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Javed Aman

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Tang

Tang (6/13)

  1. Looking to try out new foods for coral, especially for SPS. I currently have no fish and just feed whatever and whenever: reef-roids, gonipower, brightwell amino, acropower, and roti-feast. Has anyone tried oyster feast from reef nutrition? What were your experiences? Do you know where I can find it locally?
  2. Meant "hydrogen sulfide" not hydrogen peroxide. I've added my name to the list for the PAR meter for that reason. If I remember right, the bottom of tank was reading around 50 par and the top was around 300. Since I'm currently able to keep SPS on the bottom of the tank and can only grow coralline only in the shaded areas, I suspect in the past the bottom was actually 250 (right now it's probably 150ish). At the top, where it was probably 500+. But I won't know of sure until I get the PAR meter.
  3. So I've slowly began rebuilding my tank and am at the point again where I can keep SPS (for at least a couple of months so far). I suspect three things happened: 1. Starting with dry rock the tank just wasn't particularly stable. Having zero nitrates/phosphates at certain periods caused issues with dinos, but I think the wild swings and me tinkering trying to fix it effed it up. No more bacteria dosing. I removed the stupid Marine pure blocks and threw some live sand in the sump and things seem much better. 2. Lights were too bright!!! I have 3 x G4 XR15 with 4x 48" T5 over a 75 gallon. Running the LEDs at +70% was frying everything. My Seneye PAR meter was under measuring the PAR too. My SPS haven't browned out at 37%! I'm slowly ramping them up hopefully up to 45%ish. 3. I used the waterpik on the rocks. While it's fantastic for cleaning frags, it has a tendency to pulverize the surface of the rocks, likely releasing a bunch of nasties including but not limited to hydrogen peroxide.
  4. Oh yea, I was just trying to clarify. Thank you for the suggestions!
  5. Well I was saying it logically doesn't make sense to me to start a cycle with dry rock, barebottom, and ammonia-chloride. BRS agrees, they recommend live rock, or dry rock with live sand. Water + dry rock + ammonia with no bacteria should have no cycle because none of the bacteria strains from the ocean exist in that closed system. Don't we usually cycle a tank before adding CUC, corals, frags? Especially when we put a detectable amount of ammonia in it to begin with? I understand if you used something like raw shrimp, which may have encysted bacteria in it from the ocean likely some denitrifying type. Live rock seeding could be a source of that seed bacteria and you would have to wait for it to grow to a sustainable population.
  6. All other tanks I started either began with all live rock or dry rock with live sand. With the "old fashioned" dry rock method using something like ammonia chloride where does the bacteria come from? I'd also like to add, Aquaponics emailed me telling me there was a bug in their first report. They have since corrected it and apparently, my diversity score wasn't so bad. I'm even more stumped now... aquabiomic2.pdf
  7. Right now I have about 4 corals in a 10 gallon, just chilling. I think next time I start a tank it will be with all live rock. No more dry rock barebottom, the tank is just too unstable and it's clear from the results the diversity and the balance goes out of wack even after two years.
  8. I thought about it, but to be honest. I don't know if there was anything on the rock that might have promoted all of this from happening. I bought this rock from another hobbyist. The rock was outside in the backyard for a couple of years. I don't know if something contaminated it. Most likely it is safe and fine, but frankly it just feels like bad juju. Unfortunately they didn't. I was pretty disappointed with the kind of information they gave. The issue is while I have vibrio, I don't have the strains known to harm coral (further down in the report). My tank had the worst balance (3 percentile). Keep in mind I started with dry rock and bacteria bottles. For a couple of weeks before the test I was adding about 12mL microbacter7. The corals always reacted negatively. There is a chance that the vibrio bacteria was more effective at consuming the carbon source that came with the microbacter7 than the strains in the bottle--total speculation though.
  9. If there is any interest in my aquabiomics report--here it is. Too late to really matter, but everything is dead except for a few corals (in another tank now) and the clean-up crew. My biodiversity awful (Vibro took over), and there was apparently some bacterial fish pathogen too. I emailed aquabiomics, hopefully they'll send me an eDNA report on the dinoflagellates (if I really had them). aquabiomics.pdf
  10. Thanks. I'm heart broken. I think the best coarse of action will be to start from scratch and chuck all of the current rock and replace with live rock.
  11. Well after running the UV sterilizer for a day all the fish and coral have died. I was having issues with corals closing when running the UV sterilizer a few days ago. So I only ran it for about 2 hours a day at a time. My thoughts were that the tank was clearing up causing light shock. I did check for stray voltage. Without the ground probe, my tank has 0.08V stray voltage and 0.11V with the UV. With the ground probe the stray voltage is zero. Yesterday I did run it for all day and all night. During the day the corals didn't seem to be negatively affected and the fish were eating fine. This morning I find all of the corals completely closed both fish listless and breathing heavy. Just this afternoon both of the fish have passed and it seemed all of the LPS corals have bailed their polyps. Cleaner shrimp hermits still alive as are some trochus snails.
  12. So I've been struggling with dinos and other issues with my tank for months now. My thread is here: And the reef2eef threads are here: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/toxin-in-tank-corals-dying-fish-dead.818588/ https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/months-of-struggles-high-res-pictures-sorry-long.809314/ I bought a UV sterilizer a week ago and have been using it on and off for a few days (for about an hour). I always noticed the corals would close whenever I ran it, so I kept it short. Yesterday I let it run for most of the day and the entirety of the night. During the day the corals seemed fine. This morning, All of the remaining corals closed up and the last two fish are breathing very heavy. The clownfish is listless and letting the pumps blow it around. I did check for stray voltage with the uv on using my multimeter. Without the UV the tank has 0.08V, with the UV it goes up to 0.11V I think both are pretty low to be any concern. I've tried everything (it's all mentioned in the threads I posted). I was hoping someone could drop by and help me see if I'm missing anything. This has been going on for months and just been getting progressively worse. The aquarium is at my parents house, both are fully vaccinated and I have my first dose. I don't know if this is a strange request, but I don't know what else to try.
  13. The last two fish, one anthias and the clown are still alive. They seem to be close to normal again. The dinos however have come back. I got my UV sterilizer. Is there anything else that I can do?
  14. Yes, part of the microbacter7 dosing was dosing neophos to keep the phosphate between 0.05-0.09 and adding sodium nitrate to maintain between 4-8ppm. I measured and dosed accordingly. I think the theory was for the bacteria to outcompete the dino.
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