RW09903

Hi Everyone, One more question. I plan on hanging the lights about a foot to a foot and a half above my 120. Should I go with 90 or 120 optics? Worried 120 would be too wide.

Thanks for the advice, as I am trying to to provide the best environment for my fish and coral too. I am used to seeing 13-15 megaohms/cm, not 2.9-5.1 which the unit is reading currently. It might be time for servicing still.

I might be able to stop by over winter break. Questions about reefing always run through my head and I am always interested to listen to everyone's opinions. I think I am leaning 2 IT2060's still. Might use the T5 on my planted discus tank.

That is an awesome conversion calculator. You would like a ppm below 5 to be considered DI, correct? I also found this chart.

Is water filtered at 3.0-5.0 mega ohms/cm still safe for reef aquariums? The stuff I usually get is filtered between 15-18 mega ohms/cm.

So overall, going with LED will likely save on maintenance ie bulbs... and I should be better growth. I paid nearly $200 for the T5 + nearly $100 a year for the bulbs. Sounds like IT2060's is the best bet.

i heard some people run at 50 to 60%. If that is the case then im in. gmerek2: Did you purchase already?

I was leaning toward two IT2060s since I have the center brace. How much energy would I save switching to LED light?

Hello All, Since I have slowly started collecting more SPS in my 120g(4x2x2), I believe it is time to upgrade from my 4 bulb T5. I was looking into several of the Evergrow systems. Any suggestions as to which direction i should go? Thx

I was looking intoo buying the alk and phosphate checker. Maybe the calcium cheker as well. Just wanted to see if anyone had bad experiences with them.

Hello All, I am debating if I should proceed with purchasing Hanna Checkers for several parameters. Does anyone have any advice or opinions about these devices? Thanks

I agree.

My base rock sits directly on the tank bottom covered with a DSB (Not sure how I can get much more bacteria gorwing on that surface). As far as the rest of the live rock, yes; the less dense the better.

U'll be surprised with how heavy some of the rocks are as well. My current 120g tank has 150lbs live rock. I still feel like I have room to add more. My base rocks are dense and not a course as some of the other live rocks in my tank.

Ehh... woke up this morning and they were all gone. Maybe next time...

Hello All, Has anyone had any luck caring for clownfish eggs/fry? My pair of Clarkii clowns laid eggs a day or so ago and I wanted to gauge the difficulty with raising them. I was thinking about buying live Roti's and maybe a small breeder tank if it's worth it. Any suggestions or recommendations are welcomed!

They only featured one tank on the episode. If you go into the mini eatry,there is a smaller tank with a few clowns, damsels and tangs. I remember the main tank being filled with angels, look downs, triggers, puffers, etc... I do not blame the guys from TANKED, as they only build and install. I would like to know who does the maintenance. I think it's sad too.

As some of you might know, the guys from TANKED came by and make two custom aquariums for Annapolis Mall. if you are familiar with the tanks, does it seem like there are substantially fewer fish in both systems?

Anthias anyone? To me, there is nothing more beautiful than a school of anthias in a reef tank.

Do you know how long the sale will go on?

i too didn't realize what I would have started.

Thanks for the link, This was more or less the discussion I wanted to start. I feel that there is more than one method in creating a well established system. Whether you decide to take a more natural method with refugium mud... less water changes,,etc... OR use dosing pumps/skimmers/reactors (high tech equipment), it is still possible to create a stable ecosystem how ever you choose. With that said, I will continue to perform a 10-15% water change on a weekly basis. I just wanted to know if others are sucessful in creatin a ecosystem which allows nature to do the work for them.

I have been performing a 10-15% water change on a weekly basis on my 120g tank. I recently added corals to the system to add color anf depth. As I researched about different corals, I came across several articles about setting up a aquarium that does not require water changes (only top offs). Is this possible?

Thank you for all the suggestions. Thanks! Wish i joined earlier...

Whats going on Miggs! Thanks for the Cap corals by the way! I will take your advice and try reef roids for everything else..