dread240

I run a dual head single motor peristaltic pump for mine. My system hasn't been up and running since the move but will be going right back into service when I get the 315g done. one pumps in and the other pumps out. I ran that system for over 2 years without issues. Since they both moved the same water the auto top off still ran just as normal and I never had salinity drift either.

are you metal halide now? why do you need a chiller?

starfire has great visibility but scratches easier then glass, and is not as easy to fix scratches as acrylic. I had this battle in my head for weeks and ultimately just pulled the trigger on a 315g acrylic

Need to hurry, this can be my last item to practically be hands off with my tank 100%

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH tank maintenance... I've never called it that

I've read reports though that the crew dropped anchor exactly where they were told, and then moved once notified of the damage. This really sucks but from what I've seen I wouldn't really put the crew at fault, it just sucks

Well my parts are finally starting to show up. I'm doing a custom built fixture with the reef led lab 12-up pucks, optics and diffusers, and meanwell LDD drivers (up to 1500ma for the whites) It's very heavy with the violets. 4 of the 12 LED's are violet on the board, and I had great success when I started mixing some of them into my older fixture I had built years ago. The only problem I see with them for your application is that you'd need 2 pucks to cover your application, and if you wanted the full customization of the spectrum you would require 7 drivers just for those 2 pucks. I'm not sure how long you have until you do this. I doubt my tank will even be up and running until sometime in april, but if you're still looking at that point I could see what channels are running at what intensity and you could dial back the required drivers and controls. Maybe shave it down to 3 or so channels to get the light you want. http://reefll.com/12xV3.0 I also bought a couple of these diy housings for them too. http://www.aquastyleonline.com/products/AE%252d30-Aluminum-Heatsink-16.5cmX6cmX30cm.htmlThey just arrived yesterday and they look pretty good. I didn't get the hanging kits but did opt for the fan brackets in case I need some cooling.

no disasters here other then my flights being cancelled postponing my texas trip.

I'm slightly surprised at this. I had a triac outlet go out last year and the very first thing offered to me was a temp eb8 for the time being (i pay for it, get refunded after the warranty ticket). I thought that was highly reasonable imho. I did ask about just getting credit back once they received mine but they said it'd be repaired and sent back out. Soon as the temporary eb8 was received back to them I got refunded.

I'm actually going to say no to the bottles of bacteria they sell to start with. I think really you need to come up with a few things right now as now is the time to do it before you start stocking the 180. Have you had any suspicion at any point there might be parasites or unwanted hitch-hikers in your tank? Have you or do you plan on quarantining from here on out? Those are the main things to think of. It sounds like you have an established tank already. Therefore you should have some established rock. That rock has been maintaning your fish in the 55 for the time being, because the tank is going to be bigger does not mean that the same rock you have now is inadequate to maintain the bacteria for what you already own (meaning your current stock list) Yes obviously you will need more as the bio load increases, but for the transfer you shouldn't need anything. You could put more dry rock in there and slowly increase your bio load as that dry rock becomes live rock. If however there's any problems or concerns you have now with the 55, this is the time to fix it before you start off with an uphill battle. The most common would be ich. If you've battled it in the past in your 55, you may want to setup that 180, move the live rock in and let it stay fallow for a bit while you keep the fish alive through tank transfers and the such. Again, just think about it. This is the time to correct problems. I QT'd every fish I ever got but I didn't QT a few corals... and I've ended up battling polyclad flatworms because of it. Not super destructive, but they attack clams, and on top of that they kill snails, so for me, when the 400g system goes up, my current live rock will get completely bleached and I will start with fresh liverock. I will probably try and save a few things from it, I like the mini brittle stars, get a decent colture of pods out of it, but nuke the rest.

Noice, tool? Ever looked @ carolina rebellion? I went last year, was amazing for a 3 day festival.

oh and I guess for how prepared I am..... well I'll probably be drinking something alcoholic at melev's house in texas instead of worrying about it lol

Heh, no really, those smaller systems really shouldn't require much. I'd say the majority of the costs involved though are that you're paying jiffy lube to come to you basically, using a vehicle they purchased, and are also paying the guy, but realistically most of the guys that I know that work on the home products are the equivalent of the jiffy lube guys in our field. It is a totally different ballgame then what I handle these days in my new position, but that's what I learned on was smaller product like that. I will say this much though for you and anybody that does have a home standby system like that. While the hours may not be much, a proper installation should have that thing near operating temperatures and conditions at all time. The oil can also get a moisture content in it affecting it's ph as well. The systems I work on are so big and have so much that we send the oils out for analysis to let us know if they need to be changed. On a smaller setup like yours, it's best to just change it and not worry about it as the testing cost is higher then the oil change cost. Also... USE THE darn THINGS. One of the worst things to do to a generator is to not use it. If it runs weekly does it actually transfer your house to it? (i.e. do you see a quick power outage at the start and end of the test?) If not I'd highly suggest doing that at least once a month, more if feasible. That keeps the moisture out of the windings in the stator, keeps good residual magnetism if it's a self excited end, and those motors are built looser then your standard car motor as they're designed for prolonged periods of heavy load, not sitting there at idle. They're more prone to having issues like fuel leaking past the rings and all on short no load runs or fouling up plugs then if you were to actually put a good solid load on it and get it up to full temperature. They are pretty darn close to a standard car, but there's enough different that you have to take into consideration. By all means though, if you're ever having an issue, hit me up first and I'll try and walk you through it before you get a big bill from a company

not terribly far from my office. I'll have to check it out when I get back from texas

LOL, Dave those things are way below my normal scope of work but if you really need someone to give it a good once over I'd do it. My systems are normally anywhere from 5 to 30 generators in parallel (all like 70+ liter capacity engines too)

all my research has been into building your own fixtures... Just dropped $1600 tonight on supplies for the new lights for my 280 :-\

180's are definitely I think the best entry level big tank imho. Great room for aquascaping, not terrible for lighting, they just flat out work. Honestly the only reason I'm going with the 280 is since it's 2 sided viewable I kinda want a '180' on each side

I'm going to be selling alot but only because of a big upgrade. Some of us do stick with it, I'm 9 years into it now

I actually don't need space under this tank in the slightest. All filtration will be a seperate room, and other then a small access door to get to the fittings on the one end of the tank I won't need to get anywhere else on it. Has always been kind of a dream build of mine and finally moving into a home I plan on staying there long enough to do it.

Hey guys, Just wondering if anybody has done this or would have any information. I'm looking at putting a 6-10' tank in my basement and want to divide 2 rooms with it and make it 2 sided visible. The wall it's going into is a block wall, so I have to get the lintel and all installed to open it up. The main issue is that the floor is going to have to get redone (concrete floor but it's 2 different levels on each side of the wall). I was thinking 2 options here. Use the concrete block on one side of the 'table' that the tank will sit on and build out with wood to the other side, or cut and pour a new pad next to it to bring the level up even and just use block to get it up to the right levels. I do not need access under this at all as I'm going to put a penninsula style overflow on it there and filtration will be in it's own seperate room. Any tips or builds you know of that may be similar? I'm looking to get started on this asap. Also is anybody here capable of doing block work and stuff like that? If not I'll be hiring a contractor for it.

next monday is my birthday, so there's a solid chance I'll be trying to recover from a wicked hangover on saturday night, but I wouldn't mind lending a hand

No need to end it at the day, it's smart enough to roll over Fallback OFF Set OFF If Time 22:00 to 11:00 Then ON

you got it!

The apex automatically assigns outlet port numbers when it detects an eb8 If you go into configuration > Module setup in the apex software, you will see the number assigned to your eb8. Mine for instance is 5 Then the outlets start at the top left as 1 through 4 on the top row, 5 through 8 on the second row. You can tell which outlet your programming in configuration > outlet setup The drop down menu always has the port or outlet # in the parenthesis next to the outlet name. Mine are 5_1, 5_2 and so on through 8. Once you select one of those and type in the outlet name it will then display the programmed outlet name in the drop down menu as well for outlets and ports

are you trying to program over ethernet, from the display, or fusion?