Mountaineer

May be the ballast if its not the bulbs.

Here's a pic I took this evening. Not the best picture, but you get the idea.

I figured it out, but after the "edit time". Hopefully a mod can help me out with the images above.

I have coralline algae growth, but I covered most of the foam with resin and crushed coral and sand. I'll try to get display pictures up this weekend.

Bear with me as this is my first WAMAS forum thread and I am having a bit of trouble getting the img tags to work on the images. I've always admired those that had an aquascape that included a live rock arch. I've tried to achieve this effect with strategically placed rocks in the past, but never really got the look I was going for. Until now....... I was inspired by Anthony Calfo's most recent edition of Coral Propagation, which by the way has more information about things other than coral propagation than it seemed about coral propagation. I also had inspiration from a few threads on Reef Central about using pond foam. So with these two ideas I developed my live rock arch for my new 265 gallon aquarium. (Build thread is coming, but if you haven't noticed I've been too busy lately to frequent the forums as much as I would like, but it is coming.) First I made a frame out of schedule 40 PVC pipe. http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r102/ww...on/IMG_4163.jpg Then using black zip ties I strapped dry rock to the frame. http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r102/ww...on/IMG_4165.jpg http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r102/ww...on/IMG_4167.jpg http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r102/ww...on/IMG_4170.jpg With all the rock on the frame. http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r102/ww...on/IMG_4171.jpg The gaps were filled in with black pond foam. http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r102/ww...on/IMG_4173.jpg I then carved the foam to remove the smooth surface and added fiberglass resin (Bondo) and while this was wet applied live rock rubble, crushed coral, and sand. The purpose of the foam and resin is to fill in the gaps. This is up and has been running right now in my 265 gallon display since October and It looks amazing. I will try and get some updated pictures up soon. The bottom piece of PVC is just for support and rests on the bottom of the tank then covered with substrate to be hidden. __________________

I use the DART as the return for my 265 as well and it feeds a manifold with 4 returns. I have it scaled back just a bit.

If you remember, it might be helpful for others if you can post pics of each side of the seal and how you put them in.

I had a hippo in a 90 gallon that didn't look that bad, but maybe earlier stages of that. It looked like it was driving itself into the crevices of rocks and really getting scraped up. I fed it well, soaked foods in Vita-chem, zoe, and zoe-con as well as garlic. Tried everything. I recently set up a 265 gallon tank and moving it over there improved the condition dramatically, although I feel there are areas that are scarred. Curious to know how much swimming room is available in your tank and how big the fish is. I feel that mine outgrew the tank and I left very little room with the additions of live rock taking up a great deal of the space. I hope your fish improves. A great resource is Kelly Jedlicki and you can find her at the Marine Depot forums in a section titled "Disease, Health, and Wellness" http://forum.marinedepot.com/Forum10-1.aspx

I had one leak right after install once and it turned out that I needed to replace the gasket. It was a brand new bulkhead and gasket, but for some reason it did not seal properly. I used a new one and no problems at all. Because you have 2 of them doing this I question if this is your problem, but thought I would offer it for something to consider.

Congressional Aquarium in Rockville. Not right on the red line, but maybe you could take the bus from the metro rail stop to there.

I guess I should have added that for Ocellaris you should expect the hatch to occur at about day 7-9. You will know when you seen many of them change from the initial orange color to eggs with silver tips. The time is dependent on things like water temp IME, but you should be seeing a new batch of eggs every 21 days or so and careful observation will clue you in to when to expect the hatching. ......and GOOD LUCK! Lots of fun, lots of work, but it is so worth it and rewarding when you pull it off. If you pull the tiles sooner, do like traveller said and have them aerated well, but with experience I find taking them out the night before yields a higher percentage of success at least for me.

DO NOT PULL THE EGGS until the night before they hatch! If you take them out too soon they will likely not make it. The male will tend to them and keep them moving. The night before they hatch you move them to a hatching aquarium (5-10 gallons) and you must be prepared to feed live rotifers then. An excellent resource is the book CLOWNFISHES by Joyce Wilkerson. I am a new WAMAS member currently residing in the Chesapeake/Virginia Beach area. I am moving back to the area soon and will be more active on this forum in the coming weeks. I would be more than happy to anyone with interest, but this book is a must read for anyone interested in breeding clownfish.