AlanM

Set the Control Type to "Advanced" and add a line "If Time 20:00 to 22:00 Then ON" to the commands that are probably in the box: Fallback ON Set OFF If Time 10:00 to 13:00 Then ON If Time 20:00 to 22:00 Then ON If Tmp > 81 Then OFF Min Time 001:00 Then OFF I'd probably set Fallback to OFF as well so that if the EB8 loses contact with the head unit it wont revert to turning the lights on. Off is safer.

depending on the voltage and current output I might have a meanwell from a DIY build here that could work in a pinch. What's it say on the power supply brick?

Where are you located?

FYI, I made a weirflow google sheet long ago to calculate how high the water level will be over the toothless weir for a given width and flow rate. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1zguJ29X4CIA6SjvPmMsB-ab2QU3ndKfI4avp4PSO-PM/edit?usp=sharing

I had a toothless weir on my 75g tank. It was very successful, but I did get stuff going over it all the time. Even a fish or two. It wasn't ideal. I eventually used gutter guard which did help somewhat. It does allow for fantastic flow over the overflow, and is dead quiet, but you pay the price in livestock somewhat. I recommend teeth now. It's harder to do diy, but works better. It cuts the flow down by more than the percentage area obscured by the teeth because of the extra surface tension, but over time can be just as quiet because slime builds up and calms down the turbulence. That said, a DIY toothless weir can work just fine. If you make it wide enough then the height over the weir can be very small for fairly high flow rates to lessen the chance of a fish going over. Snails will, though. Especially nerites.

What do you mean by making one with no weir? The water has to "overflow" over something, which to me means a weir. With teeth or without. Do you mean maybe putting an elbow with a strainer on the inside of the tank or something like that?

yeah, what Kathryn said is correct. You need a gate valve where the main drain pipe enters the sump and the pipe beyond that valve should extend below the surface of the sump water only a little bit to allow all of the air to get out of the line when the pump starts up. Ball valve is easier to get at Lowes or Home Depot, but you won't like trying to slightly adjust it to get the water level in the external box correct.

my first guess would be that the GFO has fine particles and is escaping the reactor and getting pulled out into the skimmate. Second guess (less likely) would be that the GFO has reduced your nutrients enough that now the only micro-fauna that can survive is dinoflagellates and that's what the orange/brown color filling your skimmate is, but I doubt that is the answer because you can see the same color in your reactor. Do you see any signs of brown slime during the bright part of the photo period?

I'm getting ready to plumb in a kalk stirrer myself. I'll put it on my DOS and may use the other channel of the DOS for Mg or other supplements. Or maybe still dose extra alk with the other channel since alk is used for other things than just making calcium carbonate...

I don't think you need to divide it manually like that. Just put in the total amount over your 23 hours and the DOS will figure it out.

On desktop browser I typically can upload whatever I want and the forum software resizes them upon upload. I have only very rarely tried to post anything on phone and never one with photos. Maybe the tapatalk interface would work better for image uploads from phone?

For reference, I am on the current firmware of Apex in March 2024. This just happened again today after the time change.

Next meeting in North Bethesda is Colin Foord from Coral Morphologic. The one after that should be Joe.

I'm interested in the fish system and all the work you do with the fish vet doing diagnosis as well.

Man, that is awesome Paul. Showing the family the video.