jayh

Here is my received list: 07 was the $99/m plan, after that, the $199/m 07/18 WWC Hailsorm Acro WWC Bob Marley Zoa WWC Blizzard Acro WWW Limelight Hydno 08/18 WWC Superman Rhodactis Rainbow Aussie Lord WWC AOI Zoa WWC Purple Up Acro ORA Hawkins Blue Acro 09/18 ORA Pearlberry Acro Tyree Pink Lemonade Acro WWC Dayglo Acro JFOX BiPolar Favites WWW Gold Interstellar

I'll post up tomorrow what I have received so far. I requested basically all, as I have a fairly empty tank at the moment and really would like to watch them grow out. As they grown and if I decide to frag them out to help recover the costs that would be a good thing, but more than likely I'll just end up giving frags away or trade them for others.

I'm doing the gold. Seems to be pretty good value. The samples they provide are not terrible. They are generally the smallest retail size, not just a single shot of whatever. They don't send you duplicates and you can select the species of coral you want. Think of it more of a box of the month club. Yes local people have some great corals as well and I'm sure my $200 could go further, but to each their own.

You have to update the firmware and the code on the box itself, then the cloud works a bit better. I just wish they would intergrated it into the box itself. Do you have update enabled in the settings? Without that enabled, it does not send test data to the "cloud"

I picked one up and set it up. That's louder than expected and the time to test is ~12 mins total. With that being said, it's pretty awesome. Out of the box it was about .1 higher than the Hanna checker. Going to do a few more comparisons over the next few days to really dial in the offset. One thing it's missing is it own internal webpage. I really wish the would implement that capability, but not sure if the system can support that.

my recommendation would be to reduce it after the union, so you would need to use 1 1/2 unions. That way, if you want to move the overflow to a larger tank, you can and support a larger overflow. Just my .02...

All the murky beginnings of a cycle. I went the Dr. Tims route. And before people point out, yes the overflow tubes below are reverse. I broke the stupid thinest plastic in the world nut on the main return, so I move the emergency return over just to get the water flowing. Redsea is sending a replacement, but I also purchased one which will be here on Tuesday at the latest, so I have to deal with the noise until them. Going to pickup some R4221 connections from RedSea so I can do my own overflows, in the event of another failure. The PVC pipe shows up today, so I get to start on that manifold for the pump return and get rid of the flexitube. Also picked up some super sexy cups rather than filter socks. These came from Australia, as I was not a fan of the Red Sea cups they sell. Yes they were more, but I picked up some regular 4inch ones to replace socks on other sumps as well.

I added two more small islands off to each side. One will be for a Zoa garden so it does not take over the main structure and the other I'm not sure. Starting to fill the tank SLOWLY with rodi water now. Going to use the sump as the salt mixing station The two shelves are setup to be for SPS, lower areas are going to be for the less light desired corals. Also the lights are going to drop 4 inches. Cannot wait to finish getting the water/salt in so I can get some par readings on the various future coral homes..

So here is my initial scape. I used Marco rock. Also, I'm going to add two small islands one on each side. Make a zoa island and something else, not sure yet. Thoughts?

Didn't reply to the cost factor, with kessil you would need to purchase the controller as well, or buy/build the Kessil to Apex cable.. I would though ecotech into the mix, as the Reeflink controller can also be used to manage the wave pumps if you have them. Ecotech also has a special module you would have to purchase if you wanted to control them with the Apex.

So I have a few. 3 AI Prime HD's and 3 Hydra 52 (non HD). Here is the deal with the Apex integration. The new Hydra 26/52HD (do not believe the primes) will in a future Apex update will be able to be controlled by the Apex, or so we have been told. This will only be on the Apex 2016 model. There is no ETA on when that will be available. On the old ones (non-HD) you need either a discontinue Apex module to control them, good luck finding that! I just use the Aquailluminaition website to manage the lights, very rarely play with them after they were setup. Sometimes just tweak the balance a little bit, but I'm not in it every day. They are plugged into the EB8 power strip, so if the tank over heads the Apex shuts that power port off to assist in reducing the heat. That is the only Apex integration I have done. I have one of the AI Primes over a 10g nuvo that I use as my Frag/QT tank and one over my Fish/QT tank at the moment. I had two over my 72g Bow front before it was taken down due to a stand issue. I'm currently planning on putting 2 of the Hydra52(non-HD) over a Red Sea 525, still working on that build. The test run that I did they appear to be good, however I will not know Par levels until I get water in that tank, then I will map the par values out with the Seneye meter. There is a Club Par meter that is available as well. BRS has done some great videos about the various lights and the PAR levels they put out. This link is someone who uses the Hydra 26 on a red sea. I would buy them again. Once I get mine up and running, I'll provide the PAR map with lights that I have. Edit: Spelling is hard and formatting

Yeah, glass thickness is about 1/8 of an inch. It's not tempered as others have drilled on them with success. I was eyeballing a drill press to help out with keeping it straight. Good call on the distance from the edge. Thanks for the inputs! edit: spelling is hard...

So, for the tank moved in yesterday and mounted in place. Debating between a flexible tube from the return pump and return or do a pic shot. I kinda like the lower loss with the flexible tube. That's TBD. Right now the tank is filled with tap water to leak test it, get flows dialed in and do a general cleaning of the tank. I ha e 4 gallons of distilled vinigar that I was thinking of dumping in just to make sure any mfg residue is removed before switching over to rodi water, thoughts? Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

So I recently picked up a Red Sea 525 and looking to convert the ATO reservoir into a refugium. What I would to do is put a bulk head into the side for the return to the sump area. Just wondering if anyone has done this before and would be willing to lend a hand and knowledge... Looking to do something like this:

I did look it over, the best I can. Just finishing the stand now. The tank appears fine, but until I am able to get it tank on the stand... Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Well, it finally arrived, kinda. There does not appear to be any damage and hoping to have the stand done this evening... Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

I have a 72bow drilled I would be willing to part with... Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Welcome Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

I have one I was going to put on a 72g bow, but it won't fit. Looking at maybe the next project for this guy, but no ref.. This is made by geosreef.com and does a great job, IMHO....

Not much as changed on the tank. Still have the troll doll look, but appears to be getting a little better. put a IM reactor in with ChemiPure Blue, and that seems to be knocking it down a little. Bought a IM UV sterilizer, which is going to replace the media basket. Current media basket has Marine Pure rubble in there and ChemiPure Blue, going to drop in some new media in the center section of the back tank as the UV sterilizer will take the place of the media basket. Edit: Added Pic. Edit2: Anyone know what the white hitchhiker is on the 2nd shelf rock? Planning on doing a full dip of everyone tomorrow and wanted to know if I should manually remove that if is does not come free by itself.

So I guess this fit here. I have a Nuvo 10 set up on my desk to be a frag tank. It's been a couple of weeks now. Still fighting the GHA. All my frags look like little troll dolls...

Well, this is dead :\ I decided not to go forward with the complete tank rebuild as it is outside of wheelhouse. So, I'm going a slightly different direction and the tank is going to a new home that will get the attention that it will require.

Okay, tried this one this morning and have been fighting with it all day. The "Loop" app will not connect back up to the controller via Bluetooth (android phone). I have had this issue in the past and messing around with it long enough got it back to working state, but no luck this time. I just ordered two AI Primes for the tank, done with this. These Current LED will be benched to the QT tank setup. I cannot recommend the Current LEDs. It's a PITA to get working with an Android Phone, and their App is less than desirable. Great when it works, but getting it to work is a feat in itself.

I'll test the Bluetooth controller in the morning to see what the results are. In the past I recall cycleing the lights for testing and it worked as expected. Would be hard to believe it would not have a small battery to maintain time.

I have a pair from current USA. They are from the orvit line 48 inch. They are over a 72g tank. Anyway, the way I have mine setup, I use the Apex for always on, but tie them to the temp to shut off the outlet if it gets too hot in the tank. Otherwise I just use the built in programming. I have the Bluetooth module, which is light-years better than the remote with control box. Recently I have been thinking of replacing mine and going to something else. Mainly, I'm not happy with the mounting brackets and how the fit on my tank. Had to modify the and just don't feel the are solid enough.