JMsAquarium

Wow, I love how your tank looks.

Nice concept.

Harvey Salts in Baltimore has them. Peladow calcium pellets 50 Lbs bag and Mag pellets 50 Lbs bags both for under $20

Justin is right. Fortunately for you, it's a neasy fix. Just flip the main display tank around 180 degrees. Put the front vewing panel facing the wall and the back panel facing towards the room and voil

Very nice setup Mike.

Hi Jan, I use two Brute trash cans from Rubbermaid. They are available at Home Depot and the likes in 10, 20, 32 gallons and more. I have them ad different heights so I can empty one into the other without having to use a pump. The top can collects the RODI ans the line from the RODI unit is connected to a Float valve so it won't overflow when filled. The bottom can is used to mix water and salt.

Your anemone will be just fine. It may take time to digest the shrimp, but it won't hurt it.

Sometimes zoas tend to close up for a while when introduced to a new environment. Unless you notice recession or other health issues, I would not worry too much. Keep an eye on them.

I was thinking exactly the same. It will be your best and easiest solution.

It all depends on how much Alk and Calcium your reef is consuming. Many folks use a CA reactor when tuth to be told, they don't really need it. Basically you will have to determine your consumption. Also, what needs to be understood is that a calcium reactor is more about alkalinity than calcium. My recommendation would be: Use this calculator: Dosing calculator Step 1 the Magnesium part. Magnesium is also an important element in skeletal growth as well as in balancing properly CA and ALk. I try to maintain my levels at around 1300 PPM. Also Use the calculator above in order to add the proper amount of MG supplement, to reach your target, and until you have regular target levels readings. Bear in mind that many salt brands are rather depleted in MG levels. You may thus need to dose regularly until you can maintain your targeted MG levels. Step 2 The Alkalinity part. Do not dose calcium yet. Set a target for your desired alkalinity, 8, 9, 10, or 11 DKH. Dose accordingly until you reach that level. Once you reach your target, stop dosing Alk. Then do daily testings, for example every evening, to determine your daily Alk consumption. Once you determine your daily consumption, dose again daily , but only the amount needed to maintain the target level. Step 3 The Calcium part. Do this only after having completed Step 2. Test your current calcium level. Once done, use the calculator above to determine how much CA you need to supplement in order to obtain a balanced level of CA to ALK (ex for my 100 gal systems, alk = 11 then CA = 439). Once you reach your target, stop dosing CA. Then do daily testings, for example every evening, to determine your daily CA consumption. Once you determine your daily consumption, dose again daily , but only the amount needed to maintain the target level. my $0.02

Very nice!!! and Welcome

That's not their norm. Usually they are pretty good ant replying.

Good choice. And their customer service is excellent.

Exactly :-)

A piece of egg crate on top of the baffle. You can find it easily at Home Depot, usually next to the lighting dept. They are made of plastic and come in 2 x 4 sheets. Extremely easy to cut pieces to fit your needs :-)

+1 on that. Make it a snug fit.

Here's what I did. Top shelf a refugium. Under it on the floor, a 100 gal Rubbermaid stock tank. Left shelf, a frag tank. A Maxijet 1200 pumps water from the sump tinto the refugium. Water overflows from the refugium into the frag tank and frm the frag tank into the sump. The main tank will be in another room upstairs. If you have the space you can easily accomodate your sump , refugium and whatever else in a room and your main tank in another one. As Tom and the others have mentionned, it is easy to do and do not use a pump to send water from the main tank to the sump. Let gravity do the work.

Unless you really want to use a glass tank for that, I would use brute trash cans.

Hehehe, you've gotta love Mother Nature . Well, that's the way it is, for the most (if not all) of the sps, the polyp extension occurs at night.

And her boyfriend

Nothing much new to comment on. Just a few changes and improvements. Lights are now 2 VHOs actinic 03 driven by an IceCap 660 and a 250W radium with an IceCap electronic ballast and a lumenarc III mini. Finished installing the electrical circuits, added an Neptune AC junior. Also got the bucketless water change up and running several months ago. I love that last part, just open and close a couple of valves, flip a switch, drop salt into the batch all in all about 5 minutes job. A few days later, same deal, open and close a couple of valves, and that's it. Repeat in a couple of weeks, that's it folks. Just a few pics. Bucketless waterchange system. Top can has the RODI, lower can mixes the batch. Frag tank shot This one is for Howard And this one for Hilary

Same as with Calcium, all corals consume Alk to grow. I supplement mine with Arm & Hammer baking soda. Here's a link to Randy Holmes-Farley recipe. An improved home made two part solution

I'd get rid of them with kalk injections, or scrapping them off the pumps, glass walls, wherever they are located. They will find their way out of the sump into your display tank sooner or later. They may be good filter feeders but not worth the risk. There are other beneficial filter feeders, such as feather dusters.

IMO centering a bulkhead matters when the hole it goes through is too big. Like, drilled for a bigger bulkhead. If it is the case, get a proper sized bulkhead and use reducers to match your plumbing. It is important that a proper sized bulkhead is installed through the hole. Also another common mistake is where the gasket gis placed. It has to be between the flange of the bulkhead and the tank. Not between the tank and the nut of the bulkhead.

Exactly!!!