Origami

Almost, but it shows me that you've just about got it. I think there may be some error in the wiring that you're showing. See that top view of the relay on the left? See how it has a diagram printed on it? I think this probably corresponds to the pinout of the device. If I had to guess, the two columns of three pins (the smaller ones) correspond to the two switches. One column is one switch. The other column is the second switch. As drawn, the pin closest to the pins that drive the coil is the common lead for the switch. The one farthest away from the coil is the NC contact as you've shown in your diagram. If you'll notice, in my diagram, signals don't cross between the relay switches. For example, the 120VAC signal transits only one switch, not both. In your diagram, it looks like the 120VAC crosses the relay from left to right - across columns, and therefore across switches. Here's an update based on your components shown. The relay looks to be an Oko K41DS2C12. It's a 12VDC relay with a 160-ohm coil. Contacts are rated at DC 10A at 28V, and AC 10A at 250V. The diode shown is a flyback diode that is intended to clamp transients across the switches when coil current is interrupted. It can be just about any diode such as a 1N9001 or even a 1N4001. I've probably got some lying around someplace, but you can probably find either at Radio Shack for next to nothing. The direction of the diode is important. Normally there's a black band or stripe on the end known as the cathode. You want to put this end on the positive side of the 12V supply and the other end on the negative side. You can probably get away without it, but using it will be more reliable.

Here's a modified idea, Chris, that uses your 12VDC wall wart, two float switches, and the DPDT relay that you linked to above. You'll have to get enough information about the pinout of the relay to be able to determine the wiring, but I can tell you this from looking at the component: If you'll notice, the relay has 8 flat, blade-like pins. This relay is configured to be a DPDT, or double-pole double-throw. That means that there are two switches (double pole) inside that switch a common signal between one of two different contacts (double throw). This means that each switch has three pins associated with it or, since there are two switches in this relay, six pins total. Each switch has a common pin and two other pins. Of the other two, one is "normally open" and one is "normally closed." When the relay is not energized (that is, there is no power applied to the coil), the "normally closed" pin is electrically connected to the common pin, and the "normally open" pin is not. This relationship is reversed when the relay is energized. Now, I suspect that the six pins that are arranged in one manner on the body of this relay correspond to the connection points for these two switches. The remaining two pins on the outside of the relay undoubtedly correspond to the two pins of the coil. In the modified design, one relay switch is used to latch the relay state and the second is used to provide 120VAC to your solenoid. If you try to match your components against the drawing, I think you may be able to figure out what goes where. If not, I'm willing to help however I can. If you find another implementation that you want to consider, post it and I'll be happy to take a look. You'll notice by the way that I don't use the small relay that you currently have on hand in the modified design.

One float switch? You're still going to get a second, I suppose? (Since you mentioned above that you needed a design using two float switches - one at the top and one at the bottom, I'm assuming that you're planning on getting another.) Since you've got parts, let's start this again with an understanding of what you have on hand. Do you have a relay or not? If so, who is the manufacturer and what is the part number (it may be printed on the relay). This is useful as it will help me get data on the coil voltage, contact ratings, and pinout. I assume that the 12V power adapter is a wall-wart (transformer cube that plugs into the wall)? What specs are printed on it (namely the output voltage and current rating)? Do you have access to other parts or are we talking about sticking with Radio Shack inventory? Where were you planning on getting a second float switch? Also, if you found one online that you think is close, post a link and I'll tell you what I can about it.

Chris, here's a thought that uses a 120VAC SPST NO (normally open) relay configured to latch when SW_bot (which is the float switch monitoring for low water level) is closed and to reset when SW_top is opened. Both float switches are oriented the same. That is, both are closed when the float is not floating. "Pump" could just as well be your solenoid. H and N are 120VAC Hot and Neutral respectively: The circuit state as drawn represents the state when the reservoir is full. In this case, both SW_top and SW_bot are open, as are the relay contacts. Consequently, the relay is not active and is open. As the water level in the reservoir is drawn down, SW_top closes thereby connecting AC neutral to one side of the relay coil. However, the other side of the coil remains open and the relay is not active (contacts are open). When the water level reaches below the lower float switch, SW_bot is closed. This establishes a connection between AC hot and the other side of the relay coil. The relay is now charged and the contacts close to latch the relay in this state. The "pump" is then turned on since it now has power applied to it. As the water level in the reservoir rises, SW_bot opens. However, since the relay contacts are closed, the relay is latched in this state and water continues to fill the reservoir. When the water level reaches SW_top, the float switch monitoring the top of the reservoir, SW_top opens. This removes power from the relay coil and the relay contacts open. At this point neither end of the relay coil is connected to AC hot or neutral. The circuit is now in the original state. One downside for this notional design is the proximity of AC to the water. You have to make sure this design is sealed well. Similar implementations are possible using low voltage DC but you would probably need a DPST (double pole single throw relay) and a DC (wall-wart) power supply. Topology is similar except that the "pump" would be controlled by the second, separate pole of the relay. The wall wart would supply power between the H and N leads and you might (if it weren't built into the relay) need a flyback diode placed across the relay coil to clamp inductively induced voltage spikes when the coil is de-energized.

Darn it. Sorry Chris, I had read Geofloors post before.... Let me see if I've got an idea for a relay implementation.

Here's an idea that I think does what you're asking. Realize that if the top switch fails, your ATO reservoir will overflow. Because you want basically a refill function to be controlled by your ACIII, I don't see any reason why you shouldn't use both discrete switched inputs that are available to you. This solution uses both. I'm not an experienced ACIII programmer yet so here's a lame attempt at some pretty simple code. Keep in mind, I may have this wrong.... //Let SOL# be the power to the RO/DI solenoid assigned to address D01. //Switch1 is the first discret input to the ACIII. It is connected to a float switch that is open when the float is floating, and closed when the float is not floating. //Switch2 is similar to Switch1. //Switch 1 signals max level in the ATO reservoir. //Switch 2 signals min level in the ATO reservoir. SOL# = D01 If Switch2 CLOSED Then SOL ON (If the water is low, then turn the solenoid on) If Switch1 OPEN Then SOL OFF (Once the reservoir is filled, turn the solenoid off)

BJCM, you can increase alk using balanced additives like kalkwasser, a 2-part regimen, or using a calcium reactor. You can also increase alk (in an unbalanced way) using other additives such as baking soda and commercial products like Seachem's Reefbuilder. Your parameters are fine in my opinion. Balanced alk for 400 ppm calcium is a little less than 5.5 dKH but I woudn't run my system that low. I wouldn't dose carbon (vodka, vinegar, or sugar) with the higher alk levels if you have an SPS tank, but you've not indicated either. There is some experimental evidence that suggests that higher alk levels promote faster coral skeletal growth.

You mean, how to wire the float switch? What components are you planning on using? A float switch is typically a magnetic reed switch which either closes or opens in the presence of a magnetic field. There's a magnet in the float that as it raises and lowers, opens or closes the switch. Many float switches are configurable with respect to their behavior. That is, you can flip the float over and reverse the behavior of the switch. You could also just flip the whole switch over and get the same behavior, I suppose. You can tie float switches in series to get the desired behavior. For example, two float switches can be set inside your sump so that one is an inch higher than the other. They can both be set up so that they open when they are floated in high-water and are closed when they are in low water. If both switches were wired together and triggered power to a top-off pump, then the pump would operate when the water level were lower than both float switches. Why the top switch? Well, the top switch, in this case, is a safety measure. It is, in most cases, always closed because the water level is below it and pump operation is dictated by the state of the lower float switch. However, should that lower float switch fail to actuate (say a snail got on it and interfered with the sliding of the float), the second switch would be there to prevent your topoff pump from just pumping everything at its disposal into your tank. Similarly, you could add a 3rd switch that triggered when your topoff water reservoir was drained. This would, if wired correctly, could cut power to your pump if there was no water to pump (possibly saving your pump from burnout). Another consideration is whether to wire 120VAC through these float switches or to use low voltage DC or AC through the floats and to trigger a relay that would handle the regular household line voltage. I am more comfortable with the latter. Though more complicated, it keeps you from having DIY 120VAC wiring in contact with your tank and, possibly, top off water. This would probably not apply if you were using your ACIII to do the job. To wire the float switches to your ACIII, you'll (nominally) have to use the low-voltage inputs that are available one one of the interfaces I think it's the "Input Connector." This connector, as I recall is already wired so that they detect a connection between one of the inputs (Input #1 or Input #2) and the Ground wire. Wire up your float switches in the series configuration that give you the desired response, and tie the two leads of the overall assembly between one of the inputs and the Ground pin. This should give you the ability to detect the need for top-off water and trigger a pump's operation. For example, let's say that you have three float switches and that you're going to put 2 of them in your sump (one higher than the other), let's call them Switch 1 and Switch 2, and one in your top-off container (called Switch 3). Let's also say that you want to operate your top-off pump when the water level is lower than both the two switches in the sump (#1 & #2), but not when the top-off container is empty (that is, the water level is below Switch 3). In this case, you would configure Switches #1 and #2 to be closed when the water level was below them, and Switch #3 to be open when the water level was below it. You would then wire all three switches in series, daisy-chaining them. It doesn't matter which wires you tie together, just that they're chained. The final assembly then has two unconnected wires remaining. One comes from Switch 1 and one comes from Switch 3. These two wires would tie into the ACIII Input Connector at the Input #1 and the Ground pins. By reading Input #1, you'll be able to sense the state of the three switches. If the overall circuit is closed, you operate your top off pump; if it's open, you don't operate your top-off pump. This is probably complicated to put in words like this. I'll likely do something similar as I bring my ACIII on line over the next few weeks. (I do have to make the decision on whether or not I even want my ACIII to control top-off or just have a separate system doing that job to distribute the risk, but that's another story.) In any case, I hope this helps some.

There are latching relays that do this, I believe. But it sounds like you've got it covered now, right?

I found this site some time back and just came across it again today in my favorites. I thought that I'd pass it on as a resource: http://www.nationalfishpharm.com/fish_diseases/bacteria.html

"Doing wrong?" I think you did great. The focus and color are good, and the composition is very interesting.

+1 Discontinue kalk for now. It adds BOTH calcium and alkalinity. Either correct this through water changes, or get ready to dose a calcium supplement (without alk) while letting your alk fall a bit. Calcium supplements include supplements like calcium chloride (bulk), Seachem Reef Advantage Calcium, Kent TurboCalcium, ESV Calcium Chloride, and others.

Awk. As a side dish with crab, no doubt.

On the eyes... http://blueboard.com/mantis/bio/vision.htm Excerpt: "The colors we see depend on the wavelength sensitivities of the visual receptors within our eyes as well as the wavelengths of light that enter our eyes. In color vision, light excites different classes of photoreceptor cells, containing different visual pigments, and the brain compares their differential light absorption. Thus, in bright light, we humans see a colorful world because the cone cells in our retinas have three visual pigments, with maximal sensitivities in the blue (~425 nm), green (~530 nm), and red (~560 nm) regions of the spectrum and the differential responses of these cells enables color vision (1a). But our own colorful world pales in comparison to the world of the mantis shrimps. These Crustaceans must be considered the champions of color vision, since their eyes have more than ten different classes of visual pigments. "The eyes of these Crustaceans have eight classes of visual pigments for detection of color, as well as additional classes of visual pigments for sensing the polarization and distribution of light. In addition, they have the ability of depth perception with a single eye, and sample their environment with many intricately coordinated eye movements. "

Pretty sweet, Tim. He looks like a happy (well fed) camper. Gotta love those eyes. #6 would be a nice avatar....

Beautiful, Johnny!

Neither could I. But, from the looks of things, it's got an airport, a harbor, development, and some pretty nice beaches....

From the looks of Hamilton Island, Australia, it's not at all uninhabited.... Wouldn't it be nice to be able to dive there everyday?

You'll be more than fine with a 2x4 infrastructure. I had 2x4's under my 90 at one time. That's a load of over 1000# when the rock and sand is considered. Pressure treated wood is no stronger than the base wood. The term "pressure treated" refers to the process where preservatives are forced into the wood grain using both vacuum and positive pressure. One thing that you may consider, though" The chemical preservatives that are often used in treating wood contain copper. While not in contact with your water, it's better to go into it knowing this than to find out later.

They're HQI and can run on an HQI or an electronic ballast, according to HelloLights.com. Marine Depot also says that they can run on a pulse start (M80) ballast.

Probably less than you think. I would lean toward what YBeNormal would advise, but I'd think that you could use 1/2" or 5/8" plywood with little or no beam structure required. My 180 sits on a frameless stand built around 3/4" plywood.

Much better numbers, Laura. Now, if you stick with using a balanced additive in accordance with demand, you should be fine over the long haul.

Sorry for your loss, Billy.

Laura, you may want to do a little reading. Here's a great link with a lot of other links to articles that will teach you a little bit about aquarium chemistry: http://archive.reefcentral.com/forums/show...threadid=102605 And, particularly, here's a good article that's on that page linked to up above that gets into just what you're asking about: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/feb2003/chem.htm BTW, my advice to you is: Don't dose if you're not going to test as it leads to situations like what happened with your calcium. As for your question: Corals use both calcium and alkalinity (bicarbonate) to build their calcium carbonate skeletons. Without any additives or water changes, if you were to monitor them, you would find that your calcium and alkalinity levels would fall as they were used this way. The rate at which they would fall depends upon how fast things are growing in your tank. If you perform regular water changes, you are probably constantly replenishing these ions. If the demand is high enough, it could become expensive to try to maintain your calcium and alkalinity levels through water changes, however. This is when hobbyists begin to dose these ions back into their tank. Some use two part to start, moving to kalkwasser when demand becomes high enough to make two part expensive or inconvenient, ultimately moving up to calcium reactors (with or without kalkwasser supplementation) later on. The approach you take depends upon the demand your tank has - it's a balanced situation; you don't just dose for dosing's sake. Because both calcium and alkalinity (and magnesium, as well) are used in the formation of coral skeletons, there's a BALANCE that we strive for between these ions. For example, with an alk level of 10 dKH, the balanced calcium level is closer to 430 ppm than the 800 ppm that you had in your tank. And, balance for 500 ppm of calcium is upwards of 20 dKH (which I wouldn't recommend). Please understand that these are just average numbers and there is some flexibility (a range) that you can call a practical balance. To address your question, stability, though desirable, is not the only thing you need to strive for. You need to strive for the right levels and an appropriate balance in the chemistry of your system. Once you get things where they need to be, if supplementation is required (because of demand), then balanced additives such as 2-part, kalkwasser, or calcium reactors are they way to go. Hope this helps.