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jason the filter freak

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Posts posted by jason the filter freak

    Looking for plumbing feedback (see pic)

    in General Discussion

    Thanks for the advice on the gate valves i think between price (i can replace 5 ball valves for the coat of one gate of comparable quality), their size vs gate valves, and their lack of unions theyre not worth it for my application. 

     

    So it seems to be fairly common practice to end ones emergency flow discharge pretty high up from the sump so they'll hear water cascading/splashing if its the route for water instead of the siphon drain. Is this necessary/advisable?

     

    As for ending the primary drain level "under water" is best practice a straight entry. Using a "reverse durso", or something else. 

     

     

    Set up Kalk reactor to avoid overdoses?

    in General Discussion

    So im going set up my kalk reactor and want to avoid an OD. I dont want to lose my ATO abilities if my pH goes too high. So normally ATO vessel, to kalk reactor, to sump. But i want to set up a way to have water bypass the Kalk reactor if my tank pH climbs to high (as determined by an Apex).

     

    How do i do this? simply, cheaply, and reliably (i know sometimes you have to pick just two of factors. 

     

    Im guessing something with a solenoid? Two pumps for water supply? What?

     

     

    Looking for plumbing feedback (see pic)

    in General Discussion

    9 hours ago, AlanM said:

     

    No, but it's easier to purge the air out of the line to start the siphon going if the line has no interruptions on the way down to the sump. 

     

    Which pipe will fill with water faster when your return pump is turned on and the overflow starts flowing?

     

    Untitled.png.32d9d47f490161fefa1b65edb5c4ce80.png

     

    As long as the plumbing ends just barely under the water line and not submerged way down the siphon should be able to start either way, though.

    Im not following on what the diagram is? Ive always had durso so this is new to me. 

    Looking for plumbing feedback (see pic)

    in General Discussion

    3 hours ago, zygote2k said:

    I’d definitely install a check valve. I’d also ditch the ball valves and use gate valves instead. The BV’s will generate enough torque to make the bulkheads leak 

     

    Man Dan I aint got that kinda money for gate valves. 

     

    Whats the deal with check valves though? Ive read the theory but if i set my sump and returns up properly to prevent siphon and have a sump that can handle the surge why install a float?

    Looking for plumbing feedback (see pic)

    in General Discussion

    52 minutes ago, AlanM said:

    I don't know what kind of drain system you're using, but I never like horizontal runs like that in my drains.  At least it gives me pause. 

     

    It looks like you're using a "herbie" setup with the horizontal one as the emergency, though, so that seems OK to me. I'd put the valve way down in the sump as near the water surface as convenient, not up as a horizontal section.  The valve is supposed to go close to the water surface.

     

    I have never seen a write up or photo where the gate vavle on the Herbie wasnt within a few inches of the drain bulkhead. Could you provide a link to the style you're talking about?

    Looking for plumbing feedback (see pic)

    in General Discussion

    9 hours ago, malacoda said:

    Roger that. Was just curious since you've already got the sched. 40 cut to just about where you want it.  The gray Krylon ought to make look quite nice.

     

    I cant find a grey krylon thats close enough in color. Its way off as a matter of fact. Which is a real shame because i painted one fitting to test and now im left with an ulgy battleship grey spray paint that i cant return/use

    Looking for plumbing feedback (see pic)

    in General Discussion

    · Edited by jason the filter freak

    1 hour ago, malacoda said:

    Just curious:  is there a particular reason you're switching to schedule 80 for the final plumbing ... or are you just going to 80 for the gray color?

    It wont actually be schedule 80, a 4$ can of krylon fusion grey will make everything look "good enough"

    Looking for plumbing feedback (see pic)

    in General Discussion

    · Edited by jason the filter freak

    Ive put together a loose mockup 
     
    Looking for feedback on fluid dynamics not quality of materials, etc. 
     
    1. I will remove the slope from the return line in the final iteration. 
    2. I dont want to rely on any sort of check valve on my return manifold, so dont worry about that. Thank you. 

    20190313_210211.jpg

    Reef tanks/Reef Clubs in Hawaii?

    in General Discussion

    23 hours ago, KingOfAll_Tyrants said:

    Hah!  As you can see, I've thought about it a time or two.  


    Brief addendum to the above: the link I posted is to the latest NOAA report on coral reefs in Hawaii.  It shows the multitude of things that are damaging coral cover in Hawaii.   

    Wow thank you for the incredibly well thought out reply. I really appreciate the thought and info. 

     

    I failed to do my research and had been excitedly buying gear, fragging my current corals to raise funds, and my brand new 80 gallon got delivered today ? im dreading the cost of shipping it back to SCA but unless i hear positive things when i reach out to the LFS on the island i think i should just shut my reefing aspirations off for a few years. 

    Internal vs External overflow box

    in General Discussion

    Im pretty sure this will be a 6 one way half dozen the other debate. But WAMAS has rarely steered me wrong. 

     

    Im looking at picking up an SCA 80 gallon 32 x 24 x 24. If i go external overflow ill have 4 holes in the back of the tank (2 drain 2 return) and 4-5 pieces of plumbing running down the back. If i do external, nothing running down the back but i loose tank space but lose the external plumbing. 

     

    ALSO. A couple of weeks to get the internal overflow tank 3-4 MONTHS to get the external overflow tank.

     

    We're moving to Hawaii for next PCS soon so this will be my last tank for a while as there really arent economical options for getting a tank on the island. 

    Tank failing, need help

    in General Discussion

    Yea i was just considering the salinity tonight. I did have my refractometer checked within the last year but its been a while.

     

    I tend to get the cyano blooms every time i try adding macros and it starts to die off. I think the cyano comes from nutrients released as the macros die. So ive tried and failed to keep macros 3-4 timed since moving to the 40 and am going to give up on tjem at least for a while.

    Tank failing, need help

    in General Discussion

    ++1 Too clean was my initial thought as well. In addition to ALK, CA, MG levels, what are your P and NO3?

    Ill wait a couple of days and test this. I did s large water change and dont think the results will be accurate if i do it today or tomorrow

    Tank failing, need help

    in General Discussion

    My initial thought was not enough nutrients. You have little stock and a clean up crew. Throw in your Biopellet reactor and water changes, you are removing quit a bit of nuttients. Micro algae also takes out nutrients but since you cant keep it alive is what has me leaning towards not enough nutrients. But it is probably something more complex.

    This would possibly seem to account for macros but not the anems and lack of coraline (didnt have that problem in my previous tank)

    Tank failing, need help

    in General Discussion

    I have an IM 40 of which all the contents were transplanted from an IM 30 that was doing relatively well.

     

    I get cyano blooms here and there, i cant keep macro algae alive at all, coraline algae doesnt grow, and every bta i add to the tank shrinks to almost nothing (baseball size shrinks to grape size but doesnt die off all together)., and my pod population is nil despite adding pods a few times.

     

    I did not have these issues with my IM 30.

     

     

     

    The setup:

     

    IM 40 gallon

     

    Radion XR30Pro 4th gen 10 hours on, coral lab setting, 30-40% max for about an hour.

     

    Vortech MP10QD around 40-50% max flow

     

    Tunze 1073.05 return at 50-60%

     

    Tunze 9004 skimmer (running faily wet)

     

    Biopellet reactor

     

    Aquamaxx FRS GFO reactor (running BRS recommended amount of media)

     

    Apex controller (tank runs around 79 degrees and 8.1-8.3 pH depending on time of day)

     

     

     

    Live stock: two ocellaris, 1 royal gramma, 1 cleaner shrim, 1 emerald crab, misc clean up crew.

     

     

     

    Corals: rock flower x 2 (lost one recently), maxi-mini (has shrunken considerably but not died after 9 months), BTA x 2 (same shrinking), misc rics, zoa, mushroom, grogornia, euphyllias, acans, duncans

     

     

     

    I feed 3 times a week and sparingly, change water monthly (20% with redsea coral pro and 0 TDS rodi), and run an ato to keep salinity consistent.

     

     

     

    The tank has been up for around a year and just isnt doing as well as it should. I can not freaking figure out whats going on im about ready to throw in the towel, tear down, and sell off after 15 years of reefing. 

    Best labsend out test?

    in General Discussion

    I am loosing my mind trying to figure out what's going on with my tank... anems have shrunk to 1/3 their size, LPS growth is stagnant, sps and macros die, pods are nonexistent after adding multiple batches (tank has been up 1yr plus), coraline growth is non-existent... red sea test kits say the parameters are ok, so does apex, and my hanna checkers. I use O TDS water, do a %20 water change every 3 weeks to a month, feed lightly, light bioload.

     

    So I want to do a send out lab test looking for things like copper, heavy metal, etc.

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