xyrophobic

I don't want to hijack this thread so say something DATA and I will start a new one. I am running GFO currently and the sand is only a few months old and I really don't like the look of no sand, though that would be better than the look of an underwater jungle. I was going to make a scrubber but have not been able to visualize one that will work for my setup. I have seen the ones that sit above the sump and run down the mesh, this looks like it would work the best but it is a lot of materials wasted if it does not work. With the mixed reviews I have seen on scrubbers I have been slow to try that idea. I do need to get a ton of cheato for my fuge, the last bit I had died off but I have some feather culp that is running strong. I will try to find some cheato near me and pluck as much GHA this weekend as I can and see if that will start to stem the tide. Thanks all and DATA for starting this thread with the perfect title.

I am reading 0 ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates. My phosphates are around .01 as read by a hanna checker. The tank is only 10 months old and has very few inhabitants (2 clowns, 1 tang, 1 small wrasse, assorted CUC). The sand is new but the rock I got from someone else, the only thing I can think of at this point is maybe it needs to be cooked to release anything pent up in the rock.

BRK usually has the Apex.

the reason I posed the question was I have seen my tank which was running around 7.8 PH (no CA reactor) rise dramatically when I opened the windows. I have had the GHA issue for 6+ months and for a few weeks in the middle it seemed to be all dying off and not returning. This time frame lined up with fall and when my windows where open consistently. Since Winter started and the windows were mostly closed I have noticed the GHA start to be more prolific and my normal PH rise to 8.3 consistently. I have tried 2 sea hares a month apart and both starved within a week while sitting on a GHA patch, for some reason they did not eat my GHA. When they first entered the tank they ate a small patch and then stopped. Both sea hares were confirmed to be GHA eaters before I bought them. I am trying to get an airline to the outside connected to my skimmer but the distance the air needs to be sucked is making the skimmer not produce much foam. My goal is to add an inline fan and positive air flow to the air intake.

Random question for the experts, could a home with high CO2 cause GHA to thrive?

I am using one, it is nice to see the swings in conductivity that happen daily based on the temp. Overall it really has not done a lot for the tank other then being another reading that will change from the norm if something goes wrong. If I knew what I know now I would have got the second PH probe and stuck it in my QT tank along with a temp sensor and that would have been alot more useful. But I like readings and technology so I but stuff just to play with anyway.

I am pretty sure those are photoshopped. Though Cleveland was on the 1000 bill.

Hermit -y The soundtrack makes it sound delicious

Did you check out these videos? http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/brs-tv/carbon-gfo-videos

I use a mag5 to feed a manifold (a pvc pipe capped on both ends with several threaded ts on it so I can add on in the future), two of the t's go to my two single reactors. I have too much flow as is but have room for expansion, but I also have a ton of space around my sump as it is in a room behind a wall so my decision was based on ease not price or space.

I would go with two singles so you can control flow to each independently. As well as keep one running if you need to change out the other. But it depends on what you want to spend and if you have the space. I run two singles with a single pump so I do not need to worry about having two pumps and outlets, etc.

I bought one of these for installing a light and it has been awesome for getting into my tank. Very sturdy and pretty slip resistant. Also great palce to set a bucket next to you while working off the floor. I also use it to wash my truck and have never slipped on it. It was worth every penny. Werner work platform

petland is having a sale today too.

Spirorbid Worms maybe. http://www.melevsreef.com/id/spirorbid_worms.html

+1. Would also like to know if it is better or complimentary to macros in the fuge/sump

After the firmware upgrade to 4.11, I have had no false alarms or phantom power outages. Makes me wonder if they have something faulty and just programmed the system to ignore the "noisy" hardware issues. I hope that I do not run into the issues others seem to have that require replacement/repair.

After the upgrade to 4.11 it has been quiet, time will tell if this is the real fix or just a lull in the activity. Thanks for the help.

Neptune has had me upgrade the firmware, quite standard. I will see if that works. Chad it does seem odd that it is relatively the same amount of time but in the 15 alarms I received today it has a range from 15 secs to close to 60 secs, I just happened to post two in the median.

Thanks for the help, I have contacted Neptune to start the process. I have tried multiple circuits and backup power also.

True it is for less that a minute but there is no noticeable power loss. All devices continue to run, lights on the EBs stay on. Only thing that you can see is the display shows the temp/ ph drop to near zero and begin climbing again as well as the alarm beep. I also have tried using a power brick on the base unit. Everything is working correctly except for the annoying messages / alarms which come as often as every 10 mins to weeks apart. Attached is the program.xml full snippet: Alarm Statement: If Temp < 77.0 Then ON Oct 20 2011 11:10:13 Temp pH ORP 75.3 7.52 22 Cond 37.2 VarSpd1_I1 is OFF Manual VarSpd2_I2 is OFF Manual VarSpd3_I3 is OFF Manual VarSpd4_I4 is OFF Manual SndAlm_I6 is OFF Auto SndWrn_I7 is OFF Auto EmailAlm_I5 is ON Auto actinic is ON Auto daylight is OFF Auto mp10_circ is ON Auto blank_3_4 is OFF Manual return_pump is ON Auto reactors is ON Auto heater is ON Auto topoff_p is OFF Auto QT_light is ON Auto mix_tank is OFF Manual air is OFF Manual ref_light is ON Auto QT_heat is OFF Manual QT_tank is ON Auto skimmer is ON Auto ref_pump is OFF Manual sump_add is OFF Auto RO_low is OFF Auto RO_high is OFF Auto blank_A4 is OFF Manual sump_low is OFF Auto sump_high is OFF Auto blank_A7 is OFF Manual auto_feed is OFF Auto Lunar is OFF Auto Power Failed: Oct 20 2011 11:08:55 Power Restored: Oct 20 2011 11:09:33 program.xml

I have an Apex system with two EB8s a PM2 and lunar sim. I have been getting intermittent alarms that trigger the low temp statement. It seems, by looking at the alarm email, that I am loosing power for a split second which makes the temp zero out and start climbing again. The whole issue is not even noticeable if you happen to be in the room and staring at the system. I do have a home made breakout box (short din cable cut and screwed into a radioshack connection block) which is connected to 5 float sensors in assorted locations. Everything is new (less than 3 months) and the floats are installed in a way that keeps the dry sections from getting wet. I have not had a chance to upgrade to the newest firmware but the system did have the most recent a month ago and the issue existed then. I was hoping someone may have heard of something like this and may have some insight. My next step is to contact Neptune support and or try to run the system with the without the breakout to see if it is a random ground / noise issue. I am looking forward to running without the floats as I will have to figure out a new method of ATO while it is down. I am pretty confident of my wiring ability so I do not think I did that wrong though I wonder if I should connect the din cable shield to the common pin of the breakout. Any ideas from the automation experts? alarm snippet: Alarm Statement: If Temp < 77.0 Then ON Oct 20 2011 09:37:38 Temp pH ORP 79.0 7.93 0 Cond 37.0 VarSpd1_I1 is OFF Manual VarSpd2_I2 is OFF Manual VarSpd3_I3 is OFF Manual VarSpd4_I4 is OFF Manual SndAlm_I6 is OFF Auto SndWrn_I7 is OFF Auto EmailAlm_I5 is OFF Auto Power Failed: Oct 20 2011 09:36:03 Power Restored: Oct 20 2011 09:36:40 Power OK: EB8_3 (0 Days 00:00 - 5.7 Amps) Power OK: EB8_4 (0 Days 00:00 - 1.8 Amps)

I just realized I typed 2 250w heaters, I meant 2 150w heaters.

I use two eheim-jager 250w heaters on a 75 gal with sump and an apex controller. A safety trick I found with some research is to set the heater(s) to shutoff a degree or two above the set point on the controller so if the controller temp gauge sticks to the on postion the heaters wont keep heating away. The heater temp gauge acts as a backup to the controller. http://premiumaquatics.com/aquatic-supply/Eboheater.html

I can bring the computers by this Saturday afternoon. Seeing how my tank is still pretty young, I would be interested in an anemone or other beginner coral. @DaveS: PM me with what you want and stuff you have to trade and we can make a deal.

So I have 4 computers: HP/Compaq dx2200 (P4 3.0GHZ, WinXP Pro) 80gb HD, 1G Ram, dvd-r/rw with additonal nvidia video card with dvi and vga connector. HP/Compaq dx2200 (P4 3.0GHZ, WinXP Pro) 80gb HD, 1G Ram, cdr HP/Compaq d220 (P4 2.8GHZ, WinXP Pro) 40gb HD, 768M Ram, cdrw + dvdrom. floppy punch out is missing form case HP/Compaq d220 (P4 2.8GHZ, WinXP Pro) 40gb HD, 768M Ram, cdrom Monitors: 1 17" Acer LCD 1 17" LG LCD (dvi and vga) 2 17" Viewsonic LCD (2 vga, 1 dvi) matching with small bezels great for dual monitor setup. I would be willing to trade for store credit towards CUC, common fish, and common frags depending on what you want. Let me know.