tecsavi

Yes, I am getting out of the hobby. Here a nice set-up for someone who is looking for a turn key reef plus lots of extras.

Complete Cube Reef Tank 49 gallon Marineland cube reef tank system- Complete setup and extras - $500 firm- Cash Only Turnkey cube reef tank, all you need to do is move it. Established tank has been up and running for 5 years. Everything you need to run a successful reef tank including equipment, test kits and additives and many more items. I can't give this tank the attention it deserves. Now it is time to pass it on to someone who can enjoy a great reef setup. **This system is for sale as a complete setup only, I am not parting it out. For pickup only, I will not ship. Located in Martinsburg WV. For directions or more information call (703) 850-two-five-seven-two. If you still see this ad then it's still for sale. Equipment 49 Gallon (170L) Marineland Cube Drilled for corner overflow but currently capped 24"X24"X19.5" (61cm X 61cm X 50cm) Black trim , black silicone, black painted background Custom cube stand Stand is custom made to match the outside dimensions of the tank. Door is located on the left side for nice clean look. Outside dimensions 25" wide x 24 1/8" deep x 29 ½" high. Total tank and stand height is 49" Inside stand dimensions 23 ½" wide x 22 ¾" deep x 26 ½" Large enough to fit sump, ballast and equipment Head unit mounted on outside and power strips inside Current USA Sunpod 250w HQI Stainless steel cable and brushed nickel ceiling mounting kit 14K Heliarc (Phoenix) bulb 4 months old Remora Pro skimmer Standard and large capacity collection cup Penguin Biowheel 350 filter 150 watt Visitherm Stealth heater 1 Koralia nano power heads Reefkeeper Lite controller Head unit Temp probe Power strip All cables CPR in tank refugium with Rio pump ATC Refractometer with 2 calibration fluid bottles Hanna Digital Phosphate meter with 70 or so reagent packets Salifert saltwater test kits Calcium -- 3 kits Alk -- 3 kits Ph -- 1 kit Magnesium -- 3 kits Phosphate -- 1 kit Silicate-- 1 kit Red sea master kit for QT Coral Pink Ricordia -- 10 or so heads Pulsing Xenia Neon Green tree coral Photosynthetic sea fan Toadstool leather Livestock Fire shrimp Cleaner shrimp Fire fish Tomato clown fish Green Chromis Various snails and hermit crabs Books Aquarium corals -- Eric Boreman - softcover Corals-A reference guide -- Julian Sprung -- hardcover Invertebrates -- A quick reference -- Julian Sprung-Hardcover Misc 30lbs live sand Seeded from 5 sources. Filled with worms of all types. 30lbs live rock Coralline algae encrusted with tons of feather dusters and life. Custom molded for this tank Large cave with multiple holes for fish Spare 150w heater for salt mix Asst. power heads for mixing Magnum external filter Mix and pump containers for gallons of calcium, buffer and magnesium additives Magnetic cleaning magnet Carbon Phosphate remover Nets Misc spare equipment saltwater reef, fish, aquarium. lights, skimmer, coral shrimp, cube tank, stand, halide

For directions or more information call (703) 850-two-five-seven-two. If you still see this post then it's still for sale.

Price reduced to $550.

Bump

System still available. Stand is custom made to match the outside dimensions of the tank. Door is located on the left side for nice clean look. Someone asked for stand dimensions so here they are. Outside dimensions 25” wide x 24 1/8” deep x 29 ½” high. Total tank and stand height is 49” Inside stand dimensions 23 ½” wide x 22 ¾” deep x 26 ½”

NYfan78, The hang on the back skimmer (Remora Pro) is the main filtration for the tank. My bio load is very low so it does an excellent job.

Sorry, no sump but it is drilled and plumbed for a sump. Currently capped. This tank sits in my living room and my wife wanted a quiet as possible tank.

Thanks surf&turf. That 125 was a fun tank. That was when I had 3 less kids, more time and more money lol

49 gallon Marineland cube reef tank system- Complete setup and extras - $650 firm Turn key cube reef tank, all you need to do is move it. Established tank has been up and running for 3 years. Everything you need to run a successful reef tank including equipment, test kits and additives. With 4 kids and two jobs I can’t give this tank the attention it deserves. Now it is time to pass it on to someone who can enjoy a great reef setup. For right now system is for sale as a complete setup only, I am not parting it out. For pickup only, I will not ship. Located in Martinsburg WV. I will help the buyer break down the tank. Equipment 49 Gallon (170L) Marineland Cube Drilled for corner overflow but currently capped 24"X24"X19.5" (61cm X 61cm X 50cm) Black trim , black silicone, black painted background No scratches Custom cube stand Large enough to fit sump, ballast and equipment Head unit mounted on outside and power strips inside Custom clear screen top Current USA Sunpod 250w HQI Stainless steel cable and brushed nickel ceiling mounting kit 14K Heliarc (Phoenix) bulb 6 m0nths old Supplimental LED not working Remora Pro skimmer& pump Taam Rio 1400 pump Standard and large capacity collection cup 150 watt Visitherm Stealth heater 1 Koralia 3, 1 Koralia 1 & 1 Koralia nano power heads Reefkeeper Lite controller Head unit Temp probe Power strip All cables Bulk Reef Supply 5 stage R\O D\I unit Inline TDS meter (pre and post DI) Membrane flush kit Pressure gauge Float valve all filters and DI just changed CPR in tank refugium with Rio pump ATC Refractometer with 2 calibration fluid bottles Hanna Digital Phosphate meter with 70 or so reagent packets Salifert saltwater test kits Calcium – 3 kits Alk – 3 kits Ph – 1 kit Magnesium – 3 kits Phosphate – 1 kit Silicate– 1 kit Red sea master kit for QT Coral Pink Ricordia – 10 or so heads Pulsing Xenia Neon Green tree coral Elegance coral Photosynthetic sea fan Toadstool leather Livestock Pair of Sexy shrimp Pair of Fire shrimp Pair of cleaner shrimp Pair of Fire fish Tomato clown fish Green chromis Yellow sea cucumber Various snails Books Aquarium corals – Eric Borneman - softcover Corals-A reference guide – Julian Sprung – hardcover Invertebrates – A quick reference – Julian Sprung-Hardcover Misc 30lbs live sand Seeded from 5 sources. Filled with worms of all types. 30 lbs live rock Coralline algae encrusted with tons of feather dusters and life. Custom molded for this tank Large cave with multiple holes for fish Spare 150w heater for salt mix Asst. power heads for mixing Magnum external filter Penguin bio-wheel 150 HOB filter Mix and pump containers for gallons of calcium, buffer and magnesium additives Magnetic cleaning magnet Carbon Phosphate remover Nets Misc spare equipment

Grat pictures, thanks for sharing. I'm headed to Grand Bahama in May and was curious to see what I could expect to see snorkeling there. Hope it's similar to Nassau. What type of camera were you using for the underwater shots?

Typing this up from memory so it might not be totally correct. Setting the stanby timer: From the General menu select "Standby" The first thing that pops up is the standby time limit, you want 00:15:00 to specify 15 minutes. Use the up and down arrows to set the time. Hit enter to set your time. Then select save. Your time limit for standby mode is now set. Controlling the outlet with standby mode From the modules menu select your PC4 Scroll down (using arrow keys) to the outlet you want to control. Hit enter The first option is standby mode, hit enter. Select off (this specifies to turn off the outlet when standby mode is selected) Hit enter to confirm. Hope this helps. If you join the RKL forum on their website you can download a PDF manual for programming that explains in detail.

+1 on the Dremel tool. If you don't have a Dremel then cut it from the base like the others mention. Use a pair of side cutter pliers and it will cut right through it witha ease. Cutting your first coral is very stressful for sure but you get the hang of it quickly. The advantage of this method is that if you mount it with superglue it looks very natural without the remainder of the frag disk sticking out.

Well my girlfriend gave me a great new camera for Christmas so now I'll throw in a few pictures. My favorite fish in my tank, my Six-line wrasse. This flame angel is really hard to try and photograph. Kind of like taking a picure of the moon, never the same as it looks in real life.

Using vinegar in the curing process will make the concrete brittle. This is like using vinigar to clean coraline algae off of pumps. In the case of frag plugs this might be something you want. I use to use this method when making frag plugs myself because I liked to be able to crumble away the disk when I wanted to mount it. If you are using this mix to make rock for your tank then you dont want to use vinigar. It will be brittle and break easy. Cure your rock in water and change the water every few days. Test the ph of the water before you put your rock in it. Your rock is cured once the rock no longer raises the ph of the water after sitting in it for three days. Typically this can take from 6-8 weeks so don't rush it. You can aerate the water to speed up the process slightly.

Coral Hind that is a nice and healthy looking Sohol Tang. It is by far my favorite fish.

+1 on researching new fish and their requirements. The comments above are right on the mark. I would also suggest you try and get a list of fish you would eventually like to have for your tank and research each fishes needs in detail. This list should be based on your tank size, your skill level, amount of live rock, if you have a sandbed, age of your system and what you envision your tank will be (SPS reef, LPS tanl, mixed...etc). For instance a Mandrin requires a large stable copepod population as it eats them as it's main source of food. This fish would require an established tank, generally have plentiful live rock or a refugium to breed copepods, a large copepod population and no large fish as predators. Also use this list to make sure they are all compatable with one another. Each of the classifications they use are really a basic guidelines. I have had supposed "reef safe" fish that loved to eat SPS polyps. Others don't nessisarily eat the corals but they nip and irritate the corals. A good place to start is to use the general classifications as a starting point. Then research the boards on how reef safe these fish really are and what types of biotopes the posters are keeping them in. You can't be certain on any fish but you can make an educated guess.

Beautiful Fish everyone. I'll have to post some pictures tonight if I can get my cheap camera to cooperate. Rob, Do you have all of those angels in one tank? I seem to remember you had a pair of the Lamarck's Angelfish in your current tank but didn't notice the other angelfish. The blue color markings on your male Lamarck's Angelfish looks like its actually glowing. Beautiful fish!

I can relate to trying to take pictures of the color of these LED's. The blue is so intense it almost looks purple in the photo's I take. When you say the difference between night and day do you mean the LEDs are brighter or dimmer? On the Dino front I saw a detailed thread last night on RC about strategies to fight them. Everything you all are doing sounds like the latest treatment except the water changes. I believe they said unlike fighting cyano you should avoid any unnessisary water changes (besides replacing water from siphoning them off). Something about the trace elements feeding them. I might have misunderstood but it's worth reading up on if you are fighting them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You can do it one of two ways. I used a rubbermaid container to build my forms in. Basically you put sand in and create voids to put your concrete in. You can start with two piles of concrete on the flat bottom of the container. Add sand all around them up to top of the concrete. Then add two more piles a little closer making sure this concrete matches the layer below. Add sand again. Repeat steps until you have one continous arch of concrete. The second way is to build it laying on it's side. Fill the container halfway up with sand. Dig out a U shaped indentation in the sand. Pour your concrete in the indentation and let it pile up above the sand. Gently por sand over all of the concrete to keep it moist and hold it's shape. The key with arches is to make sure the arch is at least 3" or so thick and your mix is relatively dry. Dryer allows you to mound it up. I used the first method for my cave. The sides have lots of holes and shelves to make it more natural looking. The shelves also allow for plenty of places to mount coral. In your 75 you would have plenty of room for a large arch, a cave rock and then some. Do a search on YouTube for man made live rock. There are tons of video tutorials for ideas. Most importantly have fun and make your rock exactly the way you want it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I can understand being hesitant to make it yourself, I was too before I did it. My concrete skill level ranks somewhere between a trained monkey and a caveman. Seriously though it is very easy and you get exactly what shapes you want. My total cost of materials was $30 and I only used a third of it. Spend the cash you save on something else for your tank. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I agree with the others, you should make it yourself. Its VERY easy and cheap to do and you can make whatever shapes you want. I was able to get incredibly pourus rock that is riddled with caves and holes. My fish love swimming in and out of it and it is exactly what I want it to look like. Plus if you buy it already made you will have to pay to ship concrete to your house. Here is the video I used as a guide and it worked perfectly. I used portland cement, chrushed oyster shell for chicken feed from Southern States and water softener granules. Once the water softener pellets disolve you can literally pour water right through this rock. Check out my page link below to see what it looks like, can't tell it from live rock. You do have to let this stuff cure but I can tell you I couldn't be happier with the result. Here is the video I used as a guide

I would think that if you try to repair the impeller with something then it might throw it out of balance. That in turn could cause other issues possibly more expensive than an impeller. Your best bet is to clean your impellers and pumps frequently to prolong their life. It's always good to have a spare on hand just in case you need one. Hope this helps.

That retrofit looks great. When you get things cleaned up you should give us a FTS to see the difference between the stunners and your old actinic. I can't help you on dino tips, sorry. You might want to wait longer than a week to see what your spectrum looks like on your bulb. I am the opposite of you inthat I like a more blue light for my tank. I put on some Hamilton 10k bulbs and they looked great when I first fired them up. It took almost a month to totally burn in and by that time it was very white to my eyes.

Great pictures of that acro crab! They are fun to watch defending their home. I had a big fat wrasse that was itching to make a meal out it. He would poke his nose into the acro until the crab bit it's nose and the wrasse would shoot out of there like a rocket. It wold leave the crab alone for a while and then try again. When I fed my tank it would hold one claw out trying to grab at any food floating in the water column. I never saw mine come out of the coral head like yours, maybe it was the wrasse that kept him there. I had a friend that had a crab come in on a colony that was good for about a month. It didn't strip off flesh like Coral Hind described but plucked off polyps like it was at an all you can eat buffet. The colony was about 1' in diameter and attached to a large piece of rock. We had to take the entire colony out and dip it because the crab was in the center. It was a real pain to get him out of there because it took two people to get the colony out. By the time it was finally out it had killed about 1/8th of the colony, mostly the braches near it's nest. I'm not trying to say that these crabs are all bad as obviously there are many that are not. I love to have diversity in my tanks and it was really cool to have a small acro crab in my tank. Once they start munching on my corals they got to go though.