Smorf

http://www.humanesociety.org/issues/puppy_mills/timelines/petland_investigation.html

Just a few random pictures... Here's my Ricordea rock thanks to the latest group buy: Finally was able to capture these two guys together: Discovered how long a nassarius snail can get (so rare to see mine out of the sand):

Also watch the first minute or so of this, this would be how you connect the plastic r/o line to the Tee:

YH, here is what you can look for at Home Depot today. You want a brass compression Tee that will screw into your current shutoff valve for your cold water line. It will probably be 3/8" x 3/8" x 1/4". The 3/8" female side will screw onto your old shutoff valve, your braided line for the sink will screw onto the 3/8" male side, and the R/O line will go in the 1/4" side. Start with a piece of R/O tubing that is maybe 6" long. then place one of your white shutoff valves on that. Then use a longer piece to get to your RO unit. Here is an example of the Tee: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202309860/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=compression+fttings&storeId=10051#.UR-3EqWsh8E This one is 3/8" all around, but they may have one that is 1/4" on one output, if not, there are reducers that go from 3/8" compression to 1/4" compression. And since it looks like it doesn't come with a compression nut for your R/O line: http://www.homedepot...51#.UR-y66Wsh8E PM me if you need help with this, I am free today if needed. I worked at Home Depot for 4 years, including one year in plumbing, so I'm pretty good at "making pieces fit".

If you are talking about the green thing near the coral, it might be majano (a pest anemone). Here's a detailed pic of one I found with a google search: http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp198/AlohaCorals/PPE_Manjano.jpg

So far I'm running the white and blue channels at 50%. I LOVE the blues way better than my actinic T5 bulbs. Some of the corals look radioactive now. I'm not sure about the whites yet, I mixed the bulbs a bit, and I'm getting a little bit of the "disco ball" effect. I might start with removing some of the optics on the non-white leds (red, green) to see how that looks. If that doesn't work, I ordered lots of extra LEDs.

Evergrow D120 from the group buy that just completed.

Thanks to the latest LED group buy, I have some new lights!!! Close ups of hanging system: I started drilling holes in the ceiling to hang the lights like pendants, but I discovered there is a rigid duct running the whole length of the tank . So I ran back to Home Depot and scrounged up what you see here. The brackets are "closet rod hangers" and the rod is just a 4 ft closet rod. The white lamp chain is from the hardware department. I currently have the lights 10" off the water, and at half intensity. I will slowly play with turning up the intensity and/or moving the lights down. Any recommendations as far as mounting height goes? My tank is 24" deep, and I have 90 degree optics.

Yea, my refugium light is the same bulb that is in most of the lights in my house.

I think it's purely cosmetic. PAR is more important than the Kelvin rating.

Yes, I put some Xenia down in my fuge temporarily to let it attach to some rocks and even after I moved it to the DT I have little Xenias sprouting in a few different places. And I think my lights are 5500K

There is a chance you could stir up some nasty stuff that was hidden from flow before. My advice (which is worth the price you paid for it) is just to rearrange and then siphon out as much stirred up debris as you can and then do your nominal water change.

Looks like this would barely fit, SWC 180 cone: http://www.saltwaterconnection.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=149&zenid=a079bbffba9f0f5d2dc87bcf9d52e218

You don't need expensive software. Shoot in RAW format and use Gimp (free editing software) to edit the white balance. http://graphicssoft....ite-Balance.htm Webpage for Gimp http://www.gimp.org/

I have added a few new critters. Here's my Yellow Watchman Goby guarding the fort (tiger pistol not shown): Kole Tang: Giant Frogspawn: Duncan, probably my favorite coral in the tank so far: Current FTS:

You could wire up a bank of these http://www.globalind...tor-light-white Have you seen Melev's setup? http://www.melevsreef.com/power_panel.html The link is his old setup, then he links to his newer setup at the bottom of that page.

Also I liked this article: http://www.beananimal.com/articles/electricity-for-the-reefer.aspx

You can run parallel GFCI's off the same circuit. I did it on my stand. Each gang box has it's own GFCI. You can trip any one and the other 2 are unaffected. I wanted GFCI protection, but didn't want every piece of equipment to shut off all at once.

Check the Club News forum. They have posted a date for the next meeting, but location is still TBD... http://wamas.org/forums/forum/1-club-news/

I made due with only an 18v cordless drill for years. If you were to buy an 18V RYOBI from Home Depot, plus a countersink bit, you should be all set for this project. (18v not needed, but nice to have)

When you ask the associate to cut your plywood, ask them to please go slow as you are using it to make furniture. Some of them get in a hurry and will rip the plywood as fast as possible leaving you a rough cut. I know this because I worked at Home Depot for 4 years (I tried to go slow) but I know sometimes the associates just want to get you out of there.

I built my stand with 1/2" plywood on top, and 1/4" plywood on the front/sides. Here's a pic: I stained and put a couple coats of polyurethane to protect from water spillage. The thickness is really just personal preference. The frame is what will hold all the weight, the plywood doesn't add a whole lot more structural stability. Thinner wood is easier to cut and carry around. 3/4" plywood will be beefy but will double the weight of your stand.

I was using an unsafe combination of powerstrips to power everything for a couple weeks, so over the holidays I put together a little "power center" to move the outlets away from the water and hopefully make everything safer. Here's a pic: The 3 gang boxes are each protected by their own GFCI. If one box trips the rest will still work. The 2 switches you see each control the single outlet below the switch. One is the protein skimmer, and the other is the return pump, these 2 items being the only things I seem to turn off (for water changes). The whole unit is attached to the left side of the aquarium stand on the outside. The box built around it should hopefully keep water and salt creep off the outlets. I'm certainly not an electrician, but I feel more comfortable using this than the cheap plastic power strip I was using before.

Here's some newer pics. I added 2 oscellaris clowns a few days ago: They sleep funny: And probably the most exciting part....My transition to a real reefer! FTS from today, 1/3/13, need more corals!

Ok, it seems I can't edit some of the earlier posts, but here's the pictures I had posted so far, as well as a few new ones. First FTS with water: A few days later: What I'm calling the Jungle Rock: Bubbles Generated by said Jungle Rock: