WheresTheReef

Flashing orange means it's in bootloader mode and trying to communicate. Have you unplugged the eb832's power cord and then plugged it back in after 30s? Check the yellow breaker button on the back of it? Try pressing it to make sure it isn't tripped. If the eb832 is ok, you might have to try to remove the module in fusion and then add it back. I had that happen once and it worked after that. The only thing is that you have to reprogram the outlets. It could be an issue with the eb832, but hopefully not.

Honestly, unless you're really emotionally tied to any of your livestock (or have something rare) I'd just sell and/or donate it all. Do you already have a tank set up and cycled where you're moving to? If not then all the more reason to not have to have that stress and added expense especially with fish. You should be able to travel with a limited amount of live animals, but look up TSA rules. Good luck with whichever route you take.

It happens to most at some point. Glad you’re taking this as an opportunity to reboot the system and not tossing in the towel. Good luck with the new system and take the time to redo all those things you wish you did differently from the previous build.

Congratulations! They definitely come on their own schedule. Hope mom is doing well too. Enjoy the ride, they grow up way too fast.

Fit in a bucket to soak the whole thing in vinegar?

If approved, I believe you will need to list a price, but can still be OBO.

Probably expelling zooxanthellae while trying to acclimate. IME it was euphyllia trying to acclimate to an increase in the light intensity. Just leave it in one spot and see if it will be happy. It has to acclimate every time you move it.

Nice! I'm not running the light, but tinkering with stuff is a fun part of the hobby. 👍 Did you test if the light schedule was smoother with less/more points. For example, ever hour vs every 0.5hrs? Does their controller interpolate the plotted points?

Any obvious changes to the tank? Different light, changed intensity, change in flow etc? Have there been any swings in tank chemistry? What kind of fish do you have in there? Any possibility of coral nipping, or a clownfish trying to host it? Have you throughly inspected the coral for parasites? Have you tried to dip it? Have you moved it to a different location in the tank to see if it will be happier? How is the tissue along the skeleton? Any noticeable tissue recession? Antibiotics shouldn’t the first go to since they are overused. You can’t miss brown jelly. It’s very distinctive and strong smelling.

Isn't your tank fairly new? Do you have any corals in there, if so what kind? If your tank is new, there will be some dkh drop due to an incomplete nitrogen cycle. Once the slow anaerobic bacteria establishes, the dkh drop due to cycling will drop off. In the past, I ran LPS tanks without even dosing with regular water changes. When dosing anything, I always find it's best to do it manually until you find the consumption rate with testing. Since the levels are rising, you're dosing more than your tank is consuming.

I agree cutting glass is easy. If you do cut your own, make sure and sand the edges. Last thing you want is to cut your hand/arm when you are working in the sump.

If it's glass then I would repair it with glass and silicone for the best bond. It depends on where you are located. In the past I've gotten pieces from Lowes. I also used a glass shop in Laurel, which has been renamed since then (https://www.lgmglass.com/).

Praziquantel only works on flukes, worms etc (https://humble.fish/community/threads/praziquantel.25). I’m more scared of other diseases/parasites such as velvet, brook and uronema. Btw, you can go fallow with many parasites, but something nasty like uronema can survive in your tank without fish. To answer your question, I wouldn’t treat my DT. Many “reef safe” options can prove to be far from that. At the end, it’s about risk management. However, it’s our fish that suffer the consequences. Not trying to be preaching. Believe me, I’ve made my share of mistakes. That includes losing the dump and pray approach on two occasions early on. On the flip side, I’ve lost fish in QT too but in those cases the fish were in bad shape to begin with. Just from experience, my fish keeping became much more successful and the fish that made it into the DT were healthier after they went through my QT. I’m just getting back into the hobby and have a few fish being treated in my QT. https://photos.app.goo.gl/FtbsjkmD37diFKXw9

The biggest issue with your strategy is that you can have something in the tank from a previous fish. Introducing an expensive fish, regardless of source, would make it susceptible to whatever is in the tank. The new fish can bring in something too. Ideally we would quarantine everything that goes into the tank. However, it is very tedious and not feasible for everyone. It’s about minimizing your chances of introducing something. A QT can help significantly. Dump and pray works for a while, but the odds eventually catch up and it can be game over.

It's worthwhile trying to determine what you're dealing with. Velvet is way more deadly than ich. The number of spots can be used as a indicator. See link below. https://humble.fish/community/threads/marine-velvet-disease.12/ You can approach this in two ways, eradicate or manage. Eradication requires removing the fish, treating them in a QT and running the tank fallow. Managing means trying to keep high quality water, good nutrition and trying to minimize stress. UV at proper rates can help with both ich and velvet. Setting up a QT, if done correctly, can make a significant impact in success in the hobby. A simple setup such as a 20g long is good enough. It's best to have separate equipment to reduce the chances of cross contamination. https://humble.fish/community/threads/quarantine.2/ You can go about quarantine in two ways. Observation only vs treating prophylactically. A QT for only observation will help you get to know your new fish, look for diseases (treat if needed) and also work to get a new fish eating without competition and stress from other territorial fish. I choose to treat fish to minimize the chances of introducing parasites into the DT where it can destroy your fish population. The QT also helps to minimize acclimation. I adjust the QT to closely match the vendor salinity. Many online vendors run low salinity e.g. 1.018-1.020. I always ask before the fish ship, but also verify when the fish arrive. I can then float them for temp acclimation, and do a very quick water acclimation before putting them into the QT. More recently, I have started performing Safety Stop baths pre-QT. Just know that part A does have formalin so it requires safe handling. Of course, it all begins with sourcing fish that are somewhat healthy. Unfortunately, loss is likely inevitable, but it looks like you've lost a lot of fish. What time span? How did you lose them? Did they die immediately and do you know what they died of? Having something like velvet in the DT and introducing a stressed fish can create an outbreak and lead to significant loss. If you're buying from a vendor with very unhealthy fish likely means you need to find another source of livestock imo. Trying to minimize fish loss should be a high priority since we are dealing with living animals that depend on us to survive. It's good for you to take a step back to analyze how you're doing things and see what you can do differently moving forward.

Looking good

Did you try to delete the module after the upgrade and then allow the Apex to redetect it? I had an issue where the display was stuck showing the stats and that fixed the issue. I have the 2016 Apex EL model though.

Testing is best way to figure out your next step. Test for ammonia/nitrites to check the cycle. There may be some die off from the old tank sand that will add ammonia, but I prefer to add 2 ppm of ammonia and track the cycle. Once ammonia and nitrites drop to 0 in ~24hrs I consider the tank cycled to add some livestock slowly. Adding ammonia can be toxic to anything alive in the tank. My 2c, I'd be getting the tank ready for fish and coral. I would get rid of anything obviously alive (snail/coral) and cycle the tank with ammonia. I would wait on the skimmer until the cycle is complete. I wouldn't add any carbon until the cycle is complete. I wouldn't add chemipure until the nutrients in the tank measured elevated. If you go the route with corals, they will need some nutrients so no need to strip them all out of the water. There are many ways to do this, I prefer to let the testing guide my decisions. I'm starting up a tank too. I got out of the hobby after 13 years, but didn't even last a year out lol. I'm currently cycling the DT and fish QT.