DaJMasta

An elaborate setup, but I don't necessarily think it's a bad overall plan of attack. There is some concern with overall reliability, but flow/leak detectors (I don't know how they integrate into the controller, but I assume it can handle them) and an auto-stop associated with them triggering or reading something bad would go a long way towards avoiding problems while running on its own. I would be particularly careful to design your plumbing and reservoirs to compensate for the volume of the plumbing between the equipment room and the tank - it's going to be a few gallons in the return line, at least, though somewhat less in lower diameter pipes. I would probably put in any solenoid type valves right above the sump for the tank rather than one the water change side, and I would make sure there's a slight downhill slope between the sump outlet and the height of the reservoir in the closet, so that when the pumps shut off, instead of getting stagnant water in the pipes, it all drains back into the appropriate reservoir. Basically trying to plumb everything so that if you shut it off, loose power, trip a leak sensor/etc that it drains back into a proper place instead of just stopping somewhere that creates problems or is just really hard to drain later to reset. I don't know if this was already the intention, but making it a 'semi-automatic' system is probably the safer option. One where it handles the water moving and such still, but which relies on external input to start the process (or even, to start each stage.) Programming an appropriate time or flow measurement for the change but advancing each step with an extra button press would prevent cascading problems if something arises in an early step, and even if the goal ultimately is fully automatic, it's probably good to program in (I assume that's how it would be done with this controller) some extra pauses for manual input so that at least the first few times through the process, you can run a step and then look at the sensor data and check the pipes/water locations to make sure everything is still on track. Debugging can be built into the setup and then just omitted or ignored once things work, so it's good to plan an extra button input or an extra text output or something just to give some analysis options in the event of a problem.

Agreed, probably cyanobacteria. Probably a bit better looking than GHA, but generally similar treatment - lower phosphates and nitrates. Since it doesn't stick down as well as GHA, it can also be indicative of a lower flow region of the tank.

It's my understanding that basically every frag and bit of livestock you add from a new source will give you the potential for more biodiversity in bacteria, then it's just up to what can compete well enough against the existing strains to stick around in the tank over the long term, so I think most reef tanks with some age will have had a pretty substantial mix of bacteria introduced, though I don't know of studies showing what actually sticks around. I don't think it's the thing to do necessarily in this situation, but do people still carbon dose? The last tank I had I remember adding a couple of mL a day of vodka (in a ~30g system) with a dosing pump to be a biologically available carbon source. The goal was lowering nutrients in the water by providing the carbon to help bacterial populations grow, then skimming the extra bacterial out - a way to convert the nutrients into something removable. If you have a fair amount of bacterial variety, it could be a way to increase the total count, but I don't know if it would actually be beneficial or if dinos could make use of the carbon in a similar way and use it. It definitely worked, and I remember hearing about people accidentally overdosing and the water getting slightly cloudy with bacterial bloom, but the dosing I did sure increased my skimmate and reduced nuisance algae growth.

You could try buying some uncured rock and then soft cycling it in a quarantine tank and inspecting, but I expect it's quite a bit of time and effort to do it with any degree of confidence that you have no pests. You could try buying individual specimens, but it's going to be pricey and the decorative ones for the tank don't sound like the ones you have in mind, but you should at least be able to get micro brittle stars and pods through livestock suppliers.

I got my start in Austin and was part of their reef club which despite my newness to things and low level of participation in person (no car), it was a great experience and was helpful in both figuring things out and getting some very nice livestock through groupbuys. It struck me as strange to be slapping down some money on a club membership before I even had a tank picked out, but I do expect to get to that point soon enough, and the potential for a deal on used equipment certainly could accelerate that.

I'm from the area but had saltwater reef tanks only when I was away, I've been back in the area for a while and have managed to convince myself that the time is 'right enough' to finally get back into things. When I had tanks running, I had three nanos at different times, all mixed reef, usually going after mid-light SPS, LPS, and zoanthids, but with an affinity for inverts - my most recent tank (in 2013) was designed around keeping a haddoni carpet anemone, and I managed to keep it happy until I had to move and take down the tank. I think I have an idea of what I'm looking for and what kind of equipment I'll need as what I remember doesn't seem too out of date, but I was wondering if anyone had tips on where to source a ~30 gallon nano system. At first glance, the Red Sea Max Nano seems ideal, even at the pricetag, it seems to have the caliber of parts I'd be looking at otherwise which means it's actually about the same price as a brand new DIY if not slightly cheaper, but I'm happy enough to do my own setup, convert, or buy used to rehab. Looking for approximately a cube shaped display (not too wide) in the 30 gallon ballpark (maybe 20-40, but only on the high end if some is in a sump) with a stand, and I'd be after a good skimmer and LED lighting for sure. My preference has always been rimless and open top, and from what I've seen of current models, that hasn't changed. Any tips on companies/models/vendors to look into to get a tank? I'm probably a month or two out from having enough together to get anything wet, so there's still time to consider a bit, and a substantial bit of shopping to do...