Kengar

ok. thanks, John. I'll chill! Ken

Hey John, I had asked about the gf's thinking the social was going to be last weekend, but I now see it is going to be this weekend. Hence, same question: any possibility of having them in time for the social? Thanks. Ken

I got the finest metal blade (i.e., smallest, most number of teeth) to use. Fortunately, teh sheet I bought is far larger than what I need for my application, so there is plenty of room for trial and error. Will advise later once i've taken a crack at it.

ultimately, i bought a cheap, 40 dllar black and decker jigsaw. will clamp a bar to the acrylic as a guide and go. thanks for the info and offeres.

i was wondering who would interp it that way! goldflakes, not girlfriends! John, I'll wait for the smalls. Best, Ken

any possibilty re gf's by this weekend? (I know you're looking!) ken.

Hey Justin! Thank you for the offer; I appreciate it! I may see what is available at HD (or, if I absolutely have to, sLowe's) and get something to have around the house. If I'm not able to pull the trigger and buy another tool, I'll take you up on your offer. Regards, Ken

or then again, maybe I'll just get two of these! http://www.jlaquatics.com/phpstore/store_p...uct_ID=ws-brace I forgot about these. I used them when I first set up this system and had wavy seas oscillators (pre-Vortech days)

thanks for the offer, zygotek. for this, I think I'll just get a router attachment and bit for my dremel, or perhaps ask the neighbor who, I think, may have a table saw set up in his garage. However, I may ask to take you up on the offer in connection with making some clamp adapters. I ordered some Giesemann clamp-on fans, but from the specs (I haven't received the units yet) I don't think they will fit over the frame of my Oceanic tank. So, I plan to purchase some 3 X 3 X 3 acrylic cubes, router out a central slot to give me a U-shaped bracket, shoot and tap some holes to receive nylon srews, acrylic-cement a twelve-inch x .75 inch x 1.5 inch acrylic bar to the top of the bracket, and then clamp the fan uniit onto the acrylic bar. Would you be able to router that out for me? What about tapping the screw holes? Everything else I could probably handle myself. Thanks!

I need to cut some 3/16" thick acrylic without a table saw. In the past, I have scored with Exacto knife, supported the sheet on two tubes of PVC with the score between between and parallel to the tubes, placed a third tube on top of the sheet right along the score, then whacked the top tube sharply (e.g., with yet another piece of pvc tube) to crack it. This time, however, I need the break to be fairly clean. Suggestion? Would a glass cutter form deeper, cleaner score (using a metal straight edge to guide it)? What about some sort of an engraving-type Dremel tool attachment? Heating blade of Exacto knife then slicing the sheet while the blade is still hot? Thanks for assistance!

touche! actually, mom just came in town for the twins' first birthday saturday. she leaves sunday. I'll give a call sunday to see if any are left before coming out. if there aren't any, that might be a good thing; leaves money for the gf's. Can you pursue that again? If not, shoot me a PM.

hey john, can you catch the two circled ones for me????? I KNOW you can! THOSE are the two I want; those two and ONLY those two!

so what do you think re two pairs in the same tank (156)?

I assume you have them suspended? If so, I've got a question re the suspension hardware. Currently, I have a Current Outer Orbit fixture, suspended. I don't know whether you are familiar with the Current cable system, so I'll explain it before asking my question. On the Current system, there is a nice, satin finish circular plate that gets attached against the celing. (It gets attached to a bracket that has been bolted to the celing, much like your run of the mill light fixture bracket.) There is a central hole in the plate with a gripping ferrule that the main cable runs through. The main cable has a slug (for lack of a better term) at its upper end to prevent it from being pulled all the way through the ferrule if the ferrule were to be pushed back to allow the cable to slide through. At its opposite, lower end, the main cable passes through one of those inch long, cylindrical adjustment fittings that itself has a ferrule at the top through which the main cable passes. The main cable passes in to the top of the fitting and out through the side of the cylindrical adjustment fitting and has another one of those little slugs at its end to prevent the adjustment fitting from sliding off the lower end of the main cable when the ferrule at the top of the adjustment fitting is pushed back to allow the main cable to slide through it. A shorter, secondary cable passes through the bottom of the adjustment fitting, from one side to the other. There is a cylindrical mounting fitting (same size and shape as the adjustment fitting) hard-fixed to each end of the secondary cable. Those mounting fittings get attached to the lighting fixture -- one in front and one in back. Hence, the Current cabling forms an inverted Y. Here's the question (finally! ). How does the Giesemann cabling attach to the ceiling? Does it have a bracket/cover type arrangement as described above? From the photo of the cable kit on line, that does not appear to be the case. What I would really prefer is to anchor to the existing ceiling hardware if at all possible. (The Giesemann would be a custom five foot fixture, so I assume I could ask them to space the anchor points on the fixture to match what is there already.) If the Giesemann system has the mounting fittings hard-attached to the cable (particulalry the top of the cable, since I assume the bottom is configured to slide up along the cable to adjust its height), would there be any way to use the existing Current setup? I would be reluctant to cut the cable to pass it through the Current ferrule, since my concern would be that the cable would unravel even if I looped it around some sort of anchor bar and crimped it down to itself. Or does the upper fitting at the end of the Giesemann cable screw directly into the ceiling (e.g., into a toggle bolt or other dry-wall anchor)? Sorry for the long post/question, but your information will help! Thanks.

are you having just one bh leak or two? if just one, perhaps the bulhead itself has a small crack or fissure in it. you should not have to be going though such difficulties to get a decent bh seal.

I'm considering going for one of these. If you have either, what are your thoughts? Worth the $$$$$$$$ ?

Although internal, submersible pumps such as this one may be cheaper than external, is it really worth the cost savings to have all of this aggavation? I have Poseidon T4 external; can't hear it at all!!!

YUP! I've owned Oceanic tanks (110, 75, 210, and now 156) since 1997. It's about time I got to take advantage of the warranty.

Sure fire way to quiet it down: unplug it! Seriously, though, you say you have it internal. If possible, in addition to using flexible tubing instead of PVC, perhaps you could suspend it in some fashion by cable ties, dental floss, or some other non-corroding means so that it does not sit either directly or indirectly (i.e., via pad) on the bottom of the sump. In other words, suspend it within the water column.

I just wanted to say thank you to Andrew at Scales for the help getting the warranty replacement (2X) on my Oceanic 156 taken care of. Much obliged!

I just wanted to say thank you to Andrew at Scales for the help getting the warranty replacement (2X) of my Oceanic 156 taken care of. Much obliged!

GOOD!!!! That leaves money to spend on other fishies I don't need to be buying!

Hey John, How're they doing? Ken

Hey John, Dinner with family is a good thing! I can't make it tomorrow. Sent email. Next week ASAP. Ken

I sent an email re whether to pick up tomorrow or better to wait. Can you shoot me a reply? Thanks! Ken