Jan

You have another option here. Take it to a true professional. I took my Genicanthus Watanabei to Pender vet hospital. The exotic pet division. The vet there knew her stuff about marine fish. She did a culture and told me to continue my course of antibiotic treatment. This was one that had been treated for ich and then developed Uronema Marinum. I think her name was Torres, not sure. It's somewhere on here in a thread. all total under $80.00. I think BRK consults with her too. Good luck!!!

Ok. I called ecotech they are sending me a replacement for the wet side and a free shipping return label for this one. All free of charge. Amazing!!! I guess that's what $400+/head gets you.

Yes, that's the very first thing done before they were placed on the glass. I have two. One works great. the other is noisy.

What do you mean switch up the wet side and wet side problem? My husband thought the reason the propeller didn't spin as easily on the noisy one was because of the ceramic spacer. It wasn't in all the way when we got it. He fine tuned it all and it worked a little better. I have not used the rubber pad that goes on the glass. I didn't think I needed it.

oops, you're not Ron.

I did this after the 24 hour break in. Have done it twice already each time giving it another adjustment period. No go. I soaked them as soon as I got them home. This is when we heard a difference between the two and figured it needed a break in period. Hubby, Mr. tinkerer, took them apart, cleaned them, put them back together. One was running faster after his cleaning. The other ran a little faster, but the noise has not gone away. I'm thinking maybe something happened to one of them and maybe that's why the guy sold them? I dunno. Stinking thinking, I know.

I have 2 Mp40's. One of them sounds like an airplane about to take off. Is this how they usually sound? The other one is super quiet. These aren't new. I purchased them from another reefer. Mfr date on both is late 2013. One of the pumps was a little stiff compared to the other. They've been on and running to 4 days now. The one that isn't stiff is quiet. They were very clean when I got them. I soaked, scrubbed and rinsed just in case. Nothing is clogging anything that I can see.

I have to agree that getting the fish to eat is most important. As I mentioned in my last post I've been there with Watanabeis and it is not easy. I had to force feed my male. And after treatment, force feeding and everything looked fine, he still died. I suspect the catch method was illegal and very harmful. I have no proof. Watanabaies are deep water fish. Unfortunately the catch methods aren't always what they should be for Watanabeis. They endure more stress than most fish. Some are collected using cyanide, some are vented (their swim bladder is punctured so they can equalize fast) and there are some that are brought up properly with several stops along the way allowing for proper equalization/adjustment to the atmosphere. Can you post a picture of him? Did you see him eat at the LFS? How big is he? The larger the more difficult to adjust and treat. 6" or more should remain in the ocean, IMO. Did he have any areas where he had missing scales? An injury that looks like a line where his swim bladder is. Did you notify your LFS or where ever you purchased him from that he has not been eating? I think I lost 3 that I'd gotten from Liveaquaria to no fault of mine. There's a thread somewhere showing me attempting to feed the large male I'd gotten from LA. I was desperate. I got rid of the ich, but he was too weak and died. Only the females survived. Watanabeis are an expert level fish. They are difficult to acclimate.

Have you tried any treatment yet? Why not start with hyposalinity? It's easy, costs nothing and it's natural. "Over a period of about 36-48 hours (use 48 for most Tangs, Butterflyfishes, Lionfishes, Puffers, and Dwarf Angelfishes) lower the specific gravity through water removal and RO/DI or distilled water additions. Watch pH and temperature of the added water -- match that of the water being replaced. Use only a refractometer to measure the specific gravity. Lower the specific gravity to a reading of 1.008 to 1.009 sp. gr. units. Hold it there throughout the treatment." Here's the rest - http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/fish-diseases-treatments/23131-hyposalinity-treatment-process.html

Watanabeis are very sensitive to copper. When I was dealing with a couple I'd gotten from LA that ended up getting ich the supervisor of the Wisconsin facility of LA told me to dose 1/2 copper and full dose of formalin. Formalin every other day. My situation was extreme. I think I'd already lost like 3 watanabeis they'd sent me by the time these two developed ich. It was horrific. The copper and fromalin worked. Keep up with water changes. Ammonia builds up fast in hospital tanks with treatment.

This is exactly how they reproduce. Amazing!! I want one.

It dissolves organic matter and when place in the sun will bleach the rock white. Peroxide is a cheap and easy way to become a blond.

Hydrogen peroxide and water 50:50. Let it sit in the solution for 2 days. Rinse with ro/di water. It is best to let it sit in the sun but if that's not an option then maybe getting a sunlamp would work? I was just following a marine biologist on another site as he did this. He soaks the rocks and drys it in the sun twice. Says it takes about 2-3 weeks to complete and get all the rock bright white. Safer than acid.

I think with a submersible heater enclosed and power head the temp would be fine. It can't go outside.

Cheaper than a 100 gallon Rubbermaid, I think. http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dpets&field-keywords=flexable+folding+fish+tank+with+cover&rh=n%3A2619533011%2Ck%3Aflexable+folding+fish+tank+with+cover

Great for a QT.

Perfect!! Rob gave me a peristaltic pump. Thank you, Robert.

How does the RO/DI water stop and start? Do I need an ATO running into the stirrer? How is the kalk water flow regulated into the sump?

I really miss you guys. Thank you so much, Tom!!! The reef community here is, um, hmm...very different. Definitely not WAMAS. You are very unique, one of a kind for sure.

Title says it all. Thank you!

Your mg is 50ppm below what it should be.

Try increasing your mg to 1350-1450. LPS and shrooms like magnesium. When my lps and shrooms start to shrink or don't expand as much my mg is usually low. I keep it at 1650 to keep bryopsis out. wont hurt to try.

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-10/sp/feature/ http://www.wetwebmedia.com/

http://nautilusaquaticsohio.com/aquarium-myths-exposed-the-size-of-the-aquarium-the-size-of-the-fish/

I moved to Boca Raton in August, Dave.