Kengar

I am selling a couple items. Both buyers will be at fragrest and asked if I will be there, but I won't. (I'll be out of town introducing my parents to their first, twin grandchildren.) Would anyone be willing to take some stuff to fragfest for me? IT will be boxed up so you're not schlepping stuff hanging out all over the place. I live in G'burg and will bring it by to you if you are close and willing to transport for me. THANKS!

John, Can you get me a Ctenochoptoplus dixitus? (Is your refrigerator running?)

usual prices? usual prices? you must be CRAAAAAAAZY

Is THAT all?????

backup lighting when the LED's fail.

I have one I run full time already. It is in the return flow path about 1/3 of the return pump outlet takes. Re recurrence/future introduction, following my own good sense and quarantining with hypo or copper is really the only way to be sure. I assume you're referring to the 15 I have already, as referenced in other posts and above. It is sized to the flow estimated to be going through it where the unit fits in in my system, and is probably achieving 90,000 kill units for that amount of flow. If I had a place to put another, larger unit into the system on a full time basis that passes more flow through it and stays out of site, I would. On temporary basis, however, I am willing to hang a larger unit directly from the display, and that is what I am hoping to locate. Now back to topic. . . . .

I am treating ich. I have pulled just about all fish from the system so far (should get the last in a day or so) and will leave system fallow. I was wondering if anyone has a spare hang on UV they would be willing to loan or rent for six weeks while system is fallow to help move things along in eradicating. Thanks.

Tank is a 156. Return pump is a Velocity T4. About 150 gph from return goes to main skimmer (Euroreef recirc; ER recommends one to 1.5 tank volume per hour through it) then back to sump; one half of remainder goes through UV before going to tank; other half of remainder goes straight to tank. UV is only 15 watt, because that is appropriate size for the amount of (guesstimated) flow that goes through it, per Aqua sizing chart. Ozone is only 50 mg/hour unit. I have it set at about the midway point, so about 25/hour. I blow air through the ozonizer, and the air pump is set at about 2/3 full. Small airpump; don't know make/model/size. I have a CPR backpack-type skimmer (Odyssea) sitting in the sump that I use as ozone reactor. The powerhead that drives that skimmer is private brand, but comparable to a Maxijet 900 or 1200 I would guess. Ozonized air is blown into an intake nipple on the powserhead outlet, which supplies the skimmer. So, water that is ozonized is taken from sump and returned to the sump. I set the amount of ozone being generated based on smell -- if I don't smell excess ozone, I'm good -- and the amount of air based on as much as possible before I see excess air shooting out the powerhead intake. Bottom line is that the UV and ozone are arranged so that neither really hits the whole system. In other words, total system flow does not go through either. They certainly don't hurt, but they are not the be-all end-all on my system for controlling pathogens. Hence my need for better control in the first place (i.e., PROPER and PATIENT quarantining).

Thanks, Copps. The QT has been running for a while with a lot of filter on/in it, so bacterial seeding should be good. Nevertheless, I will be checking ammo regaularly and will pick up one of those gauges. As far as number of fish, I'm willing to sell the tomini tang; the picassos, on the other hand, are VERY unusual pattern, so they stay. QT is a 30. Re feeding, I agree re needing calories, which is why I've been trying so many things. It becomes dicey, though, to put food into QT if it doesn't get eaten, since that will send ammo up. Plus, in a week, we're having twins, so ability to monitor may be limited. Ack!

I run UV and Ozone, but the limitation with those is that the organism must come into contact with the means. That is why I want to eradicate. (UV is sized to the amount of water that flows through it (1/3 of total return flow).) Perhaps I will pull as many as I can, and use kick ich for good measure on what is left. (I agree re mandy not having food source, which is why I would be reluctant to pull it.)

Despite have QT set up and running, once again I've jumped gun and introduced fish with ich into display. Soo, once again, I'm in ich eradication mode. (How many times do we have to make the same mistake????) What I'm wondering is whether absolutely every fish must be removed, or whether some fish are impervious. In particular, I've got a number of small and/or fast fish that would be exceedingly difficult to catch without breaking down the reef. The ones I'm wondering whether they are ich impervious are the following: mandarin dragonette yashia goby engineer goby rainford goby flaming prawn goby If I removed all others (for six weeks) and left those fish in place and they did not exhibit clear signs of ich, is it possible that they could be carring it without showing, in which case I would not have achieved the goal? Or are those fish ich-resistant, such that if they don't exhibit after six weeks of the system being free of all other fish, I could assume the ich has died off? Thanks for input.

Copps, Thanks for your input. (I haven't checked here for a few days, hence the lack of earlier acknowledgment.) I put the regal in display per earlier post, thinking it would be more comfortable there. It perked up for a few days and was picking at sponge/algae. Unfortunately, however, the ich on PBT/in system spread to him, so he's back in QT -- now treatment tank. (I'm back to ich-duty re main tank as per other posting here.) To minimize overloading the treatment tank, I have sold the PBT (with full disclosure re ich, of course, and at substantial discount), and, if at all possible, am going to put just the regal, tomini tang, and picasso clowns in treatment tank. Now here's the big question: copper or hypo? How well will a regal tolerate copper? Is hypo as effective as copper? Preferred? Maybe I should go to hypo since, if I recall correctly, it is far easier on the fish. Re size of the fish, it is clearly mature at approx 6 inches, which is perhaps why it is more difficult to get to switch. Re where I bought it, Aquarium One -- before they even put it in their system. Again, thank you for your input, and antying else you have to offer will be appreciated. Regards Ken

I bought one once, from Bigfoot. Easter Bunny and Santa brought me two others. In other words, I don't think those exist at all.

It would be public. Access to the infromation would be unctrolled in that anyone could join WAMAS and see it. More than a select group of people. No restrictions placed on those who do see it as to whether they could further disseminate the infromation. In short, total public disclosure. BTW, what art unit are you in? (Subject matter, not number please.)

I've heard that others do the same thing, i.e., striaght to display. I might go that route if it doesn't respond in qt in a few more days. Given the size of the fish, it is quite mature. I think older fish have harder time adapting, particularly to the boring confines of qt, than younger fish. Getting him back to something slightly more akin to what it was used to may help.

Hey, no offense taken. Just having a little fun.

he's in 30g qt by himself. only ambient room lighting. still not eating. bought live blackworms and brine this pm; will try those tomorrow am.

OK, SharkB8. First I see you copying my license plate with your name on here. (My MD plate is SHARKB8; diver humor). Now I find out that you, too, are a patent attorney. You copying me or something??? Where do you work?

Can anyone provide tips to help (try) to get a yellow belly regal to start eating? Had it since Wednesday and no luck so far. Trying mussels on half shell, fresh clams on half shell, PE mysis with garlic extract, Formala cubes (FII, Spirulina formular), Marine Cuisine, broccoli, nori. . . all with no luck.

John, You've got orange peel angel listed on the stocklist. Is that just an orangish-looking version of a lemon peel? Different species? I don't find orange peel angelfish by google. Any pix?

Hey John, are you still out of town?

Yeah, Copps, that's a good one! I can hardly wait to use THAT one on my wife. . . . . I wonder what her sister's husband the finanancial analyst/planner would say about that.

Hey John, How about if you get me a black tang with ich and let me tell everyone it's a gem?

sounds to me like a good excuse to buy a whole new system. . .

For fifty bucks, i'll come over and do it for you! J/K Actually, make sure the specimen cups are as clean as possible. You don't want the fish to see the plastic if at all possible.