. i feed smaller portions more frequently now and watch the fish to make sure there isnt alot of uneaten food and pick it up if it isnt eaten. to the best of my knowledge i have tried conventional methods to no aveil which is why i was looking for unconventional methods. as stated before if the macro algae doesnt grow it isnt doing anything. and it isnt. i dont have any algaes growing except hair algae. could the macro be outcompeted? i have high nutrients so i figured there would be enough for everyone

[YBeNormal]

Here's another thought...

 

You mentioned that you were measuring nitrates on the output from your RO/DI unit. After some discussion, we agreed that the DI resin, sediment and carbon filters are well overdue for replacement and that the RO membrane was suspect.

 

DC uses chloramine in the water supply. Chloramine is broken down by activated carbon in your RO/DI into ammonia, chloride, and nitrogen gas. Most of the resulting ammonia should be handled by the RO membrane with the rest mopped up by the DI resin. However, we already know that your DI resin is exhausted and suspect that the RO membrane may be exhausted or not functioning properly. So, there is a good chance that your RO/DI output has elevated levels of not only nitrates, but ammonia as well. If so, the ammonia will break down to nitrites and eventually nitrates in your tank.

 

Please waste a gallon or so of RO/DI output then test a sample for nitrates and ammonia and post the results. If you have a chloramine test kit, check for that as well.

 

P.S. If the theory is correct, this is just one source of nitrates and is an issue that needs to be corrected. I don't think this fully explains the nitrate issue you are having though.

Edited June 17, 2007 by YBeNormal

[lletellier]

I built a denitrator myself for $40, got the idea off james when I went and saw his tank.. it has worked very nicely for me since I have been running a seaclone skimmer that doesn't do as much as i'd like it to