CHUBAKAH

I'll pull the reducers out before I turn the pump back on just in case it does go up a lot. On tank stands, anything more than your standard framing 16" on center is over kill.

I guess I should start going in to threads where people are over building their stands, and watch out for fellow carpenters. LMAO Just kidding guys!

I hear that type of crab is wonderful with a lil Old Bay!

Are you guys still scurd about the stand? You should be more scurd about the house your in then. I've been building houses for 28 years, and I haven't had one fall yet! :wink:

At $2.40, I made this change and BAM! The velocity is hitting the back of the tank. I'm still going to change the return from the tank to the pump to 1 1/2" PVC, and I would have done that tonight, but realized a few minutes ago I forgot three couplings. I'll head out to Home Depot tomorrow AM and make the rest of the changes.

I used the calculator myself, and I know the exact lengths and came up with 12.8 myself, so I think that is not far of if at all. I'm going to head off to the store now and try both up sizing my return to the pump, and downsize the jets at the tank, and I'll report back later this evening with my results. I really do appreciate all of the feedback from everyone! You guys and gals rock!

Actually the four return lines are in the floor of the tank approx 3" from the front of the tank. The other answer is NO, I did not put ball valves in, as I wasn't even thinking I would have to adjust flow having all of the turns, and sizing the same. Of course I realize now I screwed up. I still think I can do that, as I did leave myself some room. Thanks a lot for your advice as well. At about two dollars to check this theory, I like it the best.

davelin315, So if I understand you correctly, I can leave the same bulkheads, and just increase the pipe diameter on the return back to the pump, and your thinking this is going to make a significant change? I'm sure I could go up to a 2" pipe if it will make a change, I just have no experience to know for sure.

Yes, and the flow is dramatically increased, but you already knew that. I was considering This device to cure the problem, but it looks as though thats going to give me the option to have two lines of two heads each. I'm sure it will be better than what I have now, but my question remains how much flow do I really need to be successful? Is there some kind of rate I am looking to accomplish?

That's just it though. I have no idea what my target flow is supposed to be, or have any idea. I just knew from the get what I have isn't much at all.

It seems there is some confusion as to how this is exactly set up. That's partly my fault for not adding any side view pictures. There are four returns from one 1" line, however they are all at the front side of the tank in the bottom. Those are the four you see in pic 2 with unions all connected. The two bulkheads you see in pic 1 and 2 at the bottom back of the tank backside, are the overflows back to the pump. Pic three shows the front of the tank with the four , we'll call them jets. They are approx 3" off the bottom of the base of the tank. The two returns in the back of the tank are approx 4" off the base of the tank. In other words all 6 bulkheads are with in 1" of each other in height. Outside of the one at the far right in the pic, all of the resistance should be exactly the same, and TBH that is pretty much what I have. I'm sure if I was to remove the additional piece I added in to drain the tank at the far right, and got rid of the tee and changed it to a 90, all four returns would be the same flow. The top two bulkheads that are seen in the pictures come together, and veer of to the left are the returns that go back to my 100 gallon sump, not seen in the pictures, and there IS NOT a ball valve on that line, to end that confusion as well. I also have no problems with my sump exhaust and returns, just this closed loop system. All of that seems to be A OK. As far as the stand, It could never move side to side because at the base of the tank, or top of the stand has a 3/4" piece of plywood screwed and glued every 6". I also have angled braces at the sides not shown in the pictures which I already mentioned in another reply. For the guy who would not stand near my stand, I challenge you to come by and try and move it. I've mentioned before I am a general contractor. You guys who do the DIY stands crack me up. The floors in your homes don't have 1/10th the bracing your tank stands do. From all of the posts I have read here, and another board I think I just need to change the right side to match the left, and replace my pump with something stronger. The question is, how much stronger? I am planning to have mostly softies, but I also want to add in a few of everything at some point, but that's a new thread for you guys.

Thanks, I'll have to let Sean over at Fin and Feathers know his design sucks, because I followed it to a tee. More money down the drain.

There is another brace you can't see at the side, but that is a whole other subject. There will be some additional work to the stand, as well as the room. The base of the stand is about 42 inches from the ground. I'm guessing by the responses so far there isn't anything that drastically stands out?

Yes that is the pump. Any thoughts?

I knew someone was going to pick up on that. Yes they were open at testing. I was about to pull it all apart and check for some kind of blockage is why they are off now. I then figured I would come upstairs and start a thread to see if someone saw something way off before I did.

Thanks in advance for taking a look. I

I can also help if that does not work out. I am a general contractor, and have been in the business 28 years. No charge to look as long as it can be during the day during the week when I am in the area. I work the entire NOVA area.

Count me in on a group buy as well if it happens.

Ranson WV by way of Ashburn VA, by way of San Jose CA, but way of Bryans Rd MD. I'm done moving now. Former 20 year member of the Pacific Coast Cichlid Association, now with WAMAS to get my Salt Water grove on. Thanks for having me, Mark

I apologizes.

100 gallon reef 100 gallon sump

Nine months ago is when I decided I was going to go reef, and knew just about nothing about it. Just about everything I know now has come from here and one other board from just searching for articles on certain things. All of it really does seem pretty simple in theory after you know it, but to someone, as I'm sure we can all relate to who has never done it, it all seems very overwhelming. The one thing that does strike me as kind of weird, EVERYONE you talk to has a different way to do things, which adds to the confusion at times. I appreciate your feedback Rascal! Also a huge thanks to Treesprite for allowing me to invade his thread and get some answers along the same lines of his problem. Regards, Chewy

Well on my way home tonight I decided to stop by Fin and Feathers to explain what was going on to the guy who told me how to build it. He is telling me exactly what you have said here, and that I need two pumps to accomplish my needs. Seems he thought I was ONLY talking about the closed loop system, and was not addressing the sump at all. I think I am on the right track with what I need to do, and it seems the only thing I am missing outside of a few new plumbing parts is a new pump to return the water back to the tank. The current pump is going to be in a loop with four exhaust, and four return bulkhead fittings, all located near the bottom of the tank. The two drains I have near the top will still return to the sump, but I am needing to add in two other returns to return water from the sump. To answer your question about tubing, I am using 1 inch schedule 40 PVC. The other question is yes, I am using a check valve, which of course will move from the closed loop side to the sump side. I'm guessing I should probably add in a second one, and just leave the one I have so no water [or sand] ever goes back to the pump. Is that right, or not needed? So now my question is, what am I going to need in the way of a pump to return water from the sump to the tank, and how large should the lines be? That I could use advice on. How many GPH should I need, and do you have a link for a suggested pump? Now I'm really feeling like a tool, and the reason I waited 9 months to post. Thanks in advance guys and gals! Chewy

Rather than start a new thread, if you don't mind I would also like to get some advice on a similar problem I am having. Before I begin, I think this is the first post I have made here, as I have just been reading and learning from others. I've kept fish for more than thirty years, but this is my first venture over to the Reef side. Please excuse my ignorance on this subject. From what I have read here, and the advice I was given by Fin and Feathers, I decided to go with a closed loop system. I have a 100gal acrylic Tru Vu aquarium which I drilled in the front bottom with 4 1" bulkheads. To those I am using a pump which if I remember correctly is 1250GPH. AT the backside near the top I drilled two more holes with 1" bulkheads, and am gravity feeding back in to the sump. I barley have the ball valve open and my tank over fills pretty dramatically if I even go half way on the valve. I just ordered two more bulkheads to add in two more lines which I plan to run independently of the other ones. I'm curious if there is some type of formula as to what is needed? Any other advice for the return is much appreciated. Chewy