jason the filter freak
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Posts posted by jason the filter freak
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4-5 years ago when I set this tank up for my parents I put it on little 2" unbranded (Home Depot or Lowes) casters*. Thought nothing of the fact that it's sitting on laminate flooring, that casters that small/cheap probably aren't the most sturdy, etc.
*It's on casters 1. To keep airflow/access under the stand Incase water was ever spilled. 2. Pull the tank off the wall if cords ever needed to be rerouted (my mom is well into her 70s and not sure if I could get anyone over to the house to help them). 3. Allow the tank to be moved if the need ever arose.
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Input on if this solution would work or a better less convoluted solution would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
I need to replace the power supply that came with my Duetto ATO. A micro controller + DC pump.
It's just way too big. It says its 12V and 1amp (it has a 5.5mm/2.1mm barrel plug).
Can I replace it with this USB adapter plus a step up converter cable?
If not any other solutions? I can't come across a wall wart any less than 1.2" in depth.
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The second one you listed would always also be a great option
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Some pics of the first DIY/mod I've done to the tank.
The tank came with a Current LED which seems to get a lot of hate but tbh I kinda like it and also I don't want to spend any more money on a new light.
I didn't however like the rim/leg mount of the light on the rim. Too easy to knock off, I already sent the light for a swim, and I wanted something that was going to look more sleek.
Step one was to cut the stock mounting bracket off the rear chamber. It was glued on with silicone so a little bit of patience and a razor blade was all it took to remove it.
And then I did a little bit of R&D and some mock-up and came up with a way to mount a stock current tank mount bracket without using the supplied clamp.
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My first pico ATO attempt for this tank.
And... Already hate it. It's a great concept but the low level sensor is way too low for a pico and probably many nano aquariums. Just went ahead and spent double the price and pulled the trigger on a XP duetto ATO
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5 hours ago, YHSublime said:
Is that a DJ Switch directly under the tank?!
It is, stay tuned ?.
I'm going to copy pasta my build thread from R2R
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A Fluval Spec / Evo V build!
Re: The title: I've been dreaming of getting aWaterbox Aquariums 7225. I love, peninsula style tanks so much. However, my wife is active duty USCG and I'm an Army Civilian ER/Trauma nurse and money has been a bit tight since COVID hit. Once everything starts to settle I'd love to get a 7225 peninsula.For now I've got the opposite a 5 gal pico. 20.5" x 7.5" x 11.6" vs 72.3"×25.3"×23.6"
Always wanted to try a proper PICO reef. I love DIY but the wifey says I have too many projects so hopefully this will limit just how much I can do with it. This is absolutely the hardest build I've ever done and I've worked on tanks from 2.5 gal to several thousand gal.Picked it up as a aptasia garden. (I've since sold off the clowns.
17-Sept-2020 First Photos
11-Nov-2020 Update
*Back story I got this tank as part of a package deal including a 2016 apex and had 100% intentions of selling off the tank and all other equipment to offset the cost of the Apex.
Tech list:
- Fluval Spec V tank.
- Current Orbit USA Marine LED and mounting bracket.
- Marineland 606 return pump
-Hygger Adjustable DC powerhead
-VCA Random Flow Generator
- Inkbird ITC-308S
- Aqueon 50 watt heater
- XP Aqua Duetto ATO
- Auto Aqua Smart Level Security
-InTank Aquatics water director, plug kit, and surface skimmer
- Artic COV- 44100 8 Switch power strip with custom ICM203 feed delay circuit. -
@YHSublime your pics aren't imbedded but looks sick!
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On 10/21/2020 at 7:13 AM, lynn.reef.nerd said:
HELLO WAMAS!!!
A local hobbyist (Gonzo) put together a secret santa event on Elfster App.
This is for locals in the DMV area only. If you are interested please feel free to join us and message him on facebook!!!
https://www.facebook.com/groups/northernvirginiareefs
This is a great idea. If I were still in the area I'd be down.
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2 hours ago, Origami said:
We have at least one more, too, that had a pretty serious run in. More serious than mine and it affected some in his household as I recall. .
I remember the Steve pouring boiling water over them and creating an essential oil diffuser but with palytoxin instead of lavender.
Mine was in my eyes and only required an ER visit.
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You may recall that I suffered three times from palytoxin exposure. None resulted in hospitalization, but symptoms after my first (worst) exposure included chills, shaking, fever, low blood pressure (I think), wheezing and breathing discomfort. The second time, symptoms were considerably less, but I attribute that to being more cautious and exposing myself less. In both cases, the initial symptoms were wheezy breathing and a tightness in my chest. The wheezy feeling in my chest would be the last symptom to go away, too. The third time was mild, but I protected myself more.
Tolerance? I don't know about that. I do know that my behavior was modified after each exposure, though.
Oh man I don't remember you having a run in. Just me and Steve. At least we're in good company
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Pumped in from a couple of clicks off shore shared by state research labs.
https://dlnr.hawaii.gov/dar/publications/anuenue-fisheries-research-center/
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There are a whole LOTTA things that sucks about reefing in Hawaii but free saltwater isn't one of them.
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WARNING!* By all accounts palytoxin is extremely dangerous and I am NOT in any way, shape, form suggesting that any reefer attempt to build up a tolerance or immunity to polytoxin via any methodology.
Every once in a while I'll come across one of our polyp friends that will leave my mouth tasting like sucking on a wad of pennies even with intact skin. I used to be left with that manifestation for days at a time, now it's just hours. However I don't know if it's does dependant or paly/zoa type or if it's repeated exposure that's shortened the period of symptoms.
I'm wondering if it's ever been studied of if anyone else on here has a anecdotal stories on this.
I wear enclosed eye protection and gloves for fragging but I don't always wear gloves when reaching in tank.*Those of you who've been on WAMAS long enough will remember Steve's incident or my own both of which resulted in hospital trips and prescription medical treatment (Steve had it way worse than me).
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I know this is an older post but I have cut approx .25"-1/3" off all sides of 2 tees and about the same off of 2 sides of an elbow. With generous but not excessive application of primer and cement and making sure the joint is held together super tight for a minute I've had zero leaks
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The thing you circled on the upper right is just the top of your effluent riser pipe. It doesn't necessarily need to have anything on it many skimmers do not.
The open tea that you have circled in the bottom right is pretty much just the effluent / output / outflow of your skimmer and looks exactly as it should skimmer technology (of cone needle wheel type) hasn't changed a whole lot in the past 10 plus years in terms of the basics just little tiny things they fine tuned over time. See the attached image of an SCA skimmer It is generally almost the same design as the one you have.
Now get that bugger cleaned up and installed you're making me anxious.
FYI that skimmer was probably designed to run in about "6 of water +/-1-2" depth
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@Still_human basically if you pull that pipe up and out it should look pretty much like this with a wedge on it twisting the pipe opens and closes the angle between the wedge and the effluent 90 from your skimmer.
The thing you circled on the upper left in the green is your air intake silencer there should not be anything attached to the top of that, however the bottom of that hose needs to be connected to the nipple on the intake volute on the pump (That little nipple right next to where the hose is ending now)
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On 10/8/2020 at 8:58 AM, Still_human said:
Whats a wedge valve? Sorry if it’s a dumb question, but I don’t have much experience with this type of skimmer.
Sorry I had to pull my skimmer offline/out of sump to get this photo so it took me a couple of days.
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NVM went with a solenoid
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I have an 80 gallon 24x24x32 99% zoa/paly tank with two Gyre XF330 power heads attached in a vertical fashion to my overflow box approximately 12 in or halfway off the bottom.
I just got a hydrous wave engine so I have a better ability to control the pumps and do more customization on flow patterns. I'm looking for suggestions on some good programming for the pumps.
I am unable to move the pumps up or down or place them anywhere else in the tank. I also currently have flow from a Varios 6 return pump That is attached to two 3/4-in deductor/random flow generator running at approximately 60% of max gph.
Live rock is arranged into five main columns see attached drawings for Gyre replacement as well as live rock placement.
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A source that isn't Wish or Alibaba
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A testement to poor choices (a tank on casters).
in General Discussion
Today was able to pull the tank out. Roll it about 10 feet* and resituate it. No dents in the floor but some small flats on the casters interestingly enough. Rolled just fine with the tank completely full ?
*the rear casters are fixed and space was limited so it was like a 6 point turn to move it 5 feet over and 45 degrees.